Fortaleza's main attractions are the beaches outside of the city, including the Morro Branco with its multicolored cliffs, the glorious sand dunes of Canoa Quebrada, and the stunningly beautiful and rustic Jericoacoara. The city itself has a small historic center that's worth a visit if you have a day to spare, but it's certainly not worth the trip by itself. The best way to get out and see the beaches is to head out on a day trip to Cumbuco or Morro Branco; both are only a short distance from Fortaleza. These beaches are playgrounds for adults and children alike. Buggy tours, sand boarding, sand tobogganing, parasailing, boat rides -- you name it and you can experience it, all under a hot tropical sun.
Canoa Quebrada is also within easy day-trip distance, but you may want to stay a day or two to get a better taste of the place. There are plenty of pousadas and restaurants here, and a small but active nightlife scene.
To enjoy Jericoacoara you need at least 3 or 4 days; getting there takes almost a day. This isolated beach community features Sahara-like sand dunes, stunning white beaches, plus a steady wind that makes it Brazil's windsurf capital.
Where to Stay -- If you decide to stay, the nicest pousada in town is Pousada Long Beach (Rua Long Beach s/n; tel. 085/3421-7404; www.longbeachvillage.com.br), which features a pool deck with a fabulous view of the beach, as well as large comfortable rooms and bungalows. Cost is R$180 (US$90/£49) for a comfortable room, and R$240 (US$120/£65) for a self-contained double bungalow. Pousada California, Rua Nascer do Sol 136 (tel. 085/3421-7039; www.californiacanoa.com), has simple but clean and comfortable doubles for R$70 to R$140 (US$35-US$70/£19-£38). The main street in town, Broadway, is a pedestrian cobblestone laneway chockablock with cafes, bars, and restaurants. The street remains active until early in the morning.
Getting to Jericoacoara -- There are essentially two ways to travel to Jeri -- the cheaper and quicker way is by bus or minibus along the state highways (except for the last little stretch across the sand). The trip takes about 7 hours. The agencies listed in "Tour Operators in Fortaleza," above, all offer this kind of transfer. Some have packages that include a 1- or 2-night stay. The other way is to travel by Land Rover, traversing the many beautiful beaches that lie between Fortaleza and Jeri. For this kind of tour, contact Hard Tour Ecotourism, Rua Francisco Holanda 843 ap .203 (tel. 085/3224-9300; www.hardtour.com.br), which offers both 1-day transfers, and multiday packages. On a 3-day trip, you travel by Land Rover to Jeri, doing a lot of off-road driving and stopping at scenic beaches such as Cumbuco, Lagoinha, Mundaú, and Baleia. In Jeri the next day, there are visits to the dunes and beaches and the famous rock with the hole in it (Pedra Furada). On the third day you travel back to Fortaleza by the main highway.
Keep in mind that Jeri remains a rustic spot -- no fancy hotels, and amenities are pretty basic. The best hotel is undoubtedly Mosquito Blue, Rua da Farmacia s/n (tel. 088/3669-2203; www.mosquitoblue.com.br), R$240 (US$120/£65) double. Less expensive but still comfortable is Recanto do Barão, Rua do Forró 433 (tel. 088/3669-2149; www.recantodobarao.com), R$150 (US$75/£41) double. Bring plenty of cash (in small bills), as ATMs are nonexistent and credit cards are rarely accepted.
