Active Pursuits

The unbeatable factors of almost-guaranteed sunshine, one of the world's most beautiful beaches, and the Caribbean's best scuba diving and snorkeling have permanently anchored Grand Cayman on the tourist map.

Grand Cayman has a number of smaller beaches, but its so-called Seven Mile Beach (actually 8.9km/5 1/2 miles) is the major attraction, with its vast expanses of powdery white sand. Unlike the beaches on some islands to the south, such as Jamaica, Seven Mile Beach is litter-free and also relatively free of peddlers hawking souvenirs.

The beach is so big that there's always plenty of room for everybody, even in the midst of the winter tourist season and at the peak of the cruise ship arrivals. Most of Grand Cayman's hotels, restaurants, and shopping centers are found along this much-frequented strip of sand. Many scuba-diving and watersports outfitters are also based here.

Along with swimmers and beach buffs, scuba divers travel to the Cayman Islands in droves from around the world. As diver Bob Soto -- who opened the first dive shop in the Caribbean back in 1957 -- puts it, "If there's any spot on the planet that God created just for divers, it is Grand Cayman." One-third of all visitors to the Cayman Islands come specifically to go scuba diving or snorkeling.

The Cayman Islands proudly boast more than 200 named and explored dive sites. Some of the most dramatic dive sites have not been thoroughly explored (and unfortunately aren't on the itineraries of most outfitters), owing to the massive coral reefs and drop-offs that surround all three Cayman Islands. Dive outfitters are familiar with the best of the accessible dive sites and will guide you to what interests you the most. The Cayman Islands have the most reliable outfitters in the Caribbean, complementing the Islands' reputation as one of the world's greatest scuba-diving destinations.

Even if you're not a scuba diver or snorkeler, you'll find many other attractions on the water, including fishing, boating, and windsurfing. If you're a landlubber, there's always golfing and horseback riding. But most landlubbers never seem to leave Seven Mile Beach.

Note: Some outfitters quote prices in both U.S. and Cayman dollars; others, especially those patronized almost exclusively by foreign visitors, quote their prices in U.S. dollars.

Boat Rentals

Many travelers dream of sailing their own boat beneath an azure Caribbean sky, without the company of a crew. Alas, unless you're a very experienced sailor, and unless you can afford it, it might not be feasible to rent one of the very large sailing vessels that are the norm at most boat charter outfits (and often require a substantial cash deposit before a newcomer will be entrusted to take it out onto the deep blue sea). However, there are numerous ways for less experienced sailors to rent small boats.

Small (about 3.3m-long/11-ft.) sailing craft are the specialty at the Cayman Islands Sailing Club, Spinnaker Road, Red Bay, near the hamlet of North Sound (tel. 345/947-7913; www.sailing.ky). On a sunbaked, gravel-covered compound, isolated from the traffic and congestion of West Bay, you'll find a two-story warehouse crafted from wood planks and corrugated metal panels, a clubhouse with its own trophy-filled bar, and an inventory of about 70 small-scale sailboats, usually Picos, Lasers, or (least high-tech of all) simple sailing dinghies, each suitable for one or two persons. Most boats rent for 2-hour periods, time enough to do some quality brisk sailing in Grand Cayman's North Sound. Boat rentals are CI$30 to CI$40 per hour. Rentals are available every day from 9am to 5pm and require at least a rudimentary level of sailing experience. If you don't feel completely proficient, you can sign up for a series of sailing lessons, each lasting 8 hours, for a fee of around CI$600.

Submarine Rides

Atlantis Adventures (tel. 866/546-7820 in the U.S., or 345/949-7700 from the Cayman Islands or other parts of the world; www.atlantisadventures.net) is the better established of two outfits on Grand Cayman, both of which promise to take you, safely and panoramically, beneath the surface of the waves. The company provides underwater tours with views of the remarkable geology beneath the sea around Grand Cayman. Each trip departs from a clearly signposted building set directly on the waterfront of George Town, immediately south of the cruise ship piers.

