Getting Around

By Plane

Compared to the cheaper classes on ships and ferries, air travel within Greece can be expensive, but we recommend it for those pressed for time and/or heading for more distant destinations (even if the planes don't always hold strictly to their schedules). Until the late 1990s, Olympic Airways (tel. 210/966-6666; www.olympicairlines.com) maintained a monopoly on domestic air travel and thus had little incentive to improve service. In the end, it declared bankruptcy and was placed under new management, which has steadily improved service. Better computerized booking has reduced the number of last-minute discoveries that you don't have a seat. Delayed flights are still common, although the quality of the service, which was criticized for some years, is reportedly better. (For some reason, Olympic's domestic flight attendants seem to be more helpful than their international counterparts.) Also, Olympic has one of the best safety records of any major airline.

Book as far ahead of time as possible (especially in summer), reconfirm your booking before leaving for the airport, and arrive at the airport at least an hour before departure; the scene at a check-in counter can be quite hectic.

Olympic Airways has a number of offices in Athens, though most travel agents sell tickets as well. It offers mainland service to Aktaion Preveza, Alexandroupolis, Ioannina, Kalamata, Kavala, Kastoria, Kozani, and Thessaloniki. As for islands, Olympic services Astipalea; Corfu (aka Kerkira); Iraklion, Chania, and Sitia, Crete; Hios (aka Chios); Ikaria; Karpathos; Kassos; Kastellorizo; Kefalonia; Kos; Kithira; Leros; Limnos; Milos; Mykonos; Mitilini (aka Lesvos); Naxos; Paros; Rhodes; Samos; Santorini (aka Thira); Skiathos; Skyros; Siros; and Zakinthos. All of Olympic's domestic flights leave from the new international airport at Spata. Most flights are to or from Athens, although during the summer there may be some inter-island service. The baggage allowance is 15 kilos (33 lb.) per passenger, except with a connecting international flight; even the domestic flights generally ignore the weight limit unless you are way over. Smoking is prohibited on all domestic flights.

A round-trip ticket costs double the one-way fare. Sample round-trip fares (including taxes) at this writing are: Athens-Santorini (Thira) 220€ ($286); Athens-Iraklion, Chania, 210€ ($273); Athens-Ioannina, 215€ ($280); Athens-Mykonos, 215€ ($280); Athens-Mitilini (Lesvos), 200€ ($260); Athens-Skiathos, 135€ ($176). As you can see, even the shorter trips are not especially cheap, but there's no denying that for those with limited time, air travel is the best way to go. Ask, too, if Olympic still offers reduced fares for trips Monday through Thursday and trips that include a Saturday-night stay.

Over the years, several private airlines have tried to compete with Olympic, but only one has survived to provide a real alternative: Aegean Airlines. From abroad, dial the code for Greece, then tel. 210/626-1000; within Greece, dial tel. 801/112-0000. You can also check www.aegeanair.com, which allows you to order e-tickets online. Its prices now pretty much match those of Olympic. Their service is limited but includes Alexandroupolis, Chania, Chios, Corfu, Ioannina, Iraklion, Kavala, Kos Mitilini, Mykonos, Patras, Rhodes, Samos, Santorini, and Thessaloniki. (They also offer direct flights to Rome, Milan, several major German cities, and Cyprus.) Foreign travel agents may not be aware of Aegean Airlines, so check out their website. People who have been flying Aegean for several years now find the airline reliable, safe, and hospitable.

As of 2007, two more competitors are emerging -- Airsea Lines, which flies hydroplanes between selected points, and Sky Express, which flies small (18-seater) planes between Crete and several Aegean islands. Airsea Lines claims to be operating out of are two principal bases -- one at Lavrion on the coast of Attika to the southeast of Athens, and Gouvia, a few miles outside Corfu's capital city. (A third base has also been planned for Faliron, the coast just south of Athens.) The connections from Attika are with Ios, Kalymnos, Kos, Mykonos, Paros, Santorini, Tinos; from Corfu with Ithaka, Lefkada, Kefalonia, Patras, Paxoi, and to Brindisi in Italy. Fares range from 40€ to 120€ ($52-$156).

Sky Express claims that it will be offering flights between Crete and several Aegean islands. A typical fare is 79€ ($107) from Heraklion, Crete, to Rhodes -- quite reasonable when one considers the time saved.

Both these lines have limited schedules and very low limits on luggage so anything over could increase the fare considerably. Also, as these are new outfits and much was still being worked out as we went to press, you are advised to consult their websites, www.airsealines.com and www.skyexpress.gr. If in Greece, call Airsea Lines at their toll-free number tel. 801/1180-0600 or Sky Express at tel. 2810/223-500.

Note: Most Greek domestic tickets are nonrefundable, and changing your flight can cost you up to 30% within 24 hours of departure and 50% within 12 hours.

