Gustavus (gus-tave-us) remains an undiscovered treasure -- or, at least, it succeeds in making itself feel that way. Although wonderfully remote and easily accessible only by air, the town has a selection of comfortable and even luxurious inns and lodges, plus several days' worth of outdoor activities, excellent salmon and halibut fishing, nearly surefire whale-watching, close access to sea kayaking and other activities at Glacier Bay National Park, and places for casual hiking and bicycle outings. Large cruise ships cannot land here, leaving the roads free of their throngs of shoppers. Miraculously, the 450 townspeople have been smart enough to value what they've got and build on it. Even the gas station is a work of art. Walking, biking, or driving down the quiet roads, everyone you pass -- every single person -- waves to you.
The buildings, mostly clapboard houses and log cabins, are scattered widely across an oceanfront alluvial plain. Several of the founding homesteads were farms, and the broad clearings of sandy soil wave with hay and wildflowers. The setting is unique in Alaska, and when I had a choice to go anywhere in the state for a 4-day trip with extended family, this is the place I chose. Each of us took something lasting from the trip. My older son, then 8, learned what it was like to be able to bike anywhere at will, making discoveries in the woods and friends on the quiet lanes without his parents reining him in. My parents, in their 60s, glowed when they returned from kayaking among the breaching humpback whales in the park's Bartlett Cove. I often reminisce about a day at the beach when I built dams and sand castles with the children, looking up to see a family of orcas romping just offshore. My cousin won't forget the huge platters of Dungeness crab that came for dinner one night at the inn.
The problem with Gustavus is the expense (and the dampness, but you get used to that). The best outdoor activities involve charters or rentals, which can add more than $250 a day per person to the cost of your trip. Most accommodations have all-inclusive plans, which include great meals but come with price tags of $200 per person per night or more. Less expensive B&Bs exist, but the choice of restaurants for dinner is limited.
Town Without a Downtown -- This town looks like the country: houses, cabins, and a few businesses spread far apart along gravel roads. Services are limited. On Dock Road, the Bear Track Mercantile sells necessities. Gustavus also has a gas station and a liquor store. Bring whatever else you will want with you, and reserve all accommodations in advance. The local government, founded in 2004, imposes a 2% sales tax and an added 4% tax on accommodations.
