Oceans 211

First, know that the hands-on owner put in his apprenticeship at the venerable Oyster Bar in New York's Grand Central Terminal. It shows: The ground-floor bar has a Manhattan sheen, with a curving black marble bar and a long display case of featured wines. The menu (changed daily) is deceptively plain, the entrees listed only by their central ingredients -- halibut, Dover sole, wild salmon, snapper -- with unflowery descriptions of their preparation. The delights come with what shows up on the plate. One memorable dish was Pacific escolar crusted in Parmesan and served with marinated tomatoes and a purée of broccoli raab. You might have trouble getting past the delectable appetizers and the large selection (most nights) of oysters from the raw bar. Upstairs is a less cozy dining room that seats up to 70.

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