Coffee emporia have cropped up throughout Halifax in the last couple of years, as they have in urban areas everywhere. Many also stock sandwiches, pastries, and light snacks in addition to the java. A few of the best downtown options are Caffé Ristretto (tel. 902/425-3087) at 1475 Lower Water St. (Bishop Landing) with its nice harbor views; Timothy's World Coffee, which has locations at Barrington and Upper Water streets; Cabin Coffee (tel. 902/422-8130) at 1554 Hollis St. with its Bohemian feel and good espresso and cappuccino; and the dependable Canadian chain Second Cup, with outlets in Scotia Square and on Spring Garden Road.
For chain fast-food meals (if you must), again stick to Spring Garden Road. For a quick snack on the same street, the plastic patio furniture outside belies the good snacks, pastries, coffees, teas, and light meals inside Annie's Place (tel. 902/420-0098) at 1513 Birmingham St. (corner of Spring Garden); outstanding bargain lunch specials include changing offerings such as a slab of grilled meatloaf on focaccia. For more upscale fare, explore downtown or some of the tiny side streets that cross Spring Garden.
The Brewery complex, on the uphill side of Lower Water Street just above the docks, is perhaps the city's most interesting one-stop shopping and dining experience. Originally the site of the Alexander Keith brewery, North America's oldest, the space was eventually redesigned and renovated to enclose some courtyards from the weather, link up the various structures of the brewery, and create a kind of interior market of shops and restaurants. Today the complex houses the city's finest Italian restaurant, as well as a range of other drinking, dining, and shopping options. While navigating its labyrinthine courtyards to find a particular establishment can be a bit confusing, it's also great fun to see what pops up around the next corner.
The Saturday morning farmer's market held within the Brewery's walls is a weekly highlight for local Haligonians, rain or shine. It's Canada's oldest -- and possibly its most interesting -- such market. The market runs between 7am and 1pm each Saturday, but come early in the day for the widest selection of donuts, fruits, vegetables, coffee, baked goods, smoked meats, crafts, Greek pastries, wine and chocolate samples, and dynamite crepes -- among many other items.
There's also a more permanent farmer's market that will apparently become established year-round at Pier 20 on the waterfront once funds are secured. Check with the market's website, www.halifaxfarmersmarket.com, for the latest details and opening hours.
