The historic, rambling, corrugated tin building on the National Register of Historic Places is elaborately decorated and landscaped with authentic gold-rush relics. Sitting on the deck over the Chena, you can watch the riverboat paddle by or a group in canoes stop for appetizers and drinks from the full bar. For dinner, the cuisine is a cut above the area's typical steaks and seafood, and includes game you may not have tried, including reindeer and musk ox. Dishes such as the halibut Florentine and the fish chowder -- hearty, creamy, and flavorful -- make the most of the regional ingredients without trying to get too fancy. Many of the side dishes are a la carte, so, although main courses are generous, it's expensive to order a large meal. Besides, you'll want to save room for one of the exceptional desserts. They serve a big Sunday brunch, too.
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