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The swankiest restaurant in town is the Kenmore Inn Dining Room, which brags an extensive wine cellar. Claiborne's, 200 Lafayette Blvd. (tel. 540/371-7080), in the restored train station at the southern end of Caroline Street, provides good low-country Southern chow. Top Italian is the venerable Ristorante Renato, 422 William St. (tel. 540/371-8228).

I get my morning caffeine and pastries at Hyperion Espresso (tel. 540/373-4882), a college-town-style coffee shop at the corner of William and Princess Anne streets. The old-fashioned soda fountain still operates at Goolrick's Pharmacy (tel. 540/373-9878), on Caroline Street at George Street.

Brock's Riverside Grill, 503 Sofia St. (tel. 540/370-1820), at Lafayette Boulevard beside the river, is a pub-style joint with an outdoor bar where I slake my thirst after walking around the Historic District. In cool weather you'll find me tippling in the Blarney Stone, 715 Caroline St. (tel. 540/371-PINT [7468]).

Carl's Famous Frozen Custard -- My sweet tooth gets satiated at the famous Carl's, 2200 Princess Anne St. (no phone), which has been making frozen custard with the same machines since 1947 and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. The cones, shakes, and malts come in a choice of vanilla, chocolate, strawberry, and one other flavor. Carl's is open daily 11am to 11pm from mid-February through mid-November.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.