By Train

Greek trains are generally slow but are inexpensive and fairly pleasant. The Hellenic State Railway (OSE) also offers bus service from stations adjacent to major train terminals. (Bus service is faster, but second-class train fare is nearly 50% cheaper, and trains offer more comfortable and scenic rides.) If you are interested in special arrangements involving rail passes for Greece (sometimes in combination with Olympic Airlines flights within Greece), check out www.raileurope.com or call tel. 888/382-7245 in the U.S. and 800/361-7245 in Canada.

For information and tickets in Athens, visit the OSE office at 1-3 Karolou (tel. 210/522-4563), or at 6 Sina (tel. 210/362-4402), both near Omonia Square.

Purchase your ticket and reserve a seat ahead of time, as a 50% surcharge is added to tickets purchased on the train, and some lines are packed, especially in summer. A first-class ticket may be worth the extra cost, as seats are more comfortable and less crowded. There is sleeper service on the Athens-Thessaloniki run. Though the costly sleepers are a good value, you must be prepared to share a compartment with three to five others. Express service (6 hr.) runs twice a day, at 7am and 1pm.

Trains to Northern Greece (Alexandroupolis, Florina, Kalambaka, Lamia, Larissa, Thessaloniki, Volos, and other towns) leave from the Larissa station (Stathmos Larissis). Trains to the Peloponnese (Argos, Corinth, Patras) leave from the Peloponnese station (Stathmos Peloponnisou). Take trolley no. 1 or 5 from Syntagma Square to either station.

The Peloponnese circuit from Corinth to Patras, Pirgos (near Olympia), Tripolis, and Argos is one way to experience this scenic region, though the Athens-Patras stretch is often crowded. The spectacular spur between Diakofto and Kalavrita is particularly recommended for train enthusiasts.

By Bus

Public buses are inexpensive but often overcrowded. Local bus lines vary from place to place, but on most islands the bus stop is in a central location with a posted schedule. Destinations are usually displayed on the front of the bus, but you might have to ask. The conductor will collect your fare after departure.

Note that in Athens and other large cities, a bus ticket must be purchased before and validated after boarding. Kiosks usually offer bus tickets as well as schedules. Bus tickets cost about .50€ (65¢). Tram tickets cost some .60€/78¢ while the Athens metro ticket's cost is based on the destination.

Note: Save your ticket in case an inspector comes aboard. If you don't have a ticket, the fine can be at least 30 times the price of the ticket!

Greece has an extensive long-distance bus service (KTEL), an association of regional operators with green-and-yellow buses that leave from convenient central stations. For information about the long-distance-bus offices, contact the KTEL office in Athens (tel. 210/512-4910).

In Athens, most buses heading to destinations within Attica leave from the Mavromate terminal, north of the National Archaeological Museum. Most buses to Central Greece leave from 260 Liossion, 5km (3 miles) north of Omonia Square (take local bus no. 024 from Leoforos Amalias in front of the entrance to the National Garden and tell the driver your destination). Most buses to the Peloponnese, Western, and Northern Greece leave from the long-distance bus terminal at 100 Kifissou, 4km (2 1/2 miles) northeast of Omonia Square. To get to the long-distance bus terminal, take local bus no. 051 from the stop 2 blocks west of Omonia, near the big church of Ayios Konstandinos, at Zinonos and Menandrou.

Express buses between major cities, usually air-conditioned, can be booked through travel agencies. Make sure that your destination is understood -- you wouldn't be the first to see a bit more of Greece than bargained for -- and determine the bus's schedule and comforts before purchasing your ticket. Many buses are not air-conditioned, take torturous routes, and make frequent stops. (NO SMOKING signs are generally disregarded by drivers and conductors, as well as by many older male passengers.)

Organized and guided bus tours are widely available. Some of them will pick you up at your hotel; ask the hotel staff or any travel agent in Athens. We especially recommend CHAT Tours, the oldest and probably most experienced provider of a wide selection of bus tours led by highly articulate guides. Almost any travel agent can book a CHAT tour, but if you want to deal with the company directly, contact them through their website, www.chatours.gr; in Athens, the CHAT office is at 9 Xenofontos, 10557 Athens (tel. 210/323-0827). Then there is the longtime favorite, American Express, with offices all over North America and Europe; the Athens office (tel. 210/325-4690) is located at 31 Panepistimiou, right on the corner of Syntagma Square.

Note: Readers have complained that some bus groups are so large they feel removed from the leader; inquire about group size if this concerns you.

By Taxi

Taxis are one of the most convenient means of getting about in Greece. They can also be the most exasperating, although there have been improvements in recent years. For instance, you no longer have to fight for a cab at most airports; just find the line. Official fares are considerably lower in Athens than in London, New York, or Toronto. At some major tourist locales the fixed charges for rides to select destinations are posted (from an airport to the city center, for instance). But there is no denying that many drivers take advantage of foreigners. That said, perhaps there is no greater percentage of cheats among Greece's cabdrivers than in all major cities around the world -- and many Greek taxi drivers are good-natured, helpful, and informative. Foreigners' language limitations and unfamiliarity with the official regulations, however, can make it easier for some of them to gouge you.

