Hiking

For information on camping and hiking, contact Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, P.O. Box 52, Hawaii National Park, HI 96718 (tel. 808/985-6000; www.nps.gov/havo); Puuhonua O Honaunau National Historical Park, Honaunau, HI 96726 (tel. 808/328-2288; www.nps.gov/puho); the State Division of Forestry and Wildlife, P.O. Box 4849, Hilo, HI 96720 (tel. 808/947-4221; www.hawaii.gov); the State Division of Parks, P.O. Box 936, Hilo, HI 96721 (tel. 808/974-6200; www.hawaii.gov); the County Department of Parks and Recreation, 25 Aupuni St., Hilo, HI 96720 (tel. 808/961-8311; www.hawaii-county.com); or the Hawaii Sierra Club (tel. 808/959-0452; www.hi.sierraclub.org).

Camping equipment is not available for rent on the Big Island. Plan to bring your own or buy it at the Hilo Surplus Store, 148 Mamo St., Hilo (tel. 808/935-6398).

Guided Day Hikes -- A guided day hike is a great way to discover natural Hawaii without having to sleep under a tree to do it. Call the following outfitters ahead of time (before you arrive) for a schedule of trips; they fill up quickly.

A longtime resident of Hawaii, Dr. Hugh Montgomery of Hawaiian Walkways, Honokaa (tel. 800/457-7759 or 808/775-0372; www.hawaiianwalkways.com), formerly named "Tour Operator of the Year" by the Hawaii Ecotourism Association of Hawaii, offers a variety of options, ranging from excursions that skirt the rim of immense valleys to hikes through the clouds on the volcano. Hikes range from $95 to $150 for adults, $75 to $95 for kids. Custom hikes are available for six hikers for $95 per person. Prices include food, beverages, and equipment.

Naturalist and educator Rob Pacheco of Hawaii Forest & Trail, 74-5035-B Queen Kaahumanu Hwy. (behind the Chevron station), Kailua-Kona (tel. 800/464-1993 or 808/331-8505; www.hawaii-forest.com), offers day trips to some of the island's most remote, pristine areas, some of which he has exclusive access to. Rob's fully trained staff narrates the entire trip, offering extensive natural, geological, and cultural commentary (and more than a little humor). Tours are limited to 10 people and are highly personalized to meet the group's interests and abilities. Options include waterfall adventures, rainforest discovery hikes, birding tours, volcanoes, and even an off-road adventure in a 6*6 Pinzgauer Scrambler that allows you to explore hard-to-reach places. Each tour involves 2 to 4 hours of easy-to-moderate walking, over terrain manageable by anyone in average physical condition. Half-day trips, including snacks, beverages, water, and gear, range from $105 to $169 for adults, $85 to $125 for children ages 8 to 12.

Guided Night Hikes -- For an off-the-beaten-track experience, Arnott's Lodge, 98 Apapane Rd., Hilo (tel. 808/969-7097; www.arnottslodge.com), offers a daylong tour of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park, followed by a night lava hike right up to the fiery flow. The 9 1/2-hour tour leaves the lodge at noon and spends most of the afternoon in the park. The lava hike (a 4-hr., somewhat strenuous round-trip hike) takes place as the sun is setting, so you can see the glow of the flow both during and after sunset. The cost is $85.

Waimanu Valley's Muliwai Trail

This difficult 2- to 3-day backpacking adventure -- only for the hardy -- takes you to a hidden valley some call Eden, with virgin waterfalls and pools and spectacular views. The trail, which goes from sea level to 1,350 feet and down to the sea again, takes more than 9 hours to hike in and more than 10 hours to hike out. Be prepared for clouds of bloodthirsty mosquitoes, and look out for wild pigs. If it's raining, forget it: You'll have 13 streams to cross before you reach the rim of Waimanu Valley, and rain means flash floods.

You must get permission to camp in Waimanu Valley from the Division of Forestry and Wildlife, P.O. Box 4849, Hilo, HI 96720-0849 (tel. 808/974-4221; www.state.hi.us/dlnr/dsp/fees). Permits to the nine designated campsites are assigned by number. They're free, but you're limited to a 7-day stay. Facilities are limited to two composting pit toilets. The best water in the valley is from the stream on the western wall, a 15-minute walk up a trail from the beach. All water must be treated before drinking. The water from the Waimanu Stream drains from a swamp, so skip it. Be sure to pack out what you take in.

To get to the trail head, take Hwy. 19 to the turnoff for Honokaa; drive 9 1/2 miles to the Waipio Valley Lookout. Unless you have four-wheel-drive, this is where your hike begins. Walk down the road and wade the Wailoa Stream; then cross the beach and go to the northwest wall. The trail starts here and goes up the valley floor, past a swamp, and into a forest before beginning a series of switchbacks that parallel the coastline. These switchbacks go up and down about 14 gulches. At the ninth gulch, about two-thirds of the way along the trail, is a shelter. After the shelter, the trail descends into Waimanu Valley, which looks like a smaller version of Waipio Valley but without a sign of human intrusion.