The Turtle Club

Locals pack into this squat, windowless building, with its vinyl tablecloths and stackable metal chairs, for a menu with just a few famous selections: prime rib, lobster, king crab, and prawns. These are simple, burly meals with friendly, roadhouse-style service; the menu is printed on the placemat and vegetables are an afterthought from an indifferent salad bar. But when the beef comes, you know it -- the middle-size prime rib cut is over an inch thick and covers a large plate, an insanely large portion -- and the meat is tender and cooked right. The atmosphere is noisy and super casual; people laugh loud and don't worry about putting their elbows on the table or spilling a little beer. You won't run into many other tourists here, north of the city in Fox, but you do need reservations, and even with them, you often wait half an hour in the smoky bar or a narrow corridor. If this doesn't sound like fun, don't go; but if you get it, the place is energizing.

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