Taverna del Lupo

Each of the five tunnels of vaulted stonework that make up this 30-year-old Eugubine culinary landmark feels like a little medieval trattoria. This is where Rodolfo Mencarelli launched in 1968 what has become a small Umbrian hospitality empire -- it includes the hotels Bosone, Relais Ducale, and Gattapone. Begin with the delizie tipiche Umbre, "typical Umbrian delicacies" that may include a rosa di arista (a cold salad of roast pork topped with thinly sliced pears and pecorino cheese). The frittatina gentile con lamelle di tartufo (cheese omelet under a shower of white truffle flakes) is excellent, as is the sfogliatina del Lupo con tartufo (a light lasagne made with cheese, bits of ham and mushrooms, tiny cubes of tomato, and white truffle shavings). To stay with the precious white mushroom, you can order as a secondo the scallopina affogato di tartufo (a tender veal scallop "drowning" in truffles) or the simple and juicy agnellino (charcoal-grilled Umbrian lamb). The ever-changing desserts are inventive and delectable.

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