Attractions

Exploring the Glaciers

Ask at the visitor center about the schedule for nature lectures, slide presentations, and guided walks -- and see the excellent Flowing West movie at the Alpine Adventure Centre, Main Street, Franz Josef (tel. 03/752-0793), or at Fox Heli Services, Alpine Guides Building, Fox Glacier (tel. 03/751-0866). It runs daily continuously from 10:30am and it will take your breath away.

The visitor center administer the alpine and tramping huts available for overnight hikers, and keep track of trampers and climbers as well -- it is essential to check conditions and register your intentions before setting out. The center's displays give a complete rundown on the formation of glaciers, the movement of ice, the mountains, the history of the region, and more.

Your sightseeing at the glaciers can be as costly or as inexpensive as your budget dictates. There are several options that can put a rather unfriendly hole in your budget, but these are among the most spectacular travel experiences in the world and are therefore worth every cent. If you'd rather, there are plenty of self-guided walks in the area, many of which give good views of the glaciers.

The silence of any fine morning in glacier country is ruptured by the frenetic buzz of helicopters. It's one of the best ways to see and appreciate the natural splendor of this area. Equally amazing are the guided glacier walk and the heli-hike, which combines both.

The choice of what to do may not turn out to be as agonizing as you think -- the weather could very easily decide for you. To say that the weather here is unpredictable is an understatement, and even when it appears fine and sunny on the ground, conditions up on the glacier may preclude a helicopter landing. If your time is short, take the first flight available lest you miss out.

Several operators offer glacier hikes. The Helicopter Line (tel. 0800/807-767 in NZ, 03/752-0767 in Franz Josef, or 751-0767 in Fox Glacier; www.helicopter.co.nz) is the biggest heli-tourism operator in New Zealand. Its most popular trip is the 30-minute twin glacier option with snow landing for NZ$275. Mention you saw them in Frommer's and you'll get a 10% discount when booking direct. Glacier Helicopters (tel. 0800/800-732 in NZ, 03/752-0755 in Franz Josef, or 751-0803 in Fox Glacier; www.glacierhelicopters.co.nz), has a 30-minute twin glacier trip with an 8- to 10-minute névé landing from NZ$270. They also give Frommer's readers a 10% discount when booking direct. Fox and Franz Josef Heliservices (tel. 0800/800-793 in NZ, 03/751-0866 in Fox Glacier, or 752-0793 in Franz Josef; www.scenic-flights.co.nz) also offers a comprehensive range of flights, with a 30-minute flight going for NZ$245. Remember that flight routes and snow landings are always weather dependent and at the pilot's discretion.

Another option that everyone raves about is the heli-hike, which you can do with either the Helicopter Line or Fox Glacier Guiding (tel. 0800/111-600 in NZ, or 03/751-0825; www.foxguides.co.nz). If you have deep pockets and love adventure, set NZ$395 aside for Fox Glacier Guiding's Flying Fox Helihike. They fly you to a high glacier level to spend 3 1/2 hours exploring spectacular ice formations. The helicopter then returns to pick you up. It's suitable for all fitness levels, but does require some agility.

There are less taxing options, like guided glacier walks, for families and the less fit. Fox Glacier Guiding has both half- and full-day options on Fox Glacier. An expert guide will lead the way, chipping steps in the ice for you; you'll go up into the icefall, walk among the crevasses, and listen to the deep-throated grumble of the moving glacier. Hobnailed boots, waterproof parkas, heavy socks, and a walking stick are provided. The Fox Trot Half Day Walk costs NZ$95 for adults, NZ$75 for children (16 and under), or NZ$273 for a family.

In Franz Josef, Franz Josef Glacier Guides (tel. 0800/484-337 in NZ, or 03/752-0763; www.franzjosefglacier.com) offers half-day hikes from NZ$100; a full-day glacier adventure from NZ$160; glacier valley ecotours from NZ$65 for adults, NZ$50 for children ages 6 to 16 (no children 5 and under); and heli-hike options from NZ$395. It also has a slower, more informative half-day walk for the less agile.

Last but not least, Mount Cook Ski Planes (tel. 0800/368-000 in NZ, 03/752-0714 on the West Coast, or 430-8034 at Mount Cook; www.mtcookskiplanes.com) offers a fabulous-value specialist experience. This is New Zealand's only fixed-wing glacier landing, and when you land up on the snow and the engines are switched off, you're in total silence. This makes for a very different experience compared to a helicopter glacier landing. The twin glacier excursion takes 50 minutes and costs from NZ$315. The 60-minute Glacier Magic trip costs from NZ$395. This one will give you fantastic close-up views of Aoraki/Mount Cook and Mount Tasman, from both the eastern and western sides of the Southern Alps.

