Shopping

While chefs and farmers tout this island as fertile ground for crops and food, artists point to its primal, volcanic energy as a boost to their creative endeavors. Art communities and galleries are sprinkled across the Big Island, in villages like Holualoa and Volcano, where fine works in pottery, wood-turning, handmade glass, and other two- and three-dimensional media are sold in serene settings.

Although the visual arts are flourishing on this island, the line between shop and gallery can often be too fine to determine. Too many self-proclaimed "galleries" sell schlock or a mixture of arts, crafts, and tacky souvenirs. T-shirts and Kona coffee mugs are a souvenir staple in many so-called galleries.

The galleries and shops offer a broad mix in many media. Items for the home, jewelry and accessories, vintage Hawaiiana, and accouterments at various prices and for various tastes can make great gifts to go, as can locally made food products such as preserves, cookies, flowers, Kona coffee, and macadamia nuts. You'll find that bowls made of rare native woods such as koa are especially abundant on the Big Island. This is an area in which politics and art intersect: Although reforestation efforts are underway to plant new koa trees, the decline of old-growth forests is causing many artists to turn to equally beautiful, and more environmentally sensitive, alternative woods.

A Special Arts Center & Gallery -- Part gallery, part retail store, and part consortium of the arts, the East Hawaii Cultural Center, 141 Kalakaua St., across from Kalakaua Park (tel. 808/961-5711), is run by volunteers in the visual and performing arts. Keep it in mind for gifts of Hawaii, or if you have any questions regarding the Hawaii Concert Society, Hilo Community Players, Big Island Dance Council, or Big Island Art Guild. The art gallery and gift shop exhibit locally made cards, jewelry, books, sculptures, and wood objects, including museum-quality works.

Edibles & Everyday Things -- The Big Island's green markets are notable for the quality of produce and the abundance of island specialties at better-than-usual prices. Look for the cheerful green kiosks of the Alii Gardens Marketplace, 75-6129 Alii Dr. (at the south end), where local farmers and artists set up their wares daily from 8am to 5pm. This is not your garden-variety marketplace; some vendors are permanent, some drive over from Hilo, and the owners have planted shade trees and foliage to make the 5-acre plot a Kona landmark. There are 40 to 50 vendors on any given day, selling jewelry, woodcrafts, produce, macadamia nuts, orchids, and -- my favorite -- the fresh juices of Kay Reeves, owner of Wau, who gets up before dawn to make her sensational fresh lilikoi and lime juices. Kona Blue Sky Coffee is also here, as is Lynn Cappell, a fine painter of island landscapes, and Laura de Rosa's sensational A'ala Dreams lotions and oils.

Java junkies jump-start their day at Island Lava Java (tel. 808/327-2161), the hot new magnet for coffee lovers at the Coconut Grove Market Place, on Alii Drive. At the other end of Kailua-Kona, in the new New Industrial Area, between Costco and Home Depot, the handmade candies of the Kailua Candy Company, 73-5612 Kauhola St. (tel. 808/329-2522, or 800/622-2462 for orders), also beckon, especially the macadamia-nut clusters with ground ginger or the legendary macadamia-nut honu (turtle). Other products include truffles, pure Kona coffee, shortbread cookies, toffee, T-shirts, mugs, mustards, and other gift items.

Kona Wine Market, in the King Kamehameha Mall (tel. 808/329-9400), has a noteworthy selection, including some esoteric vintages, at prices you'll love. This is a wine lover's store, with selections from California, Europe, and points beyond, as well as gift baskets, cheeses, cigars, oils and vinegars, specialty pastas and condiments, Riedel glassware, and friendly, knowledgeable service.

For everyday grocery needs, KTA Stores (in the Kona Coast Shopping Center, at Palani Rd. and the Queen Kaahumanu Hwy., and in the Keauhou Shopping Village, on Alii Dr.) are always my first choice. Through its Mountain Apple brand, KTA sells hundreds of top-notch local products -- from Kona smoked marlin and Hilo-grown rainbow trout to cookies, breads, jams and jellies, taro chips, and kulolo, the decadently dense taro-coconut steamed pudding -- by dozens of local vendors. The fresh fish department is always an adventure; if anything esoteric is running, such as the flashy red aweoweo, it's sure to be on KTA's counters, along with a large spread of prepared foods for sunset picnics and barbecues.

My other favorite is Kona Natural Foods, in the Crossroads Center (tel. 808/329-2296). It's been upgraded from a health-food store to a full-on healthful supermarket. And it's the only full-service health-food store for miles, selling bulk grains and cereals, vitamins, snacks, fresh-fruit smoothies, and sandwiches and salads from its takeout deli. Organic greens, grown in the South Kona area, are a small but strong feature of the produce section.