Attractions

Before you tour the city, you can get a sweeping view of Hamburg from the tower of the finest baroque church in northern Germany, Hauptkirche St. Michaelis, Michaeliskirchplatz, Krayenkamp 4C (tel. 040/37678100; U-Bahn: Rödingsmarkt or St. Pauli). Take the elevator or climb the 449 steps to enjoy the sweeping view from the top of the hammered-copper tower. The crypt is one of the largest in Europe and contains the tombs of such famous citizens as composer Carl Philipp Emanuel Bach and the church's builder, Ernst Georg Sonnin. Hours are daily May to October 9am to 7:30pm; November to April 10am to 5:30pm. Entrance to the church is free, but to use the stairs or elevator costs 2.50€ ($3.25) for adults, 1.25€ ($1.65) for children. A combination ticket for the tower and crypt costs 3€ ($3.90) for adults, 1.50€ ($1.95) for children.

The Altstadt actually has little old architecture left, but there are a few sights among the canals that run through this section from the Alster to the Elbe. The largest of the old buildings is the Rathaus, Rathausplatz (tel. 040/428310; U-Bahn: Rathausmarkt), which is modern in comparison to many of Germany's town halls. This Renaissance-style structure was built in the late 19th century on a foundation of 3,780 pinewood piles. It has a sumptuous 647-room interior and can be visited on guided tours costing 2€ ($2.60). Tours in English are given hourly Monday to Friday, 10am to 3pm, Saturday and Sunday 10am to 1pm (there are no tours during official functions). The Rathaus's 49m (161-ft.) clock tower overlooks Rathausmarkt and the Alster Fleet, the city's largest canal.

A few blocks away is the 12th-century St. Petri Kirche, Speersort 10 (tel. 040/3257400; U-Bahn: Rathausmarkt). The lion-head knocker on the main door is the oldest piece of art in Hamburg, dating from 1342. The church is open Monday to Friday 10am to 6pm, Saturday 10am to 5pm, and Sunday 9am to 9pm.

The nearby 14th-century Gothic St. Jacobi Kirche, Jakobikirchhof 22, with an entrance on Steinstrasse (tel. 040/3037370; U-Bahn: Mönckebergstrasse), was damaged in World War II but has been restored. It contains several medieval altars, pictures, and sculptures, as well as one of the largest baroque organs in the world (Arp-Schnitger, ca. 1693). The church is open Monday to Saturday 10am to 5pm. Guided tours in English can be arranged.

Nearby Attractions

Every ship that passes the landscaped peninsula at Willkomm-Höft (Welcome Point) is welcomed in its own language, as well as in German, from sunrise to sunset (8am-8pm in summer). The ships' national anthems are played as a salute. The station was founded in the late spring of 1952, at the point where a sailor first catches sight of the soaring cranes and slipways of the Port of Hamburg. As a vessel comes in, you'll see the Hamburg flag on a 40m (131-ft.) mast lowered in salute. The ship replies by dipping its flag. More than 50 arriving ships, and as many departing ones, pass Willkomm-Höft each day.

The point can be reached by car from Hamburg via the Elbchaussee or Ostdorfer Landstrasse to Wedel in half an hour. You can also go to Wedel by S-Bahn; a bus will take you from the station to the point, or you can enjoy the 15-minute walk. In the summer, you can take a HADAG riverboat, leaving from St. Pauli Landungsbrücken, an hour's ferry ride.

In Wedel, you can have lunch at Schulauer Fährhaus, Parnastrasse 29 (tel. 04103/92000; S-Bahn: Wedel), attractively situated on the wide lower Elbe. The sons of Otto Friedrich Behnke, who founded Willkomm-Höft, run the restaurant. It has large enclosed and open verandas, as well a spacious tea garden. Guests are welcomed for breakfast, lunch, tea, or dinner. Fish dishes are a specialty, and the restaurant's bakery turns out a tempting array of goodies. Children, especially, will delight in watching the ships go by as they eat. Main courses run 9€ to 17€ ($12-$22). It's open daily 9am to 11pm. No credit cards are accepted.

In the cellars of the Schulauer Fährhaus is the Buddelschiff-Museum (tel. 04103/92000; www.buddel.de), where more than 200 little vessels are carefully preserved in bottles. The museum is open March to October, daily 10am to 6pm; off season, Saturday and Sunday only 10am to 6pm. Admission is 2.50€ ($3.25) for adults and free for children.

Gardens & Parks

Alsterpark lies on the northwest banks of Alster Lake, spread across 72 well-manicured hectares (178 acres). Beautiful shade trees and cultivated gardens greet you at every turn. From many places, you'll also have a panoramic view of the Hamburg skyline. Enter on Harvestehuderweg.

The Hirschpark (S-Bahn: Blankensee) is Hamburg's deer park. Its main entrance is at Mühlenberg. The park is landscaped and has a game enclosure. You can visit the Hirschparkhaus for an old-fashioned tea with pastries.

Stadtpark (U-Bahn: Borgweg, in Winterhude), spread across some 182 hectares (450 acres) north of the center, has some 30km (20 miles) of footpaths and numerous recreational facilities. These include a planetarium, sunbathing areas (Hamburgers often prefer their sun sans attire), and open-air pools. Music concerts are often staged here during summer. For your safety, avoid this place after dark.

Finally, Wallringpark (U-Bahn: Stephansplatz) is a quartet of beautifully maintained parks and gardens, including the flower garden Planten und Blomen, the Alter Botanischer Garten, and the Grosse and Kleine (big and little) Wallanlagen parks, with many recreational facilities. A miniature railway connects all four. The entire complex is a popular leisure park, with a roller-skating rink, playgrounds, greenhouses filled with tropical plants, restaurants, and an ice-skating rink in winter. A particular highlight is the illuminated-fountain concert, with classical or pop music, at the onset of darkness -- June to August 10pm, earlier as the summer wanes. The largest Japanese garden in Europe is in Planten und Blomen. Here, rock gardens, flowering plants, miniature trees, and winding pathways attract garden enthusiasts.

Family-Friendly Activities

Although Hamburg is known for its X-rated entertainment, the city is actually ideal for a family vacation. Carl Hagenbeck's Tierpark (tel. 040/5400010) is one of Europe's great zoos , and many other parks in Hamburg have amusements for children -- for example, the Wallringpark has a roller-skating rink. Boat tours of the Alster and more lengthy tours of the Port of Hamburg will also delight kids. Willkomm-Höft and the Buddelschiff-Museum are also fun for children.

Language is often not a problem for children, so they may enjoy the children's theater, Theater für Kinder, Max-Brauer-Allee 76 (tel. 040/382538; U-Bahn: Altona). All tickets cost 11€ to 20€ ($14-$26); call for show times.