City Layout

Hamburg is a showplace of modern architecture; historic structures stand side by side with towering steel-and-glass buildings. The 12 sq. km (4 1/2 sq. miles) of parks and gardens are a vital part of the city, as are the 57 sq. km (22 sq. miles) of rivers and lakes. The city is not compact and can't be easily covered on foot. Many sections of interest are far apart; you'll have to depend on public transportation or taxis.

The Alster is the perfect starting point for a pleasurable exploration of Hamburg. This lake, rimmed by the city's most significant buildings, sparkles with the white sails of small boats and ripples with the movement of motor launches. The lake is divided by the Lombard and John F. Kennedy bridges into the Binnenalster (Inner Alster) and the larger Aussenalster (Outer Alster). The Binnenalster is flanked on the south and the west by the Jungfernstieg, one of Europe's best-known streets and Hamburg's most vital artery and shopping district. For landlubbers, the best view of the Alster is from this "maiden's path."

From the Hauptbahnhof, on the eastern fringe of the heart of town in the vicinity of the Binnenalster, two major shopping streets fan out in a southwesterly direction, toward St. Petri Church and the Rathaus. They are Spitalerstrasse (reserved for pedestrians) and Mönckebergstrasse, paralleling it to the south. These streets contain some of the city's finest stores. Stay on Mönckebergstrasse to reach Rathausmarkt, which is dominated by the Rathaus, a Renaissance-style city hall palace.

The center of Hamburg offers fine opportunities for walking; for example, the eastern shoreline of the Binnenalster opens onto Ballindamm, which contains many elegant stores. At the foot of this lake is the Jungfernstieg, already mentioned, and along its western shoreline is yet another main artery, the Neuer Jungfernstieg. At the intersection of the Jungfernstieg and Neuer Jungfernstieg is one of the more fascinating streets in Hamburg, the Colonnaden, a colonnade of shops and cafes. In this neighborhood stands the Hamburgische Staatsoper, the famous modern opera house.

A "city within a city" is growing up in the former docklands that extend 3km (2 miles) along the Elbe River. Known as HafenCity, this emerging borough is expected to double the population of central Hamburg with a concert hall, bars, slick office buildings, and hundreds of waterfront apartments. The Hafen City tour leaves only on Saturday at 3pm, and from May to September also on Thursday at 6:30pm. Tours leave from Am Sandtorkai 30 (tel. 040/36901799).

Neighborhoods in Brief

Central Hamburg This is Hamburg's commercial and shopping district, seat of many of its finest hotels and restaurants. The district centers on Binnenalster and the Rathaus (City Hall). Boat rides on the Alster lakes are a major attraction. Many historic buildings that withstood World War II are here, including St. Petri, the oldest surviving structure.

The Harbor The Port of Hamburg is the world's fifth-largest harbor, stretching for nearly 40km (25 miles) along the Elbe River. More than 1,500 ships from all over the world call each month. Since 1189, this has been one of the busiest centers for trade on the Continent, making Hamburg one of Germany's wealthiest cities.

St. Pauli This is Hamburg's nightlife center, with lots of erotica. The district is split by its famous street, the Reeperbahn, neon-lit and dazzling, offering all sorts of nighttime pleasures -- cafes, sex shows, bars, dance clubs, and music halls.

Altona Formerly a city in its own right, this western district is now integrated into greater Hamburg. It was once populated mainly by Jews and Portuguese. Today it's the scene of Hamburg's famous Fischmarkt, which takes place at dawn every Sunday.

Pöseldorf Northwest of Aussenalster, this is a tree-filled residential district, with many villas dating from the 1800s. A large number of exemplary Jugendstil buildings can still be seen here. The district is mostly occupied by upwardly mobile professionals, including a lot of media stars.

HafenCity Locals are calling this maritime and media center a "city within a city," and it's being created in former docklands that extend 3km (2 miles) from the Elbe River. It is Europe's largest inner-city urban development project. The location is between the flood-protection line of the city center and the north arm of the Elbe River. The emerging borough is expected to double the population of central Hamburg with hundreds of waterfront apartments, and includes a concert hall, bars, and slick office buildings. A free guided tour takes place every Saturday at 3pm, and advance notice is not required. Show up at the HafenCity InfoCenter, Kesselhaus, Am Sandtorkai 30 (tel. 040/36901799). U-Bahn stops include the Messberg Station and the Baumwall Station.