Planning a Trip

Getting There

Make Saturna Your First Stop  -- If you're planning to make a circuit of the five southern Gulf Islands, consider starting with Saturna Island. Saturna is far easier to reach by ferry from Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island than it is from its sister Gulf Islands (to get to Saturna from Tsawwassen on the mainland requires a change of ferries). In fact, there's not even scheduled service between Saturna and Salt Spring Island. However, for reasons unknown, once on Saturna it's not difficult to continue on to other islands.

By Ferry -- BC Ferries (tel. 888/BCFERRY [223-3779] in North America, or 250/386-3431; www.bcferries.com) operates four different runs to the southern Gulf Islands, from Tsawwassen on the British Columbia mainland, and from Swartz Bay, Crofton, and Nanaimo on Vancouver Island. The system was designed primarily to get commuters to their jobs on the mainland or in Victoria. Getting exactly where you want to be, exactly when you want to be there, is anything but straightforward (and not always possible). Be aware that the ferries are not particularly large; to ensure that you make the one you want, arrive at least 15 minutes early (30 min. on summer weekends). You can make reservations on the routes from Tsawwassen, but not on the other runs.

Ticket pricing is confusing. There are separate fares for drivers, passengers, and vehicles, plus fees for bikes, kayaks, and canoes on most runs. Tickets from Vancouver Island (Chemainus, Crofton, Nanaimo, or Swartz Bay) are calculated as return fares; that is, when you buy a ticket and depart from one of these ports, you don't have to buy an additional ticket if you are returning to the same port. However, all fares via Tsawwassen are one-way: You pay going and coming. To make it more puzzling, outward-bound fares from Tsawwassen are more expensive than the same journey back to the mainland. Sample peak-season fares: a car and two passengers from Swartz Bay to Salt Spring Island, C$53; a single foot passenger, C$9.

If you are planning to visit several islands, consider purchasing a 4- or 7-day SailPass (www.bcferries.com/sailpass) from BC Ferries, which can reduce both fares and confusion. The SailPass is a one-price ticket that allows you to travel along 20 ferry routes in southern B.C., including those routes servicing the Gulf Islands (except for travel along the Inside Passage routes or to the Queen Charlottes). The ticket includes passage for a vehicle plus two adults (more adults can be added to the ticket by paying more). A 4-day ticket is C$189, and a 7-day ticket is C$229, which, given normal use, will represent a savings of about one-third over regular fares. The only hitch is that you need to pre-purchase the SailPass -- you can't buy one at the ferry terminal. They can be ordered from the BC Ferry website above (allow a week for delivery) or purchased the same day from a number of regional tourist information centers; visit the website for a full list of locations.

By Plane -- A number of commuter airlines offer regular floatplane service from either Vancouver Harbour or Vancouver International Airport. One-way tickets to the islands usually cost C$85 to C$95 per person, not a bad fare when you consider the time and hassle involved in taking a ferry. However, floatplanes are small and seats sell out quickly, so reserve ahead of time. Call Harbour Air Seaplanes (tel. 800/665-0212 or 604/688-1277; www.harbour-air.com), or Seair Seaplanes (tel. 800/447-3247 or 604/273-8900; www.seairseaplanes.com).

Visitor Information

For general information on the Gulf Islands, contact Tourism Vancouver Island, Ste. 501, 65 Front St., Nanaimo, BC V9R 5H9 (tel. 250/754-3500; fax 250/754-3599; www.vancouverisland.travel). Another good comprehensive resource is www.gulfislands.com.

A Note for Families  -- If you're traveling with kids, the Gulf Islands are a fairly inhospitable place to secure accommodations. Nearly all B&Bs have listed minimum ages for guests (usually 12 or 16), and there are only a few standard motels or cottage resorts where families are welcome. Note that for all accommodations, it's mandatory to make reservations well in advance, as the ferry system doesn't exactly make it easy to just drive on to the next town to find a place to stay. One option for families is to rent a cottage or private home. Gulf Island Vacation Rentals, 5402 Wilson Rd., Pender Island, BC V0N 2M1 (tel. 877/662-3414; www.gulfislandvacationrentals.com), is a clearinghouse of private homes, bed-and-breakfast rooms, and cottages available for rental on the Gulf Islands.

Getting Around

Most innkeepers will pick up guests at the ferry or floatplane terminals, if given sufficient notice. There's also taxi service on most islands. Most taxis will quote you a fixed price for a journey when you phone to reserve the trip. Be sure to confirm the price when you're picked up.

By Bicycle -- Winding country roads and bucolic landscapes make the Gulf Islands a favorite destination for cyclists. Although the islands' road networks aren't exactly large -- and roads are quite steep and narrow -- it can be great fun to bike the back roads, jump a ferry, and peddle to an outlying pub for lunch. Bikes can be taken onboard BC Ferries for a small surcharge. Note, though, that the narrow roads really fill up in summer, making them more idyllic for cycling other times of the year. Several parks have designated mountain-bike trails. Rentals are available on most islands.

By Kayak -- The Gulf Islands' lengthy and rugged coastline, plus their proximity to other more remote island groups, make them a good base for kayaking trips. Most of the islands have kayak outfitters; however, not all of them will offer rentals separate from guided tours. If you're an experienced kayaker and just want to rent a kayak, call ahead to inquire. Kayaks and canoes can be taken on the ferries for a small fee.