Active Pursuits

Beaches

Stocking Island, in Elizabeth Harbour, faces the town across the bay, less than 1.6km (1 mile) away. This long, thin barrier island has some of the most gorgeous beaches in The Bahamas. Snorkelers and scuba divers come here to explore the blue holes, and it is also ringed with undersea caves and coral gardens. Boat trips leave daily from Elizabeth Harbour at 10am and 1pm. The cost is US$8 (£4) per person round-trip. However, guests of Club Peace & Plenty ride free.

If you'd like to go shelling, walk the beach along Stocking Island's Atlantic side.

The island, which used to be a private enclave, has a marine-activity center run by Dive Exuma (tel. 242/336-2893; www.dive-exuma.com) at February Point Resort Estates. Visibility is great in these waters, and there are many rainbow-hued fish to see. For a 3-hour trip, snorkeling, including all equipment, costs US$65 (£33). A two-tank dive goes for US$150 (£75).

Yachting types and other island visitors like to drop in at Kenneth Bowe's Chat & Chill (no phone number), a laid-back place that manages to be both upmarket and a local dive. Many of the fresh fish dishes are grilled over an open fire, and the Sunday pig roasts are an island event. The conch burgers are the best in the Exumas. But the seasonings? They're secret.

Boating

Landlocked Lake Victoria covers about .8 hectares (2 acres) in the heart of George Town. It has a narrow exit to the harbor and functions as a diving and boating headquarters.

If you come to the Exumas aboard your own boat, Exuma Docking Services, Main Street, George Town (tel. 242/336-2578), has slips for 52 vessels, along with water and electricity hookups. You can also stock up on supplies here, get fuel, and do laundry.

Through the Starfish Exuma Adventure Center (tel. 242/336-3033; www.kayakbahamas.com), you can rent Hobie Waves, high-performance sailboats that are easy to use. These stable, lightweight 4.5m catamarans are ideal for families, as they are simple to maneuver. Sailboat rentals, including Hobie Waves, cost US$75 (£38) per half-day or US$525 (£263) weekly. One-hour sailboat lessons cost US$70 (£35) for one to three participants.

If motorboats are more your speed, Minns Water Sports (tel. 242/336-3483 or 336-2604), based out of George Town, rents boats ranging from 4.5 to 6.6m for US$120 to US$210 (£60-£105) per day. With your boat, you can set out to sail some of the most stunning waters in The Bahamas, rivaled only by the Abacos. The best territory for recreational boating is the government-protected Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, stretching south from Wax Cay to Conch Cay, which has magnificent sea gardens and coral reefs.

Getting around the archipelago of the Exumas is very difficult unless you're a yachtie or a skilled skipper of your own rented craft. If you're not a sailor, your best bet is to call Captain Steven Cole in George Town (tel. 242/524-0524), and book a half-day tour for US$400 (£200) or a full-day tour for US$700 (£350). His Off Island Adventures (tel. 242/524-0524; www.offislandadventures.com) takes you to remote spots in the archipelago, including such exotic locations as White Cay, where parts of the Pirates of the Caribbean movies were filmed. You can also opt for a sunset or moonlight cruise. Day cruises usually include a stopover at a remote beach bar for cocktails.

Fishing

Many visitors come to the Exumas just to go bonefishing. Arrangements for such outings can be made at Club Peace & Plenty, Queen's Highway (tel. 800/525-2210 or 242/336-2551), or at Peace & Plenty Bonefish Lodge, Queen's Highway (tel. 242/345-5555). The Exumas offer miles of wadeable flats (shallow bodies of water) where trained guides will accompany you. Fly-fishing instruction and equipment are also offered.

Golf

The Four Seasons Resort Emerald Bay Golf Club, Emerald Bay (tel. 242/366-6800 or 358-4185), is one of the great oceanfront courses in all of the Caribbean. The par-72 Greg Norman design features 6 oceanfront holes and stretches a challenging 7,001 yards, yet was laid out to accommodate golfers of various skill levels. The course uses environmentally friendly seashore paspalum grass and finishes on a rocky peninsula with a panoramic view of the sea. There's also a pro shop. Greens fees are a steep US$115 to US$165 (£58-£83) for 18 holes (US$145-US$175/£73-£88 for nonguests) and reservations are required.

Kayaking

You can best appreciate some of the Exumas' most dramatic scenery from the peaceful perch of a sea kayak. In fact, many areas -- including mangrove lakes, rivers, manta ray gathering spots, and bonefish flats -- are too shallow for other boats. Don't worry if you haven't hit the gym lately. Anyone in at least average physical condition, from children to seniors, can kayak with a smile. Starfish Exuma Adventure Center (tel. 242/336-3033; www.kayakbahamas.com) rents sit-on-top kayaks for singles and doubles. Singles are US$75 (£38) per half-day, US$100 (£50) per day, and US$200 (£100) per week. Doubles run US$95 (£48) per half-day, US$150 (£75) per day, and US$225 (£113) per week.

For more adventure, book one of Starfish's daily guided kayak trips. You don't have to spend the whole time paddling. During half- and full-day excursions, lunch and beverages are served, and the price covers all gear, including snorkeling equipment. You may end up watching a blizzard of fish swarm a shipwreck, searching for sand dollars on a deserted beach, snorkeling into a sea cave, or finding out about bush medicine while you hike along a nature trail. Guided trips begin at US$70 (£35) per hour for adults and US$56 (£28) for children.

Another good outfitter is Ecosummer Expeditions (tel. 800/465-8884), whose guides are especially skilled at exploring Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park.

Scuba Diving

Surrounding the Exumas, fields of massive coral heads, eerie blue holes, and exciting walls covered with marine life attract scuba divers. Many excellent reefs are just 20 or 25 minutes away from the George Town area, so long boat rides don't cut into your underwater time.

For scuba divers, the great attraction here is the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. It draws scuba divers to its 453 sq. km (175 sq. miles) of sea gardens with magnificent coral reefs, flora, and fauna. Call your hotel to ask whether it offers a hotel/dive package, or try Exuma Scuba Adventures (tel. 242/336-2893) at Peace & Plenty Beach Inn for information about scuba-diving excursions. A two-tank dive costs US$150 (£75).

Snorkeling

The best bet for snorkeling is found in the beautiful waters off the coast of Stocking Island. Boat trips from George Town depart for the island twice daily. You can also rent snorkeling equipment for US$10 (£5) per day at Minns Water Sports (tel. 242/336-3483) in George Town. A US$50 (£25) deposit is required.