The cheapest submarine experience, limited to relatively shallow waters, is offered within the Seaworld Explorer semi-submarine. Developed in Australia for viewing marine life from the surface of the Great Barrier Reef, this is a steel-hulled watercraft that only appears unusual beneath the waterline (it looks like a regular boat from above). In the ship's lowest level, in cramped proximity to up to 45 other passengers, you'll be seated next to windows that angle downward for panoramic views of the deep. Because the ship never descends beneath the surface of the sea, a ride is best suited for viewing sun-flooded reefs, shipwrecks, and objects lying no more than 7.5m (25 ft.) beneath the surface. Part of the attraction of this trip derives from the scuba divers who dispense scraps of fish to all manner of hungry marine life, including Bermuda chubs, sergeant majors, and angelfish. One-hour boat rides are priced at US$34 per adult, and US$19 per child age 2 to 12.

The second option is aboard the Atlantis submarine, a fully submersible craft holding 48 passengers. A 75-minute tour priced at US$89 per person descends to depths of 30m (98 ft.). Tickets for children ages 4 to 12 cost US$59, and teenagers (ages 13 to 17) are charged US$69 each. No children under 4 are permitted onboard. There's plenty to see underwater at this depth, as enough sunlight reaches down to allow for the growth of thousands of kinds of plant life, vital for the sustenance of an equally impressive number of species of fish. This is the most popular, and perhaps the most visually rewarding, of the submarine experiences.

The competitor is the 60-passenger Nautilus, Bush Centre, George Town (tel. 345/945-1355; www.nautilus.ky), a semi-submarine with a protected glass hull that cruises only 1.5m (5 ft.) below the sea's surface -- not exactly the full submarine experience. The craft, named after Jules Verne's futuristic vessel, departs from Rackham's Dock behind Rackham's pub in George Town. The trips take visitors to the Cali and Balboa shipwrecks and on to Cheeseburger Reef, where passengers can view divers feeding the fish. Departures are daily at 11am and 3pm, with the afternoon tour allowing passengers 30 minutes of snorkel time. The morning tour takes 1 hour, and costs CI$31 for adults and CI$15 for children 3 to 12; the afternoon tour takes 1 1/2 hours and costs CI$36 for adults and CI$20 for children 3 to 12. Children 2 and under are free.

Windsurfing

Avid windsurfers rate the 6.4km (4 miles) of reef-protected shallows off East End as the best location for windsurfing. Prevailing winds reach 24 to 40kmph (15-25 mph) from November through March, with 6- to 10-knot southeasterly breezes in summer months.

The best outfitter for windsurfing gear and lessons is Cayman Windsurfing, which operates as a subdivision of Red Sail Sports, at Morritt's Tortuga Club (tel. 345/947-7449), in the East End of the island, an hour's drive from George Town. Open daily from 8:30am to 5pm, it charges US$45 per hour or US$120 for 3 hours for windsurfing gear. If your stamina demands 5 hours, the cost goes up to US$180. Windsurfing lesson packages are also offered, beginning at US$65 for 1 hour and going up to US$300 for 10 hours, including training classes. Snorkeling equipment can also be rented here for US$15 for 24 hours. Or you can opt for a snorkeling trip farther afield on a WaveRunner. The 30-minute excursion costs US$75 for two people, or US$95 for one person.

Fishing

Grouper and snapper are the most common catches for those who bottom-fish along the reef. Deeper waters turn up barracuda and bonito. Sport fishermen from all over the world come to the Caymans with hopes of hooking one of the big ones: tuna, wahoo, or marlin. Most hotels can make arrangements for charter boats. Otherwise, contact Bayside Watersports (tel. 345/949-3200; www.baysidewatersports.com), offering deep-sea-fishing excursions in search of tuna, marlin, and wahoo on a variety of air-conditioned vessels with experienced crew. Tours depart at 7am and 1pm, and are priced according to how many people join the tour. A half-day tour for up to four people costs US$600, while a full day for the same group is US$1,000. Bonefishing and reef-fishing tours are also available at US$500 for a half-day and US$900 for a full day for four people.

Golf

Golf courses on Grand Cayman are open daily from 8am to 6pm. Many golfers prefer to avoid the intense noonday sun.

The best course on the island is the Britannia Golf Club (tel. 345/745-4653), a well-respected, open-to-the-public 9-hole course designed by Jack Nicklaus, positioned across the avenue from the Grand Cayman Beach Suites on West Bay Road. Greens fees are US$90 to US$100 for 9 holes, or US$140 to US$150 if you opt to play the course twice, thereby playing 18 holes. Cart rentals are included, but club rentals cost US$20 for 9 holes or US$40 for 18. Incidentally, there's a charming restaurant associated with this golf course, the Britannia Restaurant (tel. 345/745-4653). Open daily for lunch and dinner, it affords a view of the lake along with stiff drinks, and excellent salads and burgers, and a theme vaguely akin to a game lodge in Kenya.

