Balmorhea State Park
185 miles E of El Paso; 32 miles N of Fort Davis
One of the lesser-seen jewels of the Texas State Park system (and one of the smallest, at 45 acres), Balmorhea State Park, 9207 Tex. 17 S. (tel. 432/375-2370; www.tpwd.state.tx.us/park/balmorhe), is centered on a massive, 1 3/4-acre swimming pool that is fed by San Solomon Springs. It holds 3.5 million gallons of water at a fairly constant 74°F (23°C). Size aside, this is no ordinary pool: The water teems with fish, and the floor is covered in rocks. The Civilian Conservation Corps built the V-shaped pool in the 1930s, surrounding it with shady trees and a 200-foot circle of limestone and flagstone. Swimming is popular, as are snorkeling and scuba diving. You might see the occasional (nonpoisonous) water snake or turtle in it. A canal system crosscuts the park, leading from the pool to other areas, and providing a habitat for many native fish species, two of which -- the Comanche Springs pupfish and Pecos Gambusia -- are endangered. There are changing areas with showers and two diving boards at the pool, which is open daily from 8am until a half-hour before sunset. Next door, the Toyahvale Desert Oasis, 9225 Tex. 17 S. (tel. 432/375-2572), provides swimwear, snorkel rentals, and scuba equipment rentals and air fills from 10am to 6pm daily.
A reconstructed cienega (desert wetland) is another notable attraction in Balmorhea State Park. Located near the campground, the San Solomon Cienega is a good spot to look for native wildlife: You might see a Texas spiny soft-shelled turtle, a blotched water snake, or a green heron from the raised wooden platform, or spot a channel catfish through the underwater viewing window. A path system allows viewing of the fish, reptiles, and amphibians in the canals.
The park has 38 campsites, most with water and electrical hook-ups, for $11 to $17 a night, in addition to the $5 entrance fee. Additionally, there is a small motel on the park's grounds, with standard double rooms for $55 to $65 and kitchenettes for $70 nightly. For groceries, you'll need to head into town, as the gift shop at the visitor center stocks mainly souvenirs and books. The park is located 5 miles south of the town of Balmorhea on Tex. 17.
