La Berlocca

Frommer's Review

Enrico Reboscio has turned this old pie and farinata shop into an oasis of good food in a somewhat seedy section of town. Service can be a bit slow in these two tiny rooms of small, sturdy wooden tables under stuccoed ceilings, but the seasonal Ligurian menu marrying sea and garden is delicious. I've enjoyed such dishes as piccagge matte al pesto (chestnut pasta with pesto), taglierini neri con gamberi (black pasta with crayfish and ginger), stoccafisso accomodato alla genovese (stockfish with potatoes, onions, pine nuts, and tomato sauce), and filetto con mele, curry, e calvados (a beef filet in a curry made with apples and Calvados liqueur). There's a good wine selection, too.

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