Frommer's Review
Don't be confused by this restaurant's unusual name: The "4" within the title refers to the quartet of dedicated chefs (Jürgen, Raik, Nils, and Torsten) who established this charming and experimental restaurant in the Karoviertel district, near the fairgrounds. What you'll see is a long and narrow space outfitted in retro, mildly psychedelic colors, at the end of which is an open-to-view kitchen. The sign in front identifies the place only as Gastraum. At any given time, two of the above-mentioned chefs will be blazing up a culinary storm in the kitchen, while the other two are likely to be waiting on tables in the front, operating in a kind of rotating shift. The culinary creations of the day will be prominently noted on a blackboard, each of them inspired by the season and whim of whoever's cooking that day. Be warned that the selection of food is not particularly extensive on any given day, but since there's always a salad, a soup, a vegetarian dish, one fish dish, one meat dish, and one dessert, even fussy appetites can usually be satisfied. A typical menu available includes the following sublime dishes: cream of asparagus soup with fresh herbs; a salad of wild greens and herbs accented with organic goat's cheese from a nearby farm; Thai-style octopus salad with papaya; pan-fried cod, served with its skin in a bouillabaisse stock; an unusual and very upscale form of Tafelspitz, the boiled veal dish that was the favorite dish of Austro-Hungarian emperor Franz Josef; and a succulent version of cheese-stuffed Hungarian crepes, palatschinken, served with lemon zest and rum sauce.
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