The converse is also true: Language gaps can lead to genuine misunderstandings. And several legitimate surcharges do apply -- for heavy luggage, for rides from midnight to 6am (almost twice the regular rate!), for rides on holidays, and for rides from and to airports. Ask to see the official rate sheet that the driver is required to carry.

Get your hotel desk to help you hail or book a taxi. Radio cabs cost 3€ ($3.90) extra, but you'll have some leverage. Restaurants and businesses can also help you call or hail a cab, negotiate a fare, and make sure your destination is understood. Using a card from your hotel, write down your destination (or learn to pronounce it). Be willing to share a cab with other passengers picked up on the way, especially during rush hour; think of it as your contribution to better efficiency and less pollution. Be aware that you pay only your proportion of the shared fare.

Always have at least a vague idea of your destination as indicated by a map, so that you don't end up going to Plaka from Syntagma by way of Kolonaki. (There are, however, several ways of getting to Plaka from Syntagma.) Don't be bothered by bullying or bluster; counter with your own bluff, showing your self-confidence by keeping your cool.

Taxi Tips -- Taxi rates are in constant (upward!) flux, so we provide the rates as we go to press. First, though, check to see that the little window next to the euro display on the meter is "1" and not "2" -- which is the setting for midnight-to-6am or outside-the-city-limits rates (which are about double the regular rate). If that's not the case, reach over and indicate that you notice.

A driver may want to let you off where it's most convenient for him. Be cooperative if it's easier and quicker for you to cross a busy avenue than for him to get you to the other side, but you don't have to get out of the cab until you're ready.

If things are obviously not going well for you, conspicuously write down the driver's name and number and by all means report him to the tourist police (tel. 171) if he has the nerve to call your bluff. One of the best countertactics is to simply reach for the door latch and open the door slightly; he won't want to risk damaging it. (Two passengers can each open a door.)

Our final advice: Don't sweat the small change. So the driver is charging you 13€ ($17) for a ride you have been told should be about 10€ ($13); are you prepared to go to court for 3€ ($3.90)? Any difference above 5€ ($6.50) probably should be questioned -- but it may have to do with traffic delays when the meter ticks at the rate of 7.25€ ($9.40) per hour. Most cabbies are honest -- just be aware of the possibilities. And be sure to reward good service with a tip.

By Moped, Motorbike & Motorcycle

There seems to be no end to the number of mopeds, motorbikes, motorcycles, and related vehicles available for rent in Greece. They can be an inexpensive way to get around, especially in the islands, but they are not recommended for everyone: Greek hospitals admit scores of tourists injured on mopeds or motorbikes every summer, and there are a number of fatalities. Roads are often poorly paved and without shoulders; loose gravel or stones are another common problem. Meanwhile, as of 2000, Greek law requires that all renters of mopeds and motorcycles be licensed to operate such vehicles. Make sure you have insurance and that the machine is in good working condition before you take it. Helmets are required by law and strongly recommended, although you will rarely see Greeks wearing them.

You might wish that the larger motorbikes and motorcycles were forbidden on all the islands, as Greek youths seem to delight in punching holes in the mufflers and tearing around at all hours. (Some islands are wisely banning them from certain areas and restricting the hours of their use, as they are the single most common cause of complaints from tourists and residents alike.) The motorcycles rented to tourists are usually a bit quieter, but they are more expensive and at least as dangerous.

Moped Warning -- Although mopeds are the vehicle of choice in Greece, especially on the islands, be aware that there is a Greek law (prompted by a huge number of accidents) requiring that anyone driving a moped must have a motorcycle license. Agencies offering moped rentals rarely tell tourists this because very few tourists have motorcycle licenses. This makes for serious troubles if an accident occurs and you are not a licensed motorcycle driver: You will have broken the law and will not be covered by insurance. Check with your own auto and/or medical insurance plan to see if you are covered for such an eventuality.

By Bicycle

Bicycles are not nearly as common in Greece as they are throughout most of Europe, since they are not well suited to Greek terrain or temperament and would be downright dangerous in traffic. In less hectic towns and in the countryside, however, a bicycle might be fine for short distances. Older bikes are usually available for rent at modest prices in most resort areas, and good mountain bikes are increasingly available.

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Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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				Frommer's Greece, 6th Edition Author: Sherry Marker Pub Date: February 11, 2008 Price: $21.99				Related Titles: Europe For Dummies, 4th Edition Europe For Dummies, 5th Edition Frommer's Amsterdam Day by Day, 1st Edition