Seven centuries ago, Marco Polo pronounced Hangzhou "the finest, most splendid city in the world . . . where so many pleasures may be found that one fancies oneself to be in Paradise."
Hangzhou's claim to paradise has always been centered on its famous West Lake (Xi Hu), surrounded on three sides by verdant hills. The islets and temples, pavilions and gardens, causeways and arched bridges of this small lake (about 5km/3 miles across and 14km/9 miles around) have constituted the supreme example of lakeside beauty in China ever since the Tang Dynasty when Hangzhou came into its own with the completion of the Grand Canal (Da Yunhe) in 609.
Hangzhou reached its zenith during the Southern Song Dynasty (A.D. 1127-1279), when it served as China's capital. In 2003, to the horror of purists, Xi Hu's western section was enlarged with an additional causeway along its new western shoreline. New sights, shops, and restaurants were added to the eastern and southern shores.
But the news isn't all bad. Away from the lake's commercial eastern edges, and especially in the surrounding hills and countryside, it's still possible to find pockets of peace and quiet. A day trip from Shanghai, an overnight visit, or a lake cruise on one of the large passenger ferries will allow you to appreciate Hangzhou's fabled beauty.
Hangzhou, which is the capital of Zhejiang province in southeastern China (185km/115mi SW of Shanghai), has other tourist draws too, including Gushan Dao (Solitary Island), which is home to a pretty park, the Mausoleum of General Yue Fei, Lei Feng Ta (Lei Feng Buddhist Pagoda), the 600-year-old Ling Yin Si (Temple of the Soul's Retreat) and its giant gilded Buddha, the comprehensive Zhongguo Sichou Bowuguan (China Silk Museum), and the Chinese Tea Museum (Zhongguo Chaye Bowuguan).
The area is also renowned for its cuisine. Plan a lunch at Lou Wai Lou, a famous Hangzhou institution where you can try such specialties as Beggar's Chicken (jiaohua ji), shrimp with longjing tea leaves (longjing xiaren), and dongpo pork. Gushan Lu 30. tel. 0571/8796-9023. You can also head to the Xi Hu Tiandi area, where you'll find trendy restaurants and bars.
