Introduction to Georgia's Barrier Islands

Georgia's barrier islands extend along the Atlantic coast from Ossabaw Island near Savannah all the way down to Cumberland Island, near Florida. Although some have been developed, others, such as Cumberland and Little St. Simons, still linger in the 19th century. Some of the islands are accessible only by boat.

This 150-mile-long stretch of Georgia coast is semitropical and richly historic. The scenic Georgia portion of U.S. 17 goes past broad sandy beaches, creeks and rivers, and the ruins of antebellum plantations. The major highlights are the "Golden Isles" -- principally Jekyll Island, Sea Island, and St. Simons Island. Cumberland Island, the newest National Seashore, is still under development.

Brunswick is the gateway to the Golden Isles. Sea Island and St. Simons are just across the F. J. Torras Causeway (which passes over the famous Marshes of Glynn, immortalized by local poet Sidney Lanier). Jekyll Island is south of town, across the Lanier Bridge, then south on Ga. 520 (large signs point the way). Together they form one of the prime resort areas along the Atlantic coast.

The islands became world-famous for their Sea Island cotton, grown on huge plantations supported mainly by slave labor. The last slaver, the Wanderer, landed its cargo of Africans on Jekyll Island as late as 1858. The importing of slaves was by that time illegal and the crew was promptly arrested. Without a large labor force, the plantations languished and finally disappeared in the post-Civil War period.

In the late 1880s, the Golden Isles got into the resort business when a group of Yankee millionaires discovered Jekyll Island. They bought it for $125,000 and built "cottages" here with anywhere from 15 to 25 rooms and a clubhouse large enough to accommodate up to 100 members. Until 1947, when second-generation members of the Jekyll Island Club sold the property to the state of Georgia for $675,000, the Millionaires' Village was so exclusive that no uninvited guests ever set foot on the place -- even invited guests were limited to visits of no more than 2 weeks. Many of the cottages are open to visitors today, and all the attractions that drew the wealthy are now public property.

Sea Island was purchased back in 1927 by Howard Coffin (he already owned another "golden isle," Sapelo Island), who built a causeway from St. Simons to reach the 5-mile-long barrier island. Then he set about developing what has become a world-famous resort, The Cloister, which opened in October 1928.

The Golden Isles are ideal for naturalists, with miles and miles of private secluded beaches, plus acres of ancient forests. More than 200 species of birds are sighted locally, so birders flock here, especially to Little St. Simons. Many islands conduct year-round guided nature walks, where locals explain the coastal environment and you can see salt marshes and wildlife.

Temperature and climate make the islands a year-round destination. Spring arrives early in March, with air temperatures ranging from 50° to 80°F (10°-27°C) and water temperatures at 66°F (19°C). Summer is hot, although the heat and humidity are moderated by coastal breezes. Temperatures range from 72° to 90°F (22°-32°C), with water temperatures at 80°F (27°C) -- ideal beach weather. Fall arrives in mid-October and is marked by clear days and low humidity, with temperatures averaging 68°F (20°C). Winter is brief and mild, with daytime highs in the 60s (teens Celsius), lows in the 40s (single digits Celsius), and water temperatures averaging 50°F (10°C).

If all this weren't enticement enough, the Golden Islands are also the gateway to the Okefenokee Swamp Park, an hour's drive to the west. Called the "land of trembling earth," this swamp is one of the most forbidding yet one of the loveliest places in America, covering some 412,000 acres. Boating excursions into the swamp allow close encounters with alligators. The centerpiece is a 111-acre lake that attracts water-skiers, anglers, and boaters. On the west side of the swamp is the Stephen C. Foster State Park, offering cabins and campsites along with signposted nature trails and canoe rentals.