Dedicated Dive Boats -- In addition to generally having better equipment and dive masters, the dedicated dive boats tend to design their itineraries in order to visit the archipelago's top dive sites, particularly those around Wolf and Darwin islands. Most feature an average of four dives per day, although some days you may go down five times. Night diving is not allowed in the Galápagos.
Caution: Diving in these waters is not for beginning divers. There are often strong currents, cold waters, and limited visibility. Much of the diving is relatively deep diving. The payoff comes in the size, number, and diversity of large marine life. Due to the nature of the diving here, I personally recommend taking a boat with Nitrox facilities. If you are not already Nitrox certified, you can take a course onboard and dive with Nitrox tanks the entire time.
Not a Yachtie -- Travel by Sea Kayak -- Perhaps the most unique way to experience the Galápagos is with Row International (tel. 800/451-6034 in the U.S. and Canada; www.rowinternational.com), which offers multiday excursions in which sea kayaks are the principal means of touring and transport. Sea kayaks get you right down close to the action, and your encounters with sea lions and penguins become even more special. Accommodations are a mix of modest hotels and beach camping. Travel between the different islands is on small commuter planes or speedboats. An 11-day/10-night trip with these folks runs around $3,400 (£1,870) per person, not including airfare to Ecuador, to the Galápagos, or between the islands, nor the $100 (£55) national park fee.