Attractions

Exploring the Glaciers

Ask at the two visitor centers about the schedule for nature lectures, slide presentations, and guided walks -- and see the excellent Flowing West movie at the Alpine Adventure Centre, Main Street, Franz Josef (tel. 03/752-0793), or at Fox Heli Services, Alpine Guides Building, Fox Glacier (tel. 03/751-0866). It runs daily continuously from 10:30am and it will take your breath away.

The visitor centers administer the alpine and tramping huts available for overnight hikers, and keep track of trampers and climbers as well -- it is essential to check conditions and register your intentions before setting out. The centers' displays give a complete rundown on the formation of glaciers, the movement of ice, the mountains, the history of the region, and more.

Your sightseeing at the glaciers can be as costly or as inexpensive as your budget dictates. There are several options that can put a rather unfriendly hole in your budget, but these are among the most spectacular travel experiences in the world and are therefore worth every cent. If you'd rather, there are plenty of self-guided walks in the area, many of which give good views of the glaciers.

The silence of any fine morning in glacier country is ruptured by the frenetic buzz of helicopters. It's one of the best ways to see and appreciate the natural splendor of this area. Equally amazing are the guided glacier walk and the heli-hike, which combines both.

The choice of what to do may not turn out to be as agonizing as you think -- the weather could very easily decide for you. To say that the weather here is unpredictable is an understatement, and even when it appears fine and sunny on the ground, conditions up on the glacier may preclude a helicopter landing. If your time is short, take the first flight available lest you miss out.

Several operators offer glacier hikes. The Helicopter Line (tel. 0800/807-767 in NZ, 03/752-0767 in Franz Josef, or 03/751-0767 in Fox Glacier; www.helicopter.co.nz) is the biggest heli-tourism operator in New Zealand. Its most popular trip is the 30-minute twin glacier option with snow landing for NZ$255 (US$181/£92). Mention you saw them in Frommer's and you'll get a 10% discount when booking direct. Glacier & Southern Lakes Helicopters (tel. 0800/800-732 in NZ, 03/752-0755 in Franz Josef, or 03/751-0803 in Fox Glacier; www.glacierhelicopters.co.nz), has a 30-minute twin glacier trip with an 8- to 10-minute névé landing from NZ$245 (US$174/£88). They also give Frommer's readers a 10% discount when booking direct. Fox and Franz Josef Heliservices (tel. 0800/800-793 in NZ, 03/751-0866 in Fox Glacier, or 03/752-0793 in Franz Josef; www.scenic-flights.co.nz) also offers a comprehensive range of flights, with a 30-minute flight going for NZ$235 (US$167/£85).

Another option that everyone raves about is the heli-hike, which you can do with either the Helicopter Line or Fox Glacier Guiding (tel. 0800/111-600 in NZ, or 03/751-0825; www.foxguides.co.nz). For NZ$330 (US$234/£119), Alpine Guides flies you to a high glacier level to spend 3 1/2 hours exploring spectacular ice formations. The helicopter then returns to pick you up. It's suitable for all fitness levels, but does require some agility.

Guided glacier walks are yet another possibility. Alpine Guides has both half- and full-day options on Fox Glacier. An expert guide will lead the way, chipping steps in the ice for you; you'll go up into the icefall, walk among the crevasses, and listen to the deep-throated grumble of the moving glacier. Hobnailed boots, waterproof parkas, heavy socks, and a walking stick are provided. The cost of the 3- to 4-hour trip is NZ$85 (US$60/£31) for adults; a full-day option is NZ$125 (US$89/£45); please inquire about their rather complicated kids' rates.

In Franz Josef, Franz Josef Glacier Guides (tel. 0800/484-337 in NZ, or 03/752-0763; www.franzjosefglacier.com) offers half-day hikes from NZ$95 (US$67/£34); a full-day glacier adventure from NZ$150 (US$106/£54); glacier valley ecotours from NZ$60 (US$43/£22) for adults, NZ$30 (US$21/£11) for children ages 6 to 15 (no children 5 and under); and heli-hike options from NZ$350 (US$248/£126). It also has a slower, more informative half-day walk for the less agile.

