Side Trips

Antietam National Battlefield

22 miles W of Frederick, 10 miles S of Hagerstown, 57 miles SW of Gettysburg

Antietam (or Sharpsburg to Southerners) is perhaps the saddest place you can visit in Maryland. A walk down Bloody Lane will send shivers up your spine -- especially after you've seen the photographs of the corpses piled up on this road. (Photos at Antietam were the first ever taken of a battlefield before the bodies were buried.) More than 23,000 men were killed or wounded here when Union forces met and stopped the first attempted Southern invasion of the North in September 1862. It is the site of the bloodiest day of the Civil War -- with more Americans killed or wounded than on any other single day of combat, including D-day. President Lincoln made a battlefield appearance shortly after the battle at Antietam to confront the Union's General George McClellan over his unwillingness to pursue the retreating Confederate army. Clara Barton, who founded the American Red Cross 19 years later, nursed the wounded at a field hospital here.

Today, the battlefield is marked by rolling hills and farmland, and attended by a visitor center, a cemetery, modest monuments, and the gentle waters of Antietam Creek. The mood is somber. Gettysburg has all the monuments and displays, but this is the place to come to consider the tragedy, rather than the triumph, of war.

Access Points -- The battlefield is on Maryland Route 65, a mile north of Sharpsburg (Exit 29 from I-70). For a scenic trip from Frederick, take Alternate Route 40, which goes through Middletown and then over South Mountain ridge, where the Battle of South Mountain occurred; then turn left on Route 34 in the town of Boonsboro; this will take you into Sharpsburg.

Fees -- Admission to the battlefield is $4 for adults, $6 per family, and free for children under 17.

Visitor Center -- Begin a trip to the battlefield at the visitor center, 1 mile north of Sharpsburg on Route 65 (tel. 301/432-5124; www.nps.gov/anti). It has exhibits, documentaries, a museum, a gift shop, and an observation room overlooking the battlefield. The staff provides maps, literature, and suggestions for routes to explore the battlefield and cemetery. Open June through August daily from 8:30am to 6pm, September through May daily from 8:30am to 5pm. Closed Thanksgiving, December 25, and January 1. Note: The battlefield officially closes 20 minutes after sunset.

Seeing the Highlights -- The battlefield's quiet hills and limited number of monuments make it a stark and silent contrast to the massive memorials of Gettysburg. The park service offers an 8 1/2-mile self-guided auto tour that can also be walked or bicycled. Tours on audiotape and CD are also available. Battlefield Guides (tel. 800/417-9596), similar to the guides at Gettysburg, are available to take groups or families for a 2-hour tour of the battlefield; reservations are required.

Be sure to see Burnside Bridge, which crosses Antietam Creek near the southern end of the battlefield. Georgia snipers stalled 4,000 Union soldiers for over 3 hours as the Union tried to secure this stone arch bridge. Another must-see stop is the observation tower over a sunken country lane near the center of the battlefield. This sunken road, now known as Bloody Lane, was the scene of a 4-hour encounter that ended with no decisive winner and 4,000 casualties. The graceful stone arches of Burnside Bridge and the harrowing sight of Bloody Lane are among the most memorable images of the battlefield. And don't miss Dunker Church, which figures prominently in a number of Civil War photos.

New in 2005 is the Pry House Field Hospital Museum (tel. 301/695-1864; www.civilwarmed.org), just a 5-minute drive off the battlefield. This imposing brick house served as Gen. George McClellan's headquarters during the battle. Several generals were treated here; the barn was also used as a field hospital. The museum is open May through August, daily 10am to 5pm. It's closed December through April, plus 2 days in spring and fall (check the website). Donations are accepted.

Every year on September 17, and on the weekend closest to the date, the anniversary of the battle is remembered with ranger-led hikes and special events. An Independence Day concert, featuring the Maryland Symphony Orchestra and fireworks, is held on the Saturday closest to the Fourth of July.

