Fast Facts

American Express -- In Guatemala, Clark Tours, Clark Plaza, 7a Av. 14-76, Zona 9 (tel. 502/2412-4700; www.clarktours.com.gt), is the official representative of American Express Travel Services. They also have desks at the downtown Westin and Marriott hotels. To report lost or stolen Amex traveler's checks within Guatemala, call the local number above, or call tel. 801/964-6665 collect in the U.S.

Babysitters -- Hotels offering regular, dependable babysitting service are few and far between. If you need a babysitter, make sure that your hotel offers this service, and be sure to ask whether the babysitters are bilingual. In many cases, they are not. This is usually not a problem with infants and toddlers, but it can cause problems with older children. Babysitters charge between Q15 and Q45 ($2-$6/£1.05-£3.15) per hour.

Banks -- You'll have no trouble finding a bank in Guatemala City. Numerous bank branches can be found all over zonas 1, 4, 9, 10, and 13. Banks are usually open Monday through Friday from 9am to 4pm, although many have begun to offer extended hours. The most widespread banks include Banquetzal (www.banquetzal.com.gt), Banrural (www.banrural.com), Banco G&T (www.gytcontinental.com.gt), Banco de Guatemala (www.banguat.gob.gt), and Banco Industrial (www.bi.com.gt).

Bookstores -- Bibliophiles will be disappointed in Guatemala City. You'd be better off purchasing any specific reading material, for pleasure or research, before your trip. The best bookstore in the city for tourists is Sophos, Av. La Reforma 13-89, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2334-6797; www.sophosenlinea.com), which also has a lovely coffee shop attached. L'Areté, Avenida La Reforma and 16a Calle, Zona 9 (tel. 502/2360-2233); Gémenis Bookstore, 3a Av. 17-05, Zona 14 (tel. 502/2366-1031); and Vista Hermosa Book Shop, 2a Calle 18-50, Zona 15 (tel. 502/2369-1003), also carry books in English.

Camera Repair -- Quick Photo (tel. 502/2368-0600) and Fuji Film (tel. 502/2420-3900) both have technicians on hand, and carry a limited range of replacement and repair parts.

Cellphones -- There are several competing cellphone companies in Guatemala that have numerous outlets across the city, including at the airport. All sell prepaid GSM chips that can be used in any unlocked tri-band GSM cellphone. Storefronts at the airport, and at many hotels around the city, will also rent out cellphones. The main companies are Claro (tel. 147-100; www.claro.com.gt), which is a division of Telgua, the national telephone company; Movistar (tel. 502/2379-1960; www.movistar.com.gt), which is a division of the international firm Telefonica; and Tigo (tel. 502/2428-0000; www.tigo.com.gt), which is also marketed as Comcel. Prepaid chips come in denominations from Q10 to Q200 ($1.35-$27/70p-£14). Most companies charge an activation fee of around Q50 ($6.65/£3.50). Rentals run between Q15 and Q45 ($2-$6/£1.05-£3.15) per day.

Currency Exchange -- All banks will exchange money for a small service charge. Many of the hotels, restaurants, and shops in Guatemala City will also accept U.S. dollars and euros, though many give less than advantageous exchange rates. A branch of Banquetzal (tel. 502/2347-5081; www.banquetzal.com.gt) is located at the international airport, open Monday through Friday 6am to 8pm, Saturday through Sunday 6am to 6pm.

Dentists -- Call your embassy, which will have a list of recommended dentists, or ask your hotel. Alternately, you can try Clínica Dental de Especialistas, 7a Av. 9-71, Zona 9 (tel. 502/2362-9983).

Doctors -- Contact your embassy for information on doctors in Guatemala City, or see "Hospitals," below.

Drugstores -- A drugstore or pharmacy is called a farmacia in Spanish. In Guatemala, they are also sometimes called droguería. There are scores of pharmacies around Guatemala City, and most major hotels have one attached or nearby. Ask your hotel, or call Farmacias Klee (tel. 502/2360-8383), which offers 24-hour delivery service for a small fee. In Zona 10, try Osco, 16a Calle and 4a Avenida (tel. 502/2337-1566).

Emergencies -- In case of an emergency, dial tel. 1500 from anywhere in Guatemala. This will connect you to a bilingual operator at Asistur who can put you in contact with the police, fire department, or ambulance service. Dial tel. 110 for the National Police, and tel. 125 for the Red Cross (Cruz Roja, in Spanish). As in the U.S., tel. 911 works as an emergency number from most phones in Guatemala.

Express Mail Services -- Most hotels can arrange for express mail pickup, or you can contact DHL, 12a Calle 5-12, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2234-1704; www.dhl.com); or UPS, 12a Calle 5-53, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2231-2421; www.ups.com).

Eyeglasses -- An eyeglass store is called óptica in Spanish. There are many around Guatemala City, but your best bet is to ask your hotel. If you need to see an optometrist, contact Visión Ingetral, 2a Av. 9-03, Zona 9 (tel. 502/2334-2301).

