Sacred source of the Ganges, the western part of Uttaranchal is where Hindu devotees come on mountain yatras (pilgrimages) to Badrinath, Kedarnath, Gangotri, and Yamunotri. Westerners tend to head for Rishikesh, said to be the "birthplace" of yoga. Today scores of garish concrete ashrams and temples draw visitors who seek out yogis and tantric enlightenment, as well as hippies and backpackers keen to contemplate life, the universe, and everything through an edifying cloud of hash smoke. Up in the hills, with staggering views of the vast Doon Valley and western Garhwal's Himalayan peaks, Mussoorie is the quintessential Raj-era hill station, but it gets crowded and detestable in summer (and on weekends), packed with honeymooning and vacationing domestic tourists who send the decibel level skyrocketing. In winter, however, much of its charm returns.
