What's New

France held its spot as the number-one tourist destination in the world this past year, with 78 million foreign tourists reported in 2006. Visitors are intrigued by France's glorious past as well as its cutting-edge cuisine, style, and fashion. In this section, we preview some of the latest developments in an ever-changing land. Note that because of a sour economy, there have been few new hotels, grand restaurants, and fabulous resorts opening. In fact, some upmarket choices have closed down because of lack of business. Don't despair, however, as most of the old favorites are still going strong for returning visitors to enjoy once again -- or for new arrivals to discover for the first time.

Paris

The hotel getting all the press is the provocatively named Hotel Amour, 8 rue de Navarin, 9e (tel. 01-48-78-31-80; www.hotelamour.com). It's centrally located just off the rue des Martyrs, currently the hippest street in Paris. Starlets and bright young things check in here. Walk up the steps to the bedrooms (there's no elevator), where the beds are incredibly comfortable (they come from the same company that supplies the Ritz). Expect to encounter an oddball charm. Comfort food, including steak frites, is served on-site.

The film Amélie made the Goutte d'Or neighborhood of Montmartre world famous, and thousands continue to flock to this up-and-coming sector because of it. Kube Rooms & Bars, 1-5 Passage Ruelle, 18e (tel. 01-42-05-20-00; www.kubehotel.com), opened as a result of the area's popularity, but is not your average overnight stay. The cube-inspired hotel boasts a reception area that was inspired by the architecturally controversial glass box in front of the Louvre. Rectangular beds are lit from below and appear to be levitated. Expect shag-covered sofas and faux fur throws. The Ice Kube Bar is made with -- you guessed it -- ice. Instead of room keys, guests are electronically fingerprinted.

After a $46-million renovation, the Musée des Arts Décoratifs has reopened in a wing of the Louvre, 107 rue de Rivoli, 1er (tel. 01-44-55-57-50), which is attracting thousands of new visitors after the release of The Da Vinci Code. The new museum is a dollhouse on a grand scale, where each room offers up treasures -- Napoleon's golden throne, fashion designer Jeanne Lanvin's purple boudoir, and the velvet-draped bed of a 19th-century courtesan. "The Splendor of the Courtesan's Room" was the first abode of Valtesse de La Bigne, an inspiration for Emile Zola's Nana about a prostitute who captivated Parisian high society.

In the shadow of the Eiffel Tower, the museum getting all the press is Jean Nouvel's sweeping Musée du Quai Branly, 37 quai Branly, 7e (tel. 01-56-61-70-00). With an exterior wall covered with 150 exotic plant species, it is devoted to the art of Africa, the Americas, the South Pacific, and Asia. In all, nearly 300,000 tribal artifacts are on parade in this $256-million project. During its decade-long construction, there were many scandals, such as when the museum's curator discovered that the terra-cotta figurines from Nigeria were stolen. Galleries stand on sculpted pillars that evoke totems. Nouvel said he wanted to "create something unique, poetic, and disturbing."

The long-closed Musée de l'Orangerie, Jardin des Tuileries, 1er (tel. 01-44-77-80-07), reopened its doors. The museum's 19th- and 20th-century works were relocated underground. Claude Monet's celebrated Nymphéas are displayed as the artist intended them to be -- lit by sunlight. The spacious oval-shaped galleries evoke the garden ponds at the artist's Giverny estate. Over the years we've come here many times just to gaze upon Marie Laurencin's Portrait of Mademoiselle Chanel in 1923.

It's had a number of roles in its long life, but today the newly reopened Jeu de Paume, 1 Place de la Concorde, 8e (tel. 01-47-03-12-50), is devoted to photography and video, exploring a world of images. It presents ever-changing exhibitions, many of them daringly avant-garde, and is one of the finest museums of its type in the world.

The Loire Valley

In the ancient city of Saumur, in France's château country, Les Terrasses de Saumur, 2 rue des Lilas, St-Hilaire-St-Florent (tel. 02-41-67-28-48), is a recently built hotel that is also one of the best bargains in the area. The best of its accommodations have private balconies overlooking the Loire Valley. Its best feature is a large outdoor swimming pool, and it also enjoys a parklike setting.