Hospitals -- Hospital Centro Médico, 6a Av. 3-47, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2279-4973), is an excellent private hospital, with English-speaking doctors on staff. Alternately, the Hospital General San Juan de Dios, 1a Avenida and 10a Calle, Zona 1 (tel. 502/2220-8396), is the biggest and best equipped public hospital in the city.

Internet Access -- A fair number of hotels and restaurants around town provide free wireless access. Internet cafes are very common in Guatemala City. Rates run between Q3 and Q8 (40¢-$1.05/20p-60p) per hour. In Zona 1, I like Uranus Café Net, 14a Calle 10-32, Zona 1 (tel. 502/2232-9368), while in Zona 10, I recommend Café Internet, 5a Avenida and 16a Calle, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2337-4060). For a good, free Wi-Fi hot spot, head to Caffe di Fiore, 15a Av. 16-66, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2366-9877).

Laundry & Dry Cleaning -- Most folks rely on their hotel's laundry and dry cleaning services, although these can be expensive. You can also try the Lavandería Interdry, 18a Calle 11-12, Zona 1 (tel. 502/2251-4063), or Lavanderías Max de Guatemala, Bulevar Los Próceres 19-42, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2367-3678).

Maps -- INGUAT (tel. 502/2421-2854; www.visitguatemala.com) will provide you with a pretty acceptable map that has the entire country on one side and Guatemala City and Antigua on the other. The map is free, and you can pick one up at their booth at the airport or by visiting their downtown office at 7a Av. 1-17, Zona 4. You can also buy good detailed maps in most gift shops and at Sophos, Av. La Reforma 13-89, Zona 10 (tel. 502/2334-6797; www.sophosenlinea.com).

Newspapers & Magazines -- La Prensa Libre is the country's most highly regarded daily newspaper, with an outstanding investigative reporting staff. The lower-brow Nuestro Diario has the highest circulation. There are several other daily papers, including Siglo XXI. There are currently no English-language newspapers. The free, monthly Revue Magazine (www.revuemag.com) is the most valuable locally produced information source, with museum, art gallery, and theater listings. It's widely available at hotels and other tourist haunts around the country.

Photographic Needs -- While I recommend bringing as much film as you foresee needing, and then waiting until you return home to develop it, those who can't wait can head to Quick Photo (tel. 502/2368-0600) and Fuji Film (tel. 502/2420-3900), both of which offer 1-hour developing service, as well as digital printing services, and carry a wide range of film, camera accessories, and replacement parts.

Police -- You can contact the National Police by dialing tel. 110 from any telephone in the country. The tourist police (POLITUR) is a small, specialized division of the larger police force, created to patrol specific tourist areas and trained to deal with tourists. Dial tel. 502/5561-2073 to contact them. In an emergency, tel. 911 will work from most phones. You can also call tel. 1500, which will connect you to a bilingual operator at Asistur.

Post Office -- A post office is called correo in Spanish. The main post office, 7a Av. 12-11, Zona 1 (tel. 502/2232-6101), is a beautiful building. It costs around Q5 (65¢/35p) to send a letter to the U.S. or Europe. Postcards to the same destinations cost Q3 (40¢/20p).

Restrooms -- There are few public restrooms available around town. Most hotels and restaurants will let travelers use their facilities, although they are happiest if you are a paying client.

Safety -- Safety is an issue in Guatemala City. I highly recommend that you stick to the most affluent and touristy sections of town highlighted in this book. Also, it's unwise to walk anywhere in Guatemala City after dark. Basic common sense and street-smarts are to be employed. Don't wear flashy jewelry or wave wads of cash around. Be aware of your surroundings, and avoid any people and places that make you feel uncomfortable. Rental cars generally stick out and are easily spotted by thieves, who know that such cars are likely to be full of expensive camera equipment, money, and other valuables. Don't ever leave anything of value in an unattended parked car.

Taxes -- A Q225 ($30/£16) departure tax must be paid upon departure. Sometimes this is included in your airline ticket price. Be sure to check in advance. If not, you'll have to pay the fee in cash at the airport. There is an additional airport security fee of Q20 ($2.65/£1.40). A 12% IVA (value added) tax is tacked on to the purchase of all goods and services. An additional 10% tax, on top of the 12% IVA, is added to all hotel rooms and lodgings.

Time Zone -- Guatemala City is on Central Standard Time, 6 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time. It observed daylight saving time for the first time in 2006, but it remains to be seen whether the country will continue to observe it.

Useful Telephone Numbers -- For directory assistance, call tel. 124; for an international operator and directory assistance, call tel. 147-110. To make a direct international call, dial tel. 00 + the country code + the area code + the phone number. To get the current time, dial tel. 333-1526.

Water -- Drink only bottled water within Guatemala City and be especially careful to do so when traveling outside the capital, as water-borne diseases are very common in this country.

Weather -- The weather in Guatemala City is mild year-round, with an average daytime temperature of around 70°F (21°C), and a rainy season May through October.