A Candlelight Remembrance -- On the first Saturday of December, Antietam National Battlefield is illuminated with 23,000 candles, one for each of those killed, wounded, or missing after the battle. People come from everywhere, willing to wait an hour or more, for the chance to drive past this sad but beautiful sight. Cars start moving through the park at about 6:30pm and continue until midnight or until all the cars have passed. The only entrance is on Route 34.

Biking & Hiking -- The wide-open fields of Antietam Battlefield beckon both hikers and bikers. The 9 miles of paved roads are good for bicycling. Some 10 miles of hiking trails have been marked with trail maps to give visitors a chance to trek into history. The Final Attack Trail opened in 2005; others are in the works. For maps, go to www.virtualantietam.com, call tel. 800/417-9506 or 240/217-3664, or stop by the visitor center.

Canoeing & Kayaking -- Antietam Creek, which flows the length of the park and then down to the Potomac, is an excellent novice-to-intermediate canoe and kayak run offering views of a small waterfall, Burnside Bridge, the ruins of Antietam Furnace, and the old C&O Canal aqueduct. River & Trail Outfitters, 604 Valley Rd., Knoxville (tel. 888/446-7529 or 301/695-5177; www.rivertrail.com), offers a variety of guided float trips down this scenic creek, as well as canoe and kayak rentals.

Where to Dine -- Because Sharpsburg is so blissfully noncommercial, you may find yourself wondering where to eat besides a fast-food restaurant along I-70. Fear not -- there are some excellent alternatives.

The closest dining spot is Shepherdstown, West Virginia, just across the Potomac from Sharpsburg on State Route 64. Shepherdstown is a small college town with numerous coffee shops and cafes along its main drag, East German Street. The Yellow Brick Bank Restaurant, 201 E. German St. (tel. 304/876-2208), serves lunch, dinner, and Sunday brunch in an old bank. The town's other fine-dining option is the Bavarian Inn, 164 Shepherd Grade Rd. (tel. 304/876-2551), on your right just after crossing the Potomac. It's a purveyor of excellent but expensive German fare at breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

Another post-battlefield option is Old South Mountain Inn, 6132 Old National Pike, Boonsboro (tel. 301/371-5400; www.oldsouthmountaininn.com), located in Maryland at the top of South Mountain ridge on Alternate Route 40 between Antietam and Frederick. It serves Saturday lunch, Sunday brunch, and dinner Tuesday through Sunday.

Harpers Ferry (WV) National Historical Park

22 miles SW of Frederick, 54 miles W of Baltimore, 55 miles S of Gettysburg

Though you can hardly tell today, Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, was a bustling industrial center from the 1700s until the 1930s, when it was hit by the double disasters of the Depression and a flood. It's perhaps best known for abolitionist John Brown's rebellion and the town's part in the Civil War.

On October 16, 1859, Brown -- already notorious from a bloody raid against slaveholders in Kansas -- enlisted 19 men to raid the federal arsenal at Harpers Ferry, intent on arming the nation's slaves and starting a rebellion. Frederick Douglass warned Brown that the arsenal, in a town wedged between mountains and the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers, would be impossible to hold with so few men, and, as Douglass had foreseen, the raid failed. Brown and his men captured the arsenal, but were unable to raise any significant number of slaves into rebellion. They were soon pinned in the arsenal's firehouse (later to be known as John Brown's Fort), and Brown was captured when U.S. Marines under Lt. Col. Robert E. Lee stormed the building. Brown was tried and convicted of "conspiring with slaves to commit treason and murder," for which he was hanged. His action polarized the nation and was one of the sparks that ignited the war. Harpers Ferry later witnessed the largest surrender of Federal troops during the Civil War; it also opened one of the earliest integrated schools in the U.S.

Today, Harpers Ferry National Historical Park is beautiful and intriguing, a delightful place to spend a day or weekend. Its narrow streets are lined with historic homes and restored shops that sell antiques and handicrafts. The National Park Service administers much of this tiny town. Historic exhibits focus on John Brown's raid, the town's industry, Storer College (an early African-American college), and the town's role in the Civil War, when it changed hands between the Union and the Confederacy eight times. Hills soar overhead and plunge down into the white waters of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers. Walkers will find pleasant places to stroll, as well as some strenuous hikes. Water-lovers will want to sign on for a rafting or kayaking run.

