The ocean has been Gloucester’s lifeblood since long before the first European settlement in 1623. The most urban of Cape Ann’s communities, Gloucester (which rhymes with “foster”) is a working city, not a cutesy tourist town. It’s home to one of the last commercial fishing fleets in New England, an internationally celebrated artists’ colony, and a large Italian-American community. (At the end of June, the 4-day St. Peter’s Fiesta celebrates those Italian-American roots with parades, carnival rides, music, food, the “greasy pole” contest, and the blessing of the fleet.)
Miles of gorgeous coastline surround the densely populated downtown area. Allow at least half a day, perhaps combined with a visit to the more touristy Rockport; a full day would be better, especially if you plan a whale watch. The city is exceptionally welcoming—many residents seem genuinely happy to see out-of-towners and to offer directions and insider info.
Start at the water, as visitors have done for centuries. The French explorer Samuel de Champlain called the harbor “Le Beauport” in 1604—some 600 years after the Vikings first visited—and its configuration and proximity to good fishing gave it the reputation it enjoys to this day. On Stacy Boulevard (west of downtown) stands a reminder of the sea’s danger: Leonard Craske’s bronze statue of the Gloucester Fisherman, known as “The Man at the Wheel,” with its ominous inscription “They That Go Down to the Sea in Ships 1623–1923.” To the west is a memorial to the women and children who waited at home. As you take in the glorious view, consider this: More than 10,000 fishermen lost their lives during the city’s first 300 years.
Many travelers know Gloucester from Sebastian Junger’s best-selling book, The Perfect Storm, and the movie it inspired. The Crow’s Nest, 334 Main St. (tel. 978/281-2965), plays a major role in the book, although it technically didn’t appear in the movie—its ceilings weren’t high enough for it to be a movie set, so the film crew built an exact replica nearby. Still, gawkers like to take a peek into what is otherwise a bar filled with regular folks.
Stage Fort Park, off Route 127 near the intersection with Route 133, offers an excellent view of the harbor and has a busy seasonal snack bar, the Cupboard (tel. 978/281-1908). The park is a good spot for picnicking, swimming, or playing on the cannons in the Revolutionary War fort.
To reach East Gloucester, follow signs as you leave downtown (from Route 128, take exit 9). On East Main Street, you’ll see signs for the Rocky Neck Cultural District and Gallery 53, at 53 Rocky Neck Ave. (tel. 978/282-0917). The oldest continuously operating art colony in the country is based here, and Rocky Neck Avenue abounds with studios and galleries. In summer, most galleries are open daily, hours vary. To explore the area on foot, park your car in the lot on the tiny causeway. The prestigious North Shore Arts Association, 11 Pirates Land, off East Main Street (tel. 978/283-1857), founded in 1922, is open from May through October, Monday through Saturday 10am to 5pm, Sunday noon to 5pm. Admission is free.
Down by the Sea -- On Stacy Boulevard west of downtown Gloucester is a reminder of the sea's danger. Leonard Craske's bronze statue of the Gloucester Fisherman, known as "the Man at the Wheel," bears the inscription "They That Go Down to the Sea in Ships, 1623-1923" (the phrase is from the 107th Psalm). A few hundred feet west is a memorial to the women and children who waited at home. As you take in the glorious view, consider this: More than 10,000 fishermen lost their lives during the city's first 300 years.
The Perfect Storm -- Long after the release of the blockbuster movie, Sebastian Junger's bestselling book The Perfect Storm remains a popular reason to visit Gloucester. The thrilling but tragic true account of the "no-name" hurricane of 1991 centers on the ocean and a neighborhood tavern. The Crow's Nest, 334 Main St. (tel. 978/281-2965), a bit east of downtown, is a no-frills place with a horseshoe-shaped bar and a crowd of regulars who seem amused that their hangout is a tourist attraction. The Crow's Nest plays a major role in Junger's story, but its ceilings weren't high enough to accommodate a movie set, so the film crew built an exact replica nearby. If you admired the movie's wardrobe design, check out the shirts and caps at Cape Pond Ice, 104 Commercial St., near the chamber of commerce (tel. 978/283-0174). "The Coolest Guys Around" have provisioned Gloucester's fishing fleet since 1848. The company offers 40-minute tours of its industrial facility, which is famous for its ice sculptures; bring (or buy) a sweatshirt. The price is $10 for adults, $6 for seniors and children 7 to 11; reservations are recommended.
Narrated Cruises
The schooner Thomas E. Lannon (tel. 978/281-6634) is a gorgeous reproduction of a Gloucester fishing vessel. The 65-foot tall ship sails from Seven Seas Wharf downtown, off Rogers Street; 2-hour excursions ($40 for adults, $35 for seniors, $28 for children 16 and under) leave about four times daily from mid-June to mid-September, less often on weekends from mid-May to mid-June and mid-September to mid-October. On Saturday morning in July and August, kids (one per parent) sail free. The company also offers music and dining cruises, including sunset lobster bakes. Reservations are recommended for all excursions.
The two-masted schooner Adventure (tel. 978/281-8079) is a 122-foot fishing vessel built in Essex in 1926. It's being restored -- a fascinating process -- at Gloucester Marine Railways at Rocky Neck, on the tip of the peninsula that's home to the artists' colony. Adventure will eventually resume regularly scheduled public sailing; meanwhile, the staff of the "living museum," a National Historic Landmark, offers dockside educational programs. Check ahead for details and schedules, open days and hours, and prices.
A Whale of an Adventure
The waters off the Massachusetts coast are prime whale-watching territory, and Gloucester is a center of cruises. Stellwagen Bank, which runs from Gloucester to Provincetown about 27 miles east of Boston, is a rich feeding ground for the magnificent mammals. The whales often perform by jumping out of the water, and dolphins occasionally join the show. Naturalists on board narrate the trip for the companies listed here, pointing out the whales and describing birds and fish that cross the boat’s path.
The season runs from April or May to October. Bundle up—it’s much cooler at sea than on land—and wear a hat and rubber-soled shoes. Pack sunglasses, sunscreen, and a camera. If you’re prone to motion sickness, take precautions, because you’ll be at sea for 3 1/2 to 5 hours.
They’d deny it, but the companies are essentially indistinguishable. Most guarantee sightings and offer morning and afternoon cruises. Check ahead for sailing times, prices (at least $48 for adults, slightly less for seniors and children), and reservations, which are strongly recommended. In downtown Gloucester, there’s Cape Ann Whale Watch (tel. 800/877-5110 or 978/283-5110); Capt. Bill & Sons Whale Watch (tel. 800/339-4253 or 978/283-6995), and Seven Seas Whale Watch (tel. 978/283-1776).
If your schedule allows, plan to visit Maritime Gloucester, 23 Harbor Loop (tel. 978/281-0470), before or after your trip. Admission ($10 adults, $7 seniors and children) includes access to its Sea Pocket Aquarium. Open daily 10am to 5pm.
Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.