If you don't want to dress up for lunch, you can head for Seaview Takeaway (tel. 242/333-2542), at the foot of the ferry dock. Here you can feast on all that good stuff: pig's feet, sheep-tongue souse, and, most definitely, cracked conch. Everything tastes better with peas 'n' rice. Daily specials range from $3 to $9 (£1.60-£4.75), and service is Monday to Saturday 8am to 5pm. Another casual drop-in spot for both visitors and locals is Arthur's Bakery and Café, Dunmore St. (tel. 242/333-2644), owned by Robert Arthur, the screenwriter for M*A*S*H. Artists, writers, media people, and what Arthur calls "international lollygaggers" hang out here. There are only a few tables, and they fill up quickly with those catching up on the local gossip. Arthur's Trinidadian wife, Anna, bakes the best Key lime tart on the island and is also noted for her croissants and banana bread. At lunch you can drop in for freshly made salads and sandwiches. Many guests come here to use the Internet.
Ma Ruby's Conch Burger -- If you'd like to sample some real local fare, head to Ma Ruby's on Colebrook Street (tel. 242/333-2161). Some islanders claim you will get the best meal in Eleuthera if Ma Ruby (the cook and owner) is in the kitchen herself. Her conch burger is certainly worthy of an award. She's been stewing chicken, baking grouper, and serving hearty meals in a trellised courtyard for a long time, and she's got a lot of devoted fans. The place is well known for its cheeseburgers, which the manager says were ranked as one of the 10 best in the world by "Mr. Cheeseburger in Paradise" himself, Jimmy Buffett. The prices range from $5 to $15 (£2.65-£7.95) for the a la carte menu; a four-course fixed-price Bahamian dinner costs $26 to $40 (£14-£21). The restaurant is open daily 8am to midnight.
