Waterton Lakes National Park

190 miles (306km) NW of Great Falls; 342 miles (551km) S of Edmonton, Alberta

Waterton Lakes National Park and Glacier are in many ways one park separated by an international boundary. The terrain is much the same. But Canada is a foreign country, and you'll be pleasantly reminded of that in a visit to Waterton, where you can still get British high tea and a biscuit, if you're so inclined.

Waterton is where the Canadian mountains meet the vast rolling prairies, so there's an incredible variety of flowers and animals here. As you travel along the high ridge you'll see meadows and boggy areas that are ideal habitat for moose; later, you'll find yourself surrounded by lakes, as the Canadian Rockies fill the horizon. The area is also a haven for elk, mule deer, and bighorn sheep, and both grizzly and black bears are found in the park.

Compared to its counterparts in the Lower 48, Waterton is a tiny park; the total size is only 203 square miles. However, the park has great historical significance: based on more than 200 identified archaeological sites, historians think that Aborigines first populated the area 11,000 years ago.

The parks have been designated the Waterton/Glacier International Peace Parks to commemorate the "long history of peace and friendship" between the United States and Canada. Waterton Lakes was made a national park in 1895, with Glacier being designated 15 years later. The joint international designation came in 1932, and in 1995, the peace park became a World Heritage site.

Essentials--American and Canadian money is freely accepted in both Glacier and Waterton. Stores provide change in the local currency after adjusting for the current exchange-rate differential.

Getting There--From the eastern entrance of Glacier National Park at St. Mary, drive north through Babb, until you reach the intersection of Mont. 17--it's very well marked. Head northwest to the Canadian border, where Mont. 17 becomes Alberta 6 (remember, you need proof of citizenship--and a driver's license doesn't always work). Head down into the valley until you reach the park entrance on your left.

Fees & Backcountry Permits--Park entrance costs C$4 (US$2.80) per person, at a maximum of C$8 (US$5.60) per vehicle. Day hiking does not require a permit, but backcountry overnight trips do, at a cost of C$6 (US$4.20) per person per day. Permits may be obtained at the visitor center up to 24 hours in advance of your trip, or they may be reserved by calling tel. 403/859-5133.

Visitor Information--The Visitor Reception Centre is just inside the park, on the same road you used coming in (tel. 403/859-5133).

Exploring the Park--Unlike most "park villages," Waterton village actually is a village. It looks like it would be a nice place to live. As you cruise the perimeter of the lake headed for Waterton Village, you'll pass three large lakes, the habitat of bald eagles that are often perched atop the snags of dead trees. The park bears a striking resemblance to Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming in that its attractions spread across a narrow valley floor. But the valley is narrower and three-fourths of it surrounded by peaks, so the overall effect is cozier, but equally dramatic.

By most standards, it's also windier here--though locals say that they don't acknowledge the wind unless there are whitecaps in the restroom toilets at the Prince of Wales Hotel. The Prince of Wales actually does sway noticeably in a high wind, although signs assure us that it is not a concern.

Hiking, biking, and boating on the lake are the most popular pastimes. Most of the 120 miles (193km) of trails are easily accessible from town. They range in difficulty from short strolls to steep treks for overnight backcountry enthusiasts.

Biking--All of Waterton's roads are open for bicycling, but because they are shared with automobiles, they are narrow and potentially hazardous. Waterton allows biking on some trails. Check at the visitor center to find out which ones.

Hiking--The first thing a lot of people do at Waterton Park is hike the Bear's Hump Trail. It is the park's most popular path--but not necessarily the easiest. The trail starts at the visitor center. Only about three-quarters of a mile (1km) long, it gains 700 feet in elevation from bottom to top. That is steep, squared. You'll be rewarded with a panoramic view of the park. The hike is called Bear's Hump because of the shape of the mountain, not because you're likely to run into bears--though, of course, you never know.

Right at the edge of Waterton Park, at Cameron Falls, Cambrian rocks are exposed from the period 600 million years ago when life exploded on earth. This is the oldest exposed formation in the Rocky Mountains. The falls are spectacular, too.