Often swept by trade winds, North Sound Club, Seven Mile Beach, off West Bay Road (tel. 345/945-4155; www.northsoundclub.com), is a par-71, 6,011m (6,574-yd.) course designed by Roy Case, who factored the strong gusts into his design. The course is filled with water and sand traps, but attracts hundreds of golfers who want to face the challenge. Caser set the course into what is tantamount to a botanical garden. On-site are a clubhouse and pro shop, as well as a restaurant. Management requires that you wear collared shirts, not T-shirts. Greens fees are US$160 for 9 holes, including the cart.

A final course, the 9-hole Blue Tip, West Bay Road (tel. 345/815-6500), is reserved for guests of the Ritz-Carlton, charging greens fees of US$200 per player. Designed by Greg Norman, Blue Tip also has the best pro shop on island.

The Booby, the Parrot, the Frigate Bird, et al.

About 200 species of birds make their home in the Caymans, and some 50 species are known to breed here, ranging from the famous Cayman parrots to the elegant frigate birds with their 7-foot wingspan. This magnificent bird with its forked tail has the ability to glide on its wings.

The islands are also home to the West Indian whistling duck, called the world's most endangered duck.

Sailors named a red-footed bird "booby," Spanish for "fool," because it was so easy to catch. Mostly this bird nests on Little Cayman.

You can also spot two species of woodpecker, along with tangers, ibis, mockingbirds, and several species of egrets and herons.

The Cayman parrot is, in fact, the national bird of the islands. Cayman Brac is the best island for parrot viewing, as a large reserve is protected for these colorful birds, which are mostly green with a red throat, cheeks, and neck.

On Grand Cayman, bird-watchers flock to Queen Elizabeth II Botanic Park, the Meagre Bay Pond, and the Michael Gore Bird Sanctuary, among other sights, to see these birds in all their glory. The Michael Gore sanctuary lies on 3 1/2 acres of pristine wetland in the Spotts Newlands area.

Horseback Riding

Horse Back in Paradise with Nicki (tel. 345/945-5839; www.caymanhorseriding.com) collects riders anywhere in the vicinity of Seven Mile Beach and takes them on early-morning or late-afternoon beach rides, with some inland trail riding. Nicole "Nicki" Eldemire has a wealth of information about life in Grand Cayman, and is full of anecdotes about island life, flora, and fauna. You're in the saddle for 75 minutes for US$100 per person. Sunset rides can also be arranged for a minimum of six riders.

Honey Suckle Trail Rides, Savannah (tel. 345/916-5420), will also arrange to pick you up if you're staying in the vicinity of Seven Mile Beach. This outfitter offers morning and sunset rides lasting 1 1/2 hours at a cost of US$60 per rider. Both Western and English tack are offered.

Tennis

Many of the big resorts have their own tennis courts available to guests. However, a total of nine courts are available to the public at the Cayman Islands Tennis Club, Ann Bonney Crescent, South Sound (tel. 345/949-9464; www.tennis.ky). The fee for up to 2 hours on either asphalt or "classic clay" surfaced courts is CI$12 per person. Hours can vary according to the season and the weather, so call ahead.

Indoor Activities

If it's raining, or too hot, but you're desperate to put your body in motion, try the World Gym, West Bay Road (tel. 345/949-5132; www.worldgym.com/grandcayman). You'll find it behind a branch of Wendy's on Seven Mile Beach. As the original fitness center on the island, it's still going strong with state-of-the-art equipment like Nautilus and cardiovascular machines, plus activities such as aerobics, bodybuilding, jujitsu karate, massages, weight lifting, and the like, with five personal trainers on call. A 1-day pass costs US$25. The gym is open Monday to Thursday 5am to 10pm, Friday 5am to 8pm, Saturday 8am to 6pm, and Sunday 8am to 4pm.

A competitor is Fitness Connection, Glen Eden Road, South Sound (tel. 345/949-8485; www.fitness.ky), which is a full-service facility with a lot of extras -- even belly dancing and tap-dancing. Regular gym workouts are offered, along with personal training and yoga. Admission is CI$30 per day for everybody (aerobics and dance classes are included in this fee), plus an additional CI$15 for use of special facilities and special programs. The complex is open Monday to Friday from 8am to 6pm and Saturday 9am to 1am.