Iguazu Jungle Explorer (tel. 03757/421696) operates a number of fast zodiac excursions. The Adventura Nautica (R$35/US$17/£9.50) leaves from the bottom of the Circuito Inferior and blasts up as close as driver and passengers dare to one of the big falls on the Argentine side. The Gran Aventura (R$70/US$35/£19) does much the same but starts 5km (3 miles) farther down the river, giving you a truck trip through the forest and a bit more time on the river; the Aventura Nautica is better value. The Ecological Tour (R$20/US$10/£5.40) begins at the Devil's Throat boardwalk above the falls. Passengers hop into rubber rafts and drift 2km (1 1/4 miles) downstream through the forest, then disembark and get trucked back to the visitor center. Please note that rates are approximate as they are calculated from the Argentine peso.

Getting There: From Foz do Iguaçu take the Porto Iguazú bus from downtown. Customs formalities at the border are minimal. Stay on the bus, tell the Customs officer who boards that you're going to the Parque Nacional and -- for citizens of the U.S., U.K., Canada, and Australia -- you'll be waved through without even a stamp in your passport. The bus then goes to the main bus station in Puerto Iguazú. Go to stall no. 5, where a bus departs every hour 7:40am-7:40pm for the 20-min. trip to the park. Including connections, total trip time from Brazil will be at least an hour. The bus from Brazil to Argentina costs R$3 (US$1.50/£.80), and the 1 from Puerto Iguazú to the falls costs R$5 (US$2.10/£1.05). A taxi to or from the Argentine side costs about R$80 (US$40/£22) each way. Getting Back: The bus from Parque Nacional to the Puerto Iguazú bus station departs hourly 8am-8pm. Once back at the bus station, go to stall no. 1 and catch the bus marked FOZ DO IGUAÇU back to Brazil.