In Depth

As the sun rises on the 21st century, other tropical islands are closing in on the 50th state's position as the world's premier beach destination. But Hawaii isn't just another pretty place in the sun. There's an undeniable quality ingrained in the local culture and lifestyle -- the quick smiles to strangers, the feeling of family, the automatic extension of courtesy and tolerance. It's the aloha spirit, and you won't find it anywhere else.

The Welcoming Lei

There's nothing like a lei. The stunning tropical beauty of the delicate garland, the deliciously sweet fragrance of the blossoms, the sensual way the flowers curl softly around your neck. There's no doubt about it: Getting lei'd in Hawaii is a sensuous experience.

Leis are much more than just a decorative necklace of flowers; they're also one of the nicest ways to say hello, goodbye, congratulations, I salute you, my sympathies are with you, or I love you. The custom of giving leis can be traced back to Hawaii's very roots; according to chants, the first lei was given by Hiiaka, the sister of the volcano goddess Pele, who presented Pele with a lei of lehua blossoms on a beach in Puna.

During ancient times, leis given to alii (high-ranking chiefs) were accompanied by a bow, since it was kapu (forbidden) for a commoner to raise his arms higher than the king's head. The presentation of a kiss with a lei didn't come about until World War II; it's generally attributed to an entertainer who kissed an officer on a dare and then quickly presented him with her lei, saying it was an old Hawaiian custom. It wasn't then, but it sure caught on fast.

Lei making is a tropical art form. All leis are fashioned by hand in a variety of traditional patterns; some are sewn with hundreds of tiny blooms or shells, or bits of ferns and leaves. Some are twisted, some braided, some strung; all are presented with love. Every island has its own special flower lei -- the lei of the land, so to speak. On Oahu the choice is ilima, a small orange flower. Big Islanders prefer the lehua, a large, delicate red puff. On Maui it's the lokelani, a small rose; on Kauai, it's the mokihana, a fragrant green vine and berry; on Molokai it's the kukui, the white blossom of a candlenut tree; and on Lanai it's the kaunaoa, a bright yellow moss. Residents of Niihau use the island's abundant seashells to make leis that were once prized by royalty and are now worth a small fortune.

Leis are available at all of the islands' airports. Other places to get wonderful, inexpensive leis are the half-dozen lei shops on Maunakea Street in Honolulu's Chinatown, and Greene Acres Leis (tel. 808/329-2399), off Kaimiminani Drive in the Kona Palisades subdivision, across from the Kona International Airport on the Big Island. If you plan ahead, you can also arrange to have a lei-greeter meet you and your travel party as you deplane; Greeters of Hawaii (tel. 800/366-8559, 808/836-0161, or 808/836-3246) serves Honolulu, Kona (on the Big Island), Kahului (Maui), and Lihue (Kauai) airports.

Leis are the perfect symbol for the islands: They're given in the moment and their fragrance and beauty are enjoyed in the moment, but even after they fade, their spirit of aloha lives on. Welcome to Hawaii!