For nearly 20 years, the 10 4/5-mile (17km) Crypt Lake Trail has been rated as one of Canada's best hikes--except for those prone to seasickness, since the trail head is reached by taking a 2-mile (3km) boat ride across Upper Waterton Lake. Contact Waterton InterNation Shoreline Cruises (tel. 403/859-2362) for details regarding the boat shuttle. After that, the trail leads past Hellroaring Falls, Twin Falls, and Burnt Rock Falls before reaching Crypt Falls and a passage through a 60-foot rock tunnel. The elevation gain is 2,300 feet, but veterans say the hike is doable in 3 hours, one way.

A second extended tour starts at the marina and heads south across the international boundary to Goat Haunt, Montana, an especially popular trip because of the sightings of bald eagles, bear, bighorn sheep, deer, and moose, as well as numerous unusual geologic formations.

The International Peace Park Hike is a free guided trip held on Saturdays from the end of June to the end of August. Participants meet at the Bertha trail head at 10am and spend the day on an 8 1/2-mile (14km) trail that follows Upper Waterton Lake. At the end of the trail, hikers return via boat to the main dock. Adult fare is C$10 (US$7); children's fare is C$5 (US$3.50).

There is a wonderful nature trail in Red Rock Canyon, a short, easy trek through time--0.7 miles (1km), 65 million years--when the shallow sea that once lay here exposed and then oxidized mudstone rock to the color of a merlot. The rocks are banded with white slashes through the formations, portions that didn't oxidize because they were not exposed to the air from the receding and returning sea. The Red Rock Canyon Road is also an area of fairly frequent bear sightings.

Where to Stay--For complete lodging information, contact central reservations for the Waterton area (tel. 800/215-2395; www.watertonchamber.com/lodging).

While the Prince of Wales Hotel is clearly the flagship on this lake, alternative arrangements can be made at Kilmorey Lodge (tel. 403/859-2334). This cozy country inn on Emerald Bay, at the north end of the lake, has an antique decor. Bedrooms have down comforters and a dining room and lounge are on the premises. The Waterton Lake Lodge (tel. 888/985-6343 or 403/859-2151) opened in July 1997. Located in the heart of Waterton Village, the lodge offers lake and mountain views, and some rooms have fireplaces, whirlpool tubs, and kitchenettes. Other facilities include a health center, spa, and indoor pool.

Camping--At the west end of the village is Townsite Campground, a Parks Canada-operated facility with 235 sites that's an especially popular jumping-off spot for campers headed into the park's backcountry. Prices range from C$15 (US$10.50) to C$23 (US$16.10); half of the sites have electricity and sewage disposal; also available on the premises are kitchen shelters, washrooms, and shower facilities. The site is perched right on the lake, so views are excellent and trails await evening strollers. The campground is open from late April to early October.

There are 10 designated wilderness campgrounds with dry toilets and surface water, some of which have shelters, charging C$6 (US$4.20).

Where to Dine--All of the village's restaurants are within a 4-block area around Waterton Avenue (which the locals call Main Street). So despite the fact that many buildings aren't numbered, you'll have no problem finding places to eat or shop.

The Windflower Dining Room (tel. 403/859-2151) at the Waterton Lake Lodge offers casual dining and spectacular views. The Garden Court Dining Room at the Prince of Wales Hotel serves a breakfast buffet daily from 6:30 to 9:30am, and traditional English and continental fare for lunch (daily 11:30am-2pm) and dinner (5-9:30pm).

You'll find luxurious surroundings, and slightly higher prices, at Kootenai Brown Dining Room (tel. 403/859-2211), at the Bayshore Inn, considered the luxury spot on the lake. You'll find steaks, chicken, rack of lamb, and the occasional seafood entree. New Frank's Restaurant (tel. 403/859-2240) serves conventional western fare that includes beef, chicken, and spaghetti, as well as a Chinese menu that includes an all-you-can-eat evening buffet.