Access Points -- To get here, take Route 340 west from Frederick. You will cross the Potomac River Bridge (you'll see the town off the bridge to your right) into Virginia, and then about 3/4 mile later cross the Shenandoah River into West Virginia. The historical park's parking lot is about a mile past the Shenandoah Bridge, on the left.

Fees -- Park admission is $6 per vehicle, $4 per pedestrian or cyclist. The fee includes the shuttle bus and is good for 3 days.

Visitor Center -- Start at the Cavalier Heights Visitor Center, 1 mile west of Shenandoah Bridge, off Route 340 (tel. 304/535-6029; www.nps.gov/hafe). Leave your car in this parking lot (the park service has removed almost all parking from the lower town) and catch the shuttle here for the lower town. The helpful staff provides free town maps and information on ranger-led tours (available in spring, summer, and fall). The visitor center is open daily from 8am to 5pm, except Thanksgiving, December 25, and January 1. Shuttles run about every 12 to 15 minutes from 8am to 5:45pm (later in summer).

Seeing the Highlights -- Skip the hassles of parking and take the 6-minute shuttle ride from the visitor center. Once in the lower town, stop first at the information center on Shenandoah Street (if you didn't already get brochures and trail maps at the Cavalier Heights visitor center).

The John Brown Museum, on Shenandoah Street, offers exhibits and displays on the abolitionist and tracks the course of his raid, capture, and conviction. Hours for the museum are the same as the park's hours, and admission is included in the park entry fee. The Harper House is a restored dwelling that sits at the top of the stone stairs, above High Street. The oldest remaining structure in Harpers Ferry, it was built between 1775 and 1782 and served as a tavern for such notable guests as Thomas Jefferson and George Washington.

Walking, Hiking & White-Water Rafting -- If you're wearing sturdy shoes, make the short but moderately strenuous climb farther up the stone stairs, past the lovely St. Peter's Church, to Jefferson Rock. At this spot, looking over the confluence of the Shenandoah and Potomac rivers, President Jefferson called the view "stupendous," and said it was worth crossing the Atlantic to see.

If you don't feel like climbing the stairs to Jefferson Rock, you might enjoy a stroll over the walking/railroad bridge across the Potomac. The view of the river is worth the walk. On the way, you'll pass the old armory fire house, known as John Brown's Fort, where Brown and his men took their last stand. On the other side, you'll find the bottom of Maryland Heights and the ruins of Lock No. 33 on the C&O Canal.

Virginius Island, a long curl of land along the Shenandoah, is also worth a look. An easy stroll among trees and stone ruins, this was once a booming industrial center with a rifle factory, iron foundry, cotton mill, granary, and lumberyard. It's a silent reminder of what once was. The short history trail, about a mile long, offers some explanation of what remains, and the lovely flat site is a great place to rest or let the children run.

If you're ready for a strenuous hike, head over the railroad bridge to walk up the cliffs of Maryland Heights, one of the most spectacular views in the state. The hike can take 3 to 5 hours, but the view of Harpers Ferry and the confluence of the two rivers makes the effort worthwhile. The park service provides trail maps for the hike to Maryland Heights as well as to nearby Weverton Cliffs, which also boasts a very good view. If you're planning more than a day's hike, the Appalachian Trail and the C&O Canal join briefly and pass right by Harpers Ferry, on the opposite side of the Potomac, making the town a great stop on either route.

River & Trail Outfitters, 604 Valley Rd., Knoxville, in Maryland (tel. 888/446-7529 or 301/695-5177; www.rivertrail.com), offers half-day white-water rafting trips down the Shenandoah and Potomac, which pass by the town. Although this can be quite an adventure during high-water season (Feb to mid-Apr), most of the time it's a fun raft trip through beautiful scenery and a few rapids -- suitable for families. Guides share local history, legends, and corny jokes. Prices depend on the season, but generally run $55 to $95 per person. River & Trail also offers guided hikes up Maryland Heights, C&O bike trips, and cross-country ski trips in winter. Experienced paddlers can rent a canoe or kayak; lessons are available for every level.