Normandy

Sixty-three years after D-day, the Normandy American Cemetery (tel. 02-31-51-32-00; www.abmc.gov) opened a $30 million visitor center earlier this year, dedicated to educating the more than 1 million annual visitors through photo and film exhibits, artifacts, interactive displays, and personal stories. The center is open year-round 9am to 6pm (closed Dec. 25 and Jan. 1), and admission is free.

In the ancient city of Caen, the closing of Le Dauphin shocked gourmets, many of whom drove here from Paris to dine. It's not in the same league, but Le Carlotta, 16 quai Vendeuvre (tel. 02-31-86-68-99), has filled in the gastronomic gap. With the renewed attention focused on this restaurant serving fresh seafood and French specialties, the menu has been remarkably upgraded in the past few months. Even the braised oxtail now comes with truffles.

Alsace-Lorraine

Call Chez Hansi, 23 rue des Marchands (tel. 03-89-41-37-84), so old it's new again. In the autumn of 2006, the gourmet press of France seemed to discover this place for the first time. Perhaps tiring of the more experimental versions of nouvelle cuisine, many residents of Eastern France are turning to the food of their childhood. In this district of France, and at Chez Hansi, that means heaping platters of sauerkraut, foie gras, and onion tarts. The women on the staff are clad in dirndls.

The Ardeche

In the northern Ardèche -- a land of hamlets, vineyards, shepherding, and hill trekking -- Lamastre has long been considered the most evocative village. The Château d'Urbilhac, route De Vernoux-en-Vivarois (tel. 04-75-06-42-11; www.chateaudurbilhac.fr), has been altered from its former days of upmarket glory and is now a more family-friendly and democratically priced retreat. Its high-ceilinged rooms (often furnished with antiques) and spectacular pool overlooking the valley of the River Doux are still intact, attracting visitors from all over the world.

Provence

In ancient Arles, known for its Roman ruins, Hotel de l'Amphitheatre, 5-7 rue Diderot (tel. 04-90-96-10-30; www.hotelamphitheatre.fr), completed a 2-year renovation program in 2007 and is now one of the most recommendable oases in town for the frugal traveler. The antique atmosphere of the building, dating from the 17th century, has been retained. Bright fabrics, new furniture, and modern fittings have made this once-tired address fresh and new again.

The big news coming out of Marseille is the restoration of Hôtel Le Corbusier, La Cité Radieuse, 280 bd. Michelet (tel. 04-91-16-78-00; www.hotellecorbusier.com). The original building was designed in 1952, by Le Corbusier himself, 2km (1 1/4 miles) south of Marseille. A husband-and-wife team spent a ton of money returning the hotel to its original condition, with the kind of spartan, functional design that Le Corbusier intended. Even so, this is not an address for everyone, but a curiosity for architectural buffs. A restaurant has opened on-site called The Architect's Stomach.

The French Riviera

In the chic resort of the Côte d'Azur, St-Tropez, two ex-pat Brits, John and Pauline Larkin, have opened a boutique hotel of charm and grace: Pastis Hotel-St-Tropez, 61 av. du Général Leclerc (tel. 04-98-12-56-50; www.pastis-st-tropez.com). A portside Provençal house has been renovated and transformed into this intimate enclave of comfort, with an eclectic decor that includes everything from framed albums of the Sex Pistols to Chinese armoires.

Languedoc

In the city of Toulouse, St-Claire Hotel, 29 place Nicolas Bachelier (tel. 05-34-40-58-88), is a government-rated two-star hotel that has undergone a complete renovation. Today it is one of the best value hotels of Toulouse, lying in the heart of the city. The hotel offers personalized service, provides a high level of comfort, is decorated in a homelike way, and is immaculately kept.

The Atlantic Coast

In the city of Poitiers, Le Grand Hotel, 28 rue Carnot (tel. 05-49-60-90-60), has been restored and has emerged as the finest hotel address in town. Though modernized, it has maintained its 1920s Art Deco architectural style. The location is in the heart of Poitiers near the Théâtre National de Poitiers.