Fort Worth natives aren't usually too impressed by anything too slick or haute, but this fine addition to the dining scene, in the elegant Ashton Hotel, has changed the way diners think about this cow town. The New American menu, with Asian and Latin accents, at 610 Grille, a sleek restaurant quietly decorated in soothing colors, is stellar. Dine on such creative dishes as beef stroganoff with morels in brandy-laced cream sauce or Chilean sea bass with a fresh crab and potato purée, tomato, and mandarin-orange chutney. The deceptively simple-looking roasted harissa chicken, served on a bed of Swiss chard and with a base of black-truffle potato rosti, is scrumptious. For an appetizer, the seared diver scallops and warm shrimp beignets, served on greens with mango salsa and crème fraîche, are not to be missed. The small but select wine list is, refreshingly, reasonably priced. Even if you're not staying at this fine hotel, make an effort to eat here, even if it's only for a rewarding breakfast.
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