Fishing is permitted in both the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers, but adults may require licenses; check with the visitor center.

Where to Stay -- Harpers Ferry is about 22 miles from Frederick, which has several lodging options. Closer to the historical park, the 50-room Comfort Inn, at Route 340 and Union Street (tel. 800/228-5150 or 304/535-6391; www.comfortinn.com), is about a mile from the visitor center.

Where to Dine -- Good dining options are limited. You'll see numerous cafes and sandwich shops along Potomac and High streets. The food is fine, but patience is necessary on a busy day; note that a sandwich or salad can cost $7 to $10. Stop early for breakfast or wait until later in the day to eat. There are also plenty of places to stop for a drink or an ice cream -- and the wait isn't as long.

Gettysburg (PA) National Military Park

34 miles N of Frederick, 50 miles NW of Baltimore

Here on the rolling green hills just north of the Maryland-Pennsylvania line, and in the streets of a tiny town that was home to a mere 2,400 people, some 160,000 brothers met in battle. For 3 days in July 1863, the 70,000 men of the Confederate Army faced the 93,000 Union soldiers under the command of Gen. George Meade. When the 3 days of fighting ended, the rebels had been driven back; some 51,000 were killed, wounded, or prisoners of war; and Gen. Robert E. Lee would never mount another campaign of such magnitude again. Most important, the tide of the war had changed. The battle would become known as the "High Water Mark of the Confederacy."

Today, the 20,000-acre battlefield is one of the most famous in the world, drawing people to its hills and valleys, beckoning them to pause for a moment before the long rows of graves in the cemeteries and monuments in the fields. They stop, too, to recall the 272 words of Abraham Lincoln as he dedicated the cemetery on November 19, 1863.

The park surrounds the small town of Gettysburg, which still bears war wounds of its own. Plenty of small privately owned museums display collections of firearms, uniforms, and other memorabilia of those dark days.

Certainly the busiest time to visit is the 3-day reenactment held every July 1 to July 3, when 350,000 people descend on Gettysburg. If you plan to come, make hotel reservations at least 8 months in advance -- and make dinner reservations before arriving. It may even be a good idea to come ahead of the reenactment in order to get a good look around, take a tour, and gain some historical perspective. Remember to bring a lawn chair and comfortable shoes.

Another popular event is Remembrance Day, held the Saturday closest to November 19, the anniversary of the Gettysburg Address. Weekends in spring and fall are perhaps the most pleasant times to visit. Schoolchildren flow in during the school year, and families keep the attractions filled all summer.

Getting There -- Take U.S. Route 15 north from Frederick and I-70. After about 30 miles, you'll cross into Pennsylvania; then take the first exit and turn left on Business U.S. Route 15 North. The visitor center is 6 miles ahead on your right; the town is just past the visitor center.

You've got to drive here -- and you've got to park. There are parking garages or lots on Race Horse Alley, at Middle and Stratton streets, and on Baltimore Street between the Jennie Wade House and the Tour Center. On-street parking is possible on most weekends. The museums and the battlefield have their own lots.

Fees & Hours -- Admission to Gettysburg National Military Park is free. The battlefield is open daily year-round: from 6am to 10pm April through October, and from 6am to 7pm November through March. The visitor center is open daily from 8am to 5pm (until 6pm in summer), except Thanksgiving, December 25, and January 1. The cemetery is open from dawn to dusk.

Visitor Center -- Stop first at the Gettysburg National Military Park Visitor Center, 97 Taneytown Rd. (tel. 717/334-1124; www.nps.gov/gett), which contains worthwhile exhibits and an interesting bookstore. It's also the starting point for a number of tours, including bus tours, licensed guide tours, and ranger walks. Rangers are glad to answer questions and provide maps of the hiking trails and the 18-mile self-guided auto tour, which hits all the major sites. For security reasons, backpacks and large parcels are not allowed in the visitor center. In fall 2007, a new center and museum will open 2/3 mile away, at 1195 Baltimore Pike; the old visitor center will be removed.