Beyond the Glaciers: What to See & Do

If you don't have time to go to the glaciers, make time to visit the new multimillion-dollar Hukawai Glacier Centre, Cowan and Cron streets (tel. 0800/485-2921 in NZ, or 03/752-0600; www.hukawai.co.nz). Complete with a 10m-high (33-ft.) ice-climbing wall -- the only one in the Southern Hemisphere -- it offers a full interpretive glacier experience and a very nice cafe. It's a fabulous experience for all ages (climbing optional), and if it's too wet for glacier trips, it's a superb alternative. It's open daily in summer 9am to 7pm (last climb at 6pm), and in winter 9am to 6pm (last climb 5pm). Admission to the interactive glacier display costs NZ$20 for adults and NZ$7.50 for children. Ice climbing costs NZ$95 for adults and NZ$75 for children (14 and under), for 2 hours inclusive of all gear and instruction.

Skydive NZ (tel. 0800/751-0080 in NZ, or 03/751-0080; www.skydivingnz.co.nz) takes you up around the side of Mount Cook and over some of the most awesome scenery in the country. Then lucky you gets to jump 2,700m (8,900 ft.) for NZ$295.

Glacier Country Lake Tours, 64 Cron St., Franz Josef (tel. 0800/525-386 in NZ, or 03/752-0244; www.laketours.co.nz), takes cruises on nearby, mirrorlike Lake Mapourika. Bird-watchers will love this one, as the lake edge is home to some of New Zealand's rarest species. Photographic opportunities abound here, so make sure you have your camera ready. The scenery is beautiful. They operate daily at 9:30am, 11:30am, 1pm, and 3pm all year, with additional cruises at 5pm and 7pm from October through March. The ecocruise costs NZ$98 for adults, NZ$49 children (4-12), and NZ$245 for a family.

The West Coast's wet weather is great news for rafters; if you want to see how brave you really are, join Eco Rafting Adventures, 2087 Whataroa (north of Franz Josef) (tel. 0508/669-675 in NZ, or 021/523-426; www.ecorafting.co.nz), for an unforgettable day on otherwise inaccessible Grade IV and V rivers. You'll get there by helicopter, and multiday hike and raft options cost NZ$250 to NZ$1,500. It's your best chance to get into an untouched wilderness

Walkers and trampers should stop by either visitor center to collect Department of Conservation material on the numerous tracks in the area. The Copland Track is a popular overnight round-trip that gives you a glimpse of Westland's spectacular scenery, with the natural hot pools at Welcome Flat an added attraction. Rainfall in the area is high, so come well equipped and always sign in (and out) before undertaking any hike.

Another walk takes you to a seal colony at Gillespies Beach, a 21km (13-mile) drive from Fox village. Take Cook Flat Road-Lake Matheson Road from the village and follow the signs to the beach. The last 11km (7 miles) of the road are unpaved. Allow 3 hours round-trip.

If all this exercise seems positively tedious, why not take a quiet after-dark amble to Fox's mini glowworm dell? Wait until it's very dark, and keep quiet. There is a short track just off the main road opposite the BP gas station. There is a small charge for adults, but children enter free. The ultimate way to relax after all this adventure, though, is to soak in divine hot pools at the new complex, Glacier Hot Pools, Cron Street, Franz Josef (tel. 0800/044-044 in NZ, or 03/752-0161; www.glacierhotpools.co.nz), set in native rainforest. They have three lovely fern-enclosed public pools, three private pools, and lovely massage facilities; they're open from noon to 10pm (closed Dec 25). Admission to the public pool (for an unlimited duration) is NZ$23 for adults and NZ$16 for children (16 and under). Private pools (for 45 min.) cost NZ$40 per person. Massage rates range from NZ$80 (30 min.) to NZ$170 (1 1/2 hr.).

Diverting Detours: Lake Matheson & Lake Mapourika

Lake Matheson, 5km (3 miles) from Fox Glacier township, shows up on all the postcards, but what the pretty pictures don't show is the wonderful Lake Matheson Walk, an easy track around the lake that takes about 1 1/2 hours. You'll enjoy great views of Mount Cook (on the right) and Mount Tasman (to the left), and if you go to the lake before dusk, you can watch the mountains turn pink in the sunset -- along with plenty of other sightseers doing exactly the same thing. When the lake and air are still, you'll be able to get one of those famous photographs of the mountains perfectly reflected in the water. Café Lake Matheson is at the parking area where the walk starts; it's open daily from 7am to 5pm.

Lake Mapourika, 9km (5 1/2 miles) north of Franz Josef, is the largest lake in Westland National Park and deserves attention for its arresting reflections and setting. You can swim and fish, or opt for a peaceful cruise.