Last but not least, Mount Cook Ski Planes (tel. 0800/368-000 in NZ, 03/752-0714 on the West Coast, or 03/430-8034 at Mount Cook; www.mtcookskiplanes.com) offers a fabulous-value specialist experience. This is New Zealand's only fixed-wing glacier landing and when you land up on the snow, and the engines are switched off, you're in total silence. This makes for a very different experience compared to a helicopter glacier landing. The twin glacier excursion takes 50 minutes and costs from NZ$300 (US$213/£108). The 60-minute Glacier Magic trip costs from NZ$320 (US$227/£116).

Ice is Nice -- If you don't have time to go to the glaciers, make time to visit the new multi-million dollar Hukawai Glacier Centre, Cowan and Cron streets (tel. 03/752-0600; www.hukawai.co.nz). Complete with a 10m-high (33-ft.) ice-climbing wall -- the only one in the Southern Hemisphere -- it offers a full interpretive glacier experience and a very nice cafe. It's a fabulous experience for all ages (climbing optional), and if it's too wet for glacier trips, it's a superb alternative. It's open daily in summer 7am to 9pm and in winter 8am to 6pm; it costs NZ$25 (US$18/£9) for adults and NZ$10 (US$7.10/£3.60) for children. Ice climbing costs NZ$80 (US$57/£29) for 2 hours inclusive of all gear and instruction.

Beyond the Glaciers: What to See & Do

Skydive NZ (tel. 0800/751-0080 in NZ, or 03/751-0080; www.skydivingnz.co.nz) takes you up around the side of Mount Cook and over some of the most awesome scenery in the country. Then lucky you gets to jump 2,700m (8,900 ft.) for NZ$275 (US$195/£99).

Glacier Country Tours and Kayaks, 20 Cron St., Franz Josef (tel. 0800/423-262 in NZ, or 03/752-0230; www.glacierkayaks.com), has a 3-hour guided kayak tour on the mirrorlike Lake Mapourika for NZ$75 (US$53/£27). They also offer scooter hire, which is a fun way to get around the village.

Dave Hetherington at Alpine Trophies (tel. 03/751-0856) or Alpine Adventure Centre (tel. 03/752-0793; fax 03/752-0764), is the man to introduce you to a spot of guided hunting or fishing.

The West Coast's wet weather is great news for rafters; if you want to see how brave you really are, join Rivers Wild, Franz Josef (tel. 0800/469-453 in NZ, or 021/748-371; www.riverswild.co.nz), for an unforgettable day on otherwise inaccessible Grade IV and V rivers. You'll get there by helicopter, departing Franz Josef at 7:30am. There's also a range of multiday hike and raft options.

Walkers and trampers should stop by either visitor center to collect Department of Conservation material on the numerous tracks in the area. The Copland Track is a popular overnight round-trip that gives you a glimpse of Westland's spectacular scenery, with the natural hot pools at Welcome Flat an added attraction. Rainfall in the area is high, so come well equipped and always sign in (and out) before undertaking any hike.

Another walk takes you to a seal colony at Gillespies Beach, a 21km (13-mile) drive from Fox village. Take Cook Flat Road-Lake Matheson Road from the village and follow the signs to the beach. The last 11km (7 miles) of the road are unpaved. Allow 3 hours round-trip.

If all this exercise seems positively tedious, why not take a quiet after-dark amble to Fox's mini glowworm dell? Wait until it's very dark, and keep quiet. There is a short track just off the main road opposite the BP gas station. There is a small charge for adults, but children enter free.

Lake Matheson & Lake Mapourika

Lake Matheson, 5km (3 miles) from Fox Glacier township, shows up on all the postcards, but what the pretty pictures don't show is the wonderful Lake Matheson Walk, an easy track around the lake that takes about 1 1/2 hours. You'll enjoy great views of Mount Cook (on the right) and Mount Tasman (to the left), and if you go to the lake before dusk, you can watch the mountains turn pink in the sunset -- along with plenty of other sightseers doing exactly the same thing. When the lake and air are still, you'll be able to get one of those famous photographs of the mountains perfectly reflected in the water. Café Lake Matheson is at the parking area where the walk starts; it's open daily from 7am to 5pm.

Lake Mapourika, 9km (5 1/2 miles) north of Franz Josef, is the largest lake in Westland National Park and deserves attention for its arresting reflections and setting. You can swim and fish, or opt for a peaceful kayak trip.