Side Trips

A Side Trip to Lake Brunner

Lake Brunner and the little township of Moana, situated on its northern shore, lie 30 minutes east of Greymouth. It's a peaceful, scenic diversion serviced by both the TranzAlpine train and a daily shuttle bus -- and, I regret to say, great clouds of greedy sand flies that you'll spend your hours swatting away. Access by road is via Arthur's Pass or Lewis Pass, which makes it a good stopover point if you're heading north or south.

The lake and surrounding rivers have some of the best trout fishing in the South Island. The prime time for fishing is between October and April. The Greymouth i-SITE Visitor Centre has a big list of guides and will point you in the right direction for the best spots. Just make sure you get a license first.

If you find the tranquil nature of this location appealing and you decide to stay over, you'll find a motel complex, a motor camp, and the old Moana Hotel, Ahau Street, Moana (tel. 03/738-0388; www.moanahotelmotel.co.nz), which offers inexpensive motel/hotel rooms and cabins. If you prefer a more upmarket option, stay at Lake Brunner Lodge, Mitchells, RD1, Kumara, Westland (tel./fax 03/738-0163; www.lakebrunner.com), on the unpopulated side of the lake. It has 11 rooms and has recently been upgraded. Rates run from NZ$440 to NZ$555 and a five-course dinner costs NZ$110 per person on top. It's looking very smart, and this spot is a great hit with fishermen.

Dining out is a little more limited. Your best option is Stationhouse Café, Koe Street, Moana (tel. 03/738-0158), where pastas, steaks, and roast lamb range from NZ$16 to NZ$32. It's a pretty setting overlooking tiny Moana Railway Station and the lake, but a trifle overpriced and you have to take the service as you find it. It's open daily from 10:30am until late.