Native Hawaiian birds are few -- and dwindling. But Hawaii still offers extraordinary birding for anyone nimble enough to traverse tough, mucky landscape. And the best birding is on the Big Island; birders the world over come here hoping to see three Hawaiian birds, in particular: akiapolaau, a woodpecker wannabe with a war club-like head; nukupuu, an elusive little yellow bird with a curved beak, one of the crown jewels of Hawaiian birding; and alala, the critically endangered Hawaiian crow that's now almost impossible to see in the wild.
Good spots to see native Hawaiian and other birds include the following:
Hawaii Volcanoes National Park -- The best places for accomplished birders to go on their own are the ohia forests of this national park, usually at sunrise or sunset, when the little forest birds seem to be most active. The Hawaiian nene goose can be spotted at the park's Kipuka Nene Campground, a favorite nesting habitat. Geese and pheasants sometimes appear on the Volcano Golf Course in the afternoon.
Hakalau Forest National Wildlife Refuge -- The first national wildlife refuge established solely for forest bird management is on the eastern slope of Mauna Kea above the Hamakua Coast. It's open for birding on Saturday, Sunday, and state holidays, using the public access road only. You must call ahead of time to get the gate combinations of the locked gates and to register. Contact Refuge Manager Richard Wass, Hakalau Forest, 154 Waianuenue Ave., Room 219, Hilo, HI 96720 (tel. 808/933-6915; Richard_Wass@mail.fws.gov).
Hilo Ponds -- Ducks, coots, herons (night and great blue), cattle egrets, and even Canada and snow geese fly into these popular coastal wetlands in Hilo, near the airport. Take Kalanianaole Highway about 3 miles east, past the industrial port facilities to Loko Waka Pond and Waiakea Pond.
Birding Tours -- If you don't know an apapane from a nukupuu, go with someone who does. Contact Hawaii Forest & Trail, 74-5035-B Queen Kaahumanu Hwy. (behind the Chevron Station), Kailua-Kona (tel. 800/464-1993 or 808/331-8505; www.hawaii-forest.com), to sign up for the Rainforest and Dry Forest Adventure tour, led by naturalist Rob Pacheco. On this tour you'll venture into pristine rainforest to see rare and endangered Hawaiian birds. Immersed in this world of giant ferns and crisp mountain air, the guide will also point out Hawaii's unique botany and evolution. This full-day tour costs $155 and includes pickup, midmorning snack with coffee, lunch, beverages, daypacks, binoculars, walking sticks, and rain gear.