Seeing the Highlights -- Don't miss the two exhibits inside the visitor center, which offer good perspectives before a visit to the battlefield. The Gettysburg Museum of the Civil War contains a good collection of weaponry and uniforms from both sides. Look for the things the soldiers carried, including musical instruments, medical supplies, and personal effects. Admission is free. Also at the visitor center is the Electric Map, a 30-minute presentation. It's rather old-fashioned in this high-tech age, but still tells the story of those 3 days of bloodshed well. Sit high in the seating gallery to get the best perspective. Admission is $4 (but that could change when the new visitor center opens).

The Cyclorama, a 360-degree depiction of Pickett's Charge, the climactic battle of the Gettysburg campaign, closed in November 2005 for much-needed restoration. The 1884 painting by Paul Dominique Philippoteaux will return to public view in the new visitor center.

The battlefield and cemetery are the main reasons for a visit here. The Gettysburg National Cemetery gate is right across the street from the visitor center (until the center moves in 2007). Get a map at the visitor center, walk among the gravestones, and learn about the Union and Confederate soldiers now united in this place. The graves encircle the place where Abraham Lincoln gave the Gettysburg Address and where the Soldiers' National Monument now stands.

The battlefield is so large, the best ways to see it are by car, bike, or bus. Along the ridges and valleys of the park are more than 100 monuments, dedicated by various states to their military units who fought here. The largest and most often visited is the granite-domed Pennsylvania Memorial. Constructed of nearly 3,000 tons of cut granite, raw stone, and cement, the monument consists of a dome supported by four arched columns, topped by a statue depicting the winged goddess of victory and peace. Other monuments recall the bravery of the troops on both sides of the battle. Of the southern states, Virginia was the first to build a monument here. The Virginia State Memorial, dedicated in 1917, is topped by a brass sculpture of General Lee mounted on a horse. It's located where Pickett's Charge took place.

As you're visiting the monuments, look for the John Burns Portrait Statue. At over 70 years of age, this local constable and veteran of the War of 1812 asked Col. Langhorn Wister for permission to fight with the Union troops. Although initially mocked, he earned the soldiers' respect, fighting alongside Union regiments at Gettysburg before being wounded and carried from the field.

Other attractions -- Eisenhower National Historic Site, President Eisenhower's farm, overlooks the Gettysburg Battlefield. Eisenhower first came to Gettysburg as a West Point cadet, to study the battlefields. He and wife Mamie bought their 189-acre farm south of town; as president, he entertained world leaders here. Today, visitors can catch a shuttle at the battlefield visitor center to tour the home and walk the grounds. Admission is $5.50 for adults, $4 for teens, and $3 for children 6 to 12.

Gettysburg is dotted with small, privately owned museums filled with Civil War memorabilia. The best is the Schriver House Museum, 309 Baltimore St. (tel. 717/337-2800; www.schriverhouse.com), which relates the story of a civilian family caught up in the terror of those 3 days of battle. Visitors can tour the home, including the attic where sharpshooters were holed up. Admission is $7 for adults, $6.50 for seniors, and $4.75 for children 6 to 12.

Organized Tours -- Park tours are offered by the Association of Licensed Battlefield Guides (tel. 717/334-1124), which was set up in 1915 by Civil War veterans to ensure that visitors received accurate information about the battle. These guides can tell you about everything from troop movements to who built the Pennsylvania Memorial and how much it cost. A licensed battlefield guide will ride in your vehicle -- and will even drive -- to give you a customized tour. Guides are assigned at the visitor center on a first-come, first-served basis. A 2-hour tour costs $40 for one to six people. Groups and those with special needs should call ahead.

Gettysburg Battlefield Tours, 778 Baltimore St. (tel. 717/334-6296; www.gettysburgbattlefieldtours.com), offers battlefield tours in either air-conditioned or double-decker buses. Recorded, dramatized tours cost $20 for adults and $12 for children. Licensed battlefield guides lead some tours, which are $25 for adults and $15 for children. Buses leave from the visitor center; you can buy tickets there or at numerous locations around town.

