Active Pursuits

Everything to do in Gustavus involves the outdoors. I've listed the activities here in priority order.

Whale-Watching & Fishing

Whales keep their own schedule, but you're almost certain to see them on a whale-watching excursion here, where the swirling current of Icy Strait creates such a rich feeding ground that humpbacks come back to every summer without fail. The big tour boat in the national park frequently sees whales, but Icy Strait, outside the park, is even more prolific. Currently, there are two options. Since arrangements change annually, it's wise to call ahead or get advice from your lodge or B&B host.

Cross Sound Express (tel. 888/698-2726 or 907/766-3000; www.taz.gustavus.com) takes two viewing trips a day with up to 23 passengers aboard the TAZ, which is also used for kayak drop-offs and other marine transportation. The cost is $110 per person, children 4 to 6 $55, 3 and under free. The park concessionaire, Glacier Bay Lodge and Tours (tel. 888/229-8687 or 907/264-4600; www.visitglacierbay.com), offers a whale-watching dinner cruise on Thursday and Saturday at 5:30pm. The cost is $134 adults, $67 ages 2 to 12. Meal selections include halibut, salmon, or chicken with soft drinks.

Gustavus has superb charter boat fishing for halibut and salmon (if salmon are running). The waters are protected and seasickness generally is not a concern. Your inn host in Gustavus can make the arrangements. A boat typically charters for $275 to $340 per person for a full day, plus the cost of having your fish professionally packed and shipped home to you. Half days are rarely available because the boats are fully booked. If you do a fishing charter, and the others on board agree, you can take some of the time for whale-watching.

Sea Kayaking

Gustavus-based Spirit Walker Expeditions (tel. 800/KAYAKER or 907/697-2266; www.seakayakalaska.com) has a good reputation locally. They lead guided day trips to the whale-watching grounds and overnight expeditions as long as a week. Alaska Discovery (tel. 800/586-1911; www.alaskadiscovery.com) offers an easy 3-day, 2-night kayaking expedition among the whales for $1,150 per person. They take a boat to a base camp, then kayak among the whales from there. The outing is suitable for fit beginners and older children.

Hiking & Bicycling

There are few cars in Gustavus, but most inns provide bikes. The roads are fun to explore, and the sandy beaches, accessed from the town dock, are great for a walk and a picnic, to watch eagles and other birds and wildlife. You can go many miles, if you are of a mind, for a run or long walk, but we saw little reason to go far before stopping to play and picnic on a broad sand beach undisturbed by any other human footprint.

Golf

If you bring your clubs to Southeast Alaska (a questionable decision), you'll find a unique and spectacular course in Gustavus on the shore of Icy Strait. The 9-hole, par-36 Mt. Fairweather Golf Course (tel. 907/697-2214) was built and is mowed and groomed by Morgan DeBoer on his family's land for the love of the game. Payment to play is voluntary, but $15 is customary. Reservations are unnecessary, as you may have the course to yourself.