Getting Around

Interisland Flights

Since September 11, 2001, the major interisland carriers have cut way, way, way back on the number of interisland flights. The airlines warn you to show up at least 90 minutes before your flight, and believe me, with all the security inspections, you will need all 90 minutes to catch your flight.

In 2008, Hawaii lost one of its three major interisland carriers, Aloha Airlines, but two still remain: Hawaiian Airlines (tel. 800/367-5320; www.hawaiianair.com) and go! (tel. 888/I-FLY-GO-2; www.iflygo.com).

Visitors to Molokai and Lanai have three commuter airlines to choose from. The carrier go! started commuter service under the name go!Express (tel. 888/I-FLY-GO-2; www.iflygo.com), with a fleet of Cessna Grand Caravan 208B planes. Pacific Wings began operating a discount airline called PW Express (tel. 888/866-5022 or 808/873-0877; www.flypwx.com), with daily nonstop flights between Honolulu and Molokai and Lanai, plus flights from Kahului, Maui. And Island Air (tel. 800/323-3345 or 808/484-2222; www.islandair.com) serves Hawaii's small interisland airports on Maui, Molokai, and Lanai. However, I have to warn you that I have not had stellar service on Island Air and recommend that you book instead on go!Express or PW Express if you're headed to Molokai or Lanai.

Overseas visitors can take advantage of the APEX (Advance Purchase Excursion) reductions offered by all major U.S. and European carriers. In addition, some large airlines offer transatlantic or transpacific passengers special discount tickets under the name Visit USA, which allows mostly one-way travel from one U.S. destination to another at very low prices. Unavailable in the U.S., these discount tickets must be purchased abroad in conjunction with your international fare. This system is the easiest, fastest, cheapest way to see the country.

Cruising Through the Islands

If you're looking for a taste of several islands in a single week, consider Norwegian Cruise Line (tel. 800/327-7030; www.ncl.com), the only cruise line that operates year-round in Hawaii. NCL's 2,240-passenger ship Pride of Aloha circles the Hawaiian Islands, stopping on the Big Island, Maui, Kauai, and Oahu; some itineraries even go to Fanning Island in the Republic of Kiribati before returning to Honolulu. The disadvantage of a cruise is that you won't be able to see any of the islands in depth or at leisure; the advantage is that you can spend your days exploring the island where the ship is docked and your nights aboard ship sailing to the next port of call.

By Car

Hawaii has some of the lowest car-rental rates in the country. (An exception is the island of Lanai, where they're very expensive.) To rent a car in Hawaii, you must be at least 25 years of age and have a valid driver's license and credit card. Note: If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you should get an international one if your home license is not in English.

At Honolulu International Airport and most neighbor-island airports, you'll find most major car-rental agencies, including Alamo, Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz, National, and Thrifty. For complete rental-agency contact information, see the appendix. It's almost always cheaper to rent a car at the airport than in Waikiki or through your hotel (unless there's one already included in your package deal).

Rental cars are usually at a premium on Kauai, Molokai, and Lanai, and may be sold out on the neighbor islands on holiday weekends, so be sure to book well ahead.

Insurance -- Hawaii is a no-fault state, which means that if you don't have collision-damage insurance, you are required to pay for all damages before you leave the state, whether or not the accident was your fault. Your personal car insurance may provide rental-car coverage; check before you leave home. Bring your insurance identification card if you decline the optional insurance, which usually costs from $12 to $20 a day. Obtain the name of your company's local claim representative before you go. Some credit card companies also provide collision-damage insurance for their customers; check with yours before you rent.

Driving Rules -- Hawaii state law mandates that all car passengers must wear a seat belt and all infants must be strapped into a car seat. You'll pay a $50 fine if you don't buckle up. Pedestrians always have the right of way, even if they're not in the crosswalk. You can turn right on red after a full and complete stop, unless otherwise posted.

Road Maps -- The best and most detailed maps for activities are published by Franko Maps (www.frankosmaps.com); they feature a host of island maps, plus a terrific "Hawaiian Reef Creatures Guide" for snorkelers curious about those fish they spot under water. Free road maps are published by This Week Magazine, a visitor publication available on Oahu, the Big Island, Maui, and Kauai. For even greater detail, check out Odyssey Publishing (tel. 888/729-1074; www.hawaiimapsource.com), which has very detailed maps of East and West Hawaii, Maui, and Kauai.

Another good source is the University of Hawaii Press maps, which include a detailed network of island roads, large-scale insets of towns, historical and contemporary points of interest, parks, beaches, and hiking trails. If you can't find them in a bookstore near you, contact University of Hawaii Press, 2840 Kolowalu St., Honolulu, HI 96822 (tel. 888/847-7737; www.uhpress.hawaii.edu). For topographic and other maps of the islands, go to the Hawaii Geographic Society, 49 S. Hotel St., Honolulu, or contact P.O. Box 1698, Honolulu, HI 96806 (tel. 800/538-3950 or 808/538-3952).

By Ferry

As we went to press, the Hawaii Superferry ([tel 877/HI-FERRY; www.hawaiisuperferry.com) had just begun service between Honolulu and Maui, with plans to add service between Honolulu and Kauai and between Honolulu and the Big Island. Current ticket prices vary depending on the day of travel. One-way fares range from $44 to $62 for adults; $33 to $51 for children 2 to 12, seniors 62 and over, and retired military personnel; and $17 for infants up to age 2. A variable fuel surcharge (which now is an additional 35% of the cost of your ticket) is added to all tickets.

Vehicles are charged separately, in addition to the passenger fares above. One-way fares range from $59 to $104 for cars, $34 to $44 for motorcycles and mopeds, plus the fuel surcharge.

The 3-hour trip from Honolulu to Maui or Kauai will be offered once daily 6 days a week (no Sat service). The one-way trip from Honolulu to the Big Island will take 4 hours.