There are plenty of free tours, too, offered by the National Park Service. In fact, there are more than 20 presentations in the cemetery and battlefield each day. These rangers' walks, talks, and tours vary -- some are brief, while others include up to a 3-mile hike with lots of detail about the battles. Contact the visitor center for details.

Where to Stay -- With several hotels in town and more along the main routes, visitors have plenty of options -- and Frederick lodgings are close enough, too. If you plan to attend the reenactment in July, reserve at least 8 months in advance.

There are two good choices within walking distance of the visitor center. The 109-room Quality Inn Gettysburg Motor Lodge, 380 Steinwehr Ave. (tel. 800/228-5151 or 717/334-1103; www.gettysburgqualityinn.com or www.qualityinn.com), just behind the visitor center, has outdoor and indoor pools, an exercise room, and doubles for $50 to $149. The 111-room Holiday Inn Gettysburg, 516 Baltimore St., at Pennsylvania Route 97 and Business Route 15 (tel. 800/315-2621 or 717/334-6211; www.ichotelsgroup.com), has an outdoor pool, fitness room, and doubles for $80 to $200.

Outside of town, the Quality Inn at General Lee's Headquarters, 401 Buford Ave. (tel. 800/228-5151 or 717/334-3141; www.qualityinn.com), overlooking the battlefield of Seminary Ridge, has an outdoor pool and doubles for $62 to $109. A number of hotels have been built on York Road (Rte. 30), including a Hilton Garden Inn, 1061 York Rd. (tel. 877/782-9444 or 717/334-2040; www.gettysburg.gardeninn.com), with rates of $79 to $139; and a Holiday Inn Express, 869 York Rd. (tel. 800/315-2621 or 717/337-1400; www.ichotelsgroup.com), with rates of $90 to $129. Both have indoor pools.

If you'd like to sleep in a bit of history, the Best Western Gettysburg Hotel, 1 Lincoln Sq. (tel. 800/528-1234 or 717/337-2000; www.gettysburg-hotel.com), is right on the town square and charges $94 to $350 double. Just down the street is the small James Gettys Hotel, 27 Chambersburg St. (tel. 888/900-5275 or 717/337-1334; www.jamesgettyshotel.com), with 12 suites for $135 to $250.

A Side Trip to New Market -- New Market calls itself the "antiques capital of Maryland." It's a delightful place to browse in the shops along Route 144 (Main St.) and to get a bite to eat. Even the street itself is an antique: The town, 6 miles east of Frederick on I-70 (Exit 62), was founded in 1793 as a stop for travelers along the National Pike. New Market is now listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Two weekend festivals are worth a visit. During New Market Days, in late September, the town celebrates autumn with local crafts, entertainment, and food. For Christmas in New Market, in early December, the town turns festive with carols, carriage rides, and visits with Santa. It looks especially pretty then, too.

Every shop is open on weekends, a number of them as early as 10am. Everything closes at 5pm. About half of the stores have weekday hours as well. The New Market Antique Dealers Association publishes a free guide and map, available around town or at www.newmarkettoday.com.

The antiques shops line Main Street (though some go around the corner a bit), offering everything from handmade furniture to estate jewelry. The New Market General Store, 26 W. Main St. (tel. 301/865-6313), feels like a bit of an antique itself, with its 19th-century country-store atmosphere, a variety of local goods, reproduction furniture, and a lunch counter in back.

Speaking of lunch, there are only a couple of choices besides the lunch counter. The Village Tea Room, 81 W. Main St. (tel. 301/865-3450), is a dainty little spot for sandwiches, soups, salads, and afternoon tea. It's open Tuesday through Friday from 11:30am to 3:30pm, Saturday and Sunday from 11:30am to 5pm. For an elegant meal, head to Mealey's, 8 Main St. (tel. 301/865-5488), a fine restaurant with Colonial-style dining rooms, stone fireplaces, and a menu full of American favorites. It's open Friday and Saturday from 11:30am to 2pm, Tuesday through Saturday from 5 to 8pm, and Sunday from 10am to 8pm.