Neighborhoods

The Kona Coast

In & Around Kailua-Kona -- Kailua-Kona's shopping prospects pour out into the streets in a festival atmosphere of T-shirts, trinkets, and dime-a-dozen souvenirs, with Alii Drive at the center of this activity. But the Coconut Grove Market Place, on Alii Drive, across the street from the seawall, has changed that image and added some great new shops around a sand volleyball court. Next door in the Alii Sunset Plaza, next to the Hard Rock Cafe, beaders can make a beeline for Kona Beads (tel. 808/331-2161) to peruse a dizzying collection of beads from all over the world.

Shopping stalwarts in Kona are the Kona Square, across from King Kamehameha's Kona Beach Hotel; the hotel's shopping mall, with close to two dozen shops; and the Kona Inn Shopping Village, on Alii Drive. All include the usual assortment of T-shirt shops. One highlight is Alii Gardens Marketplace at the southern end of Kailua-Kona, a pleasant, tented outdoor marketplace with fresh fruit, flowers, imports, local crafts, and a wonderful selection of orchid plants. There's cheesy stuff there, too, but somehow it's less noticeable outdoors.

The newly opened Kona International Market, 74-5533 Luhia St (near Kaiwi St), in the Old Industrial Area, is a great idea, a series of small open-air shops in a large pavilion with food vendors, similar to Waikiki's International Market. Unfortunately, with just a few exceptions, I am very disappointed in this "market." I searched all the vendors looking for something made in Hawaii, and with very few exceptions (some jewelry), most of the trinkets sold here were not from the Big Island, and not even from Hawaii, and prices were not that attractive. However, a major exception is Emma's Flowers (tel. 808/329-7746), a great place for leis and just-cut tropical flowers, at reasonable prices.

Art Appreciation -- The finest art on the Kona Coast hangs in, of all places, a bank. Award-winning First Hawaiian Bank, 74-5593 Palani Rd. (tel. 808/329-2461), has art lovers making special trips to view Hiroki Morinoue's mural, John Buck's prints, Chiu Leong's ceramic sculpture, Franco Salmoiraghi's photographs, Setsuko Morinoue's abstract fiber wall piece, and other works that were incorporated as part of the bank's design. Artists Yvonne Cheng and Sharon Carter Smith, whose works are included, assembled this exhibition, a sterling example of corporate sponsorship of the arts.

Kailua Village Artists Gallery -- A co-op of four dozen Hawaii island artists, plus a few guest artists, display their works in various media: watercolors, paintings, prints, hand-blown and blasted glass, and photography. Books, pottery, and an attractive assortment of greeting cards are among the lower-priced items. In King Kamehameha's Kona Beach Hotel, 75-5660 Palani Rd. (tel. 808/329-6653) and 78-6740 Alii Dr. (tel. 808/324-7060).

Upcountry Kona: Holualoa -- Charming Holualoa, 1,400 feet and 10 minutes above Kailua-Kona at the top of Hualalai Road, is a place for strong espresso, leisurely gallery hopping, and nostalgic explorations across several cultural and time zones. One narrow road takes you across generations and cultures.

Paul's Place is Holualoa's only all-purpose general store, a time warp tucked between frame shops, galleries, and studios.

Prominent Holualoa artists include the jewelry maker/sculptor Sam Rosen, who years ago set the pace for found-object art and today makes beautiful pieces at the rear of Chestnut Gallery; the furniture maker and wood sculptor Gerald Ben; the printmaker Nora Yamanoha; the glass artist Wilfred Yamazawa; the sculptor Cal Hashimoto; and Hiroki and Setsuko Morinoue of Studio 7 gallery. All galleries listed are on the main street, Mamalahoa Highway, and all are within walking distance of each other.

South Kona -- In Kealakekua, the Kamigaki Market, on Highway 11, also called Mamalahoa Highway, is a reliable source of food items, especially for regional specialties such as macadamia nuts and Kona coffee.

In Honaunau, farther south, keep an eye out for the Bong Brothers Store, on Highway 11, and its eye-catching selections of fresh local fruit -- from cherimoya (in season) to star fruit and white Sugarloaf pineapples. The Bongs are known for their deli items, produce, and Kona coffee fresh from their own roasting room, but I think their black, very hip Bong Brothers and Bong Sistah T-shirts are the find of the region. The juice bar offers homemade soups and smoothies made with fresh local fruit.

In the town of Captain Cook, look for the big BANANA BREAD sign (you can't miss it) across the street from the fire station on Highway 11, and you'll come across the Captain Cook Baking Company, which bakes excellent banana bread with macadamia nuts, under the "Auntie Helen's" label. The bread is made with Big Island bananas and macadamia-nut honey, and baked right there in the kitchen. This bakery-sandwich shop also sells Lilikoi Gold passion butter, cheesecake brownies, and submarine sandwiches on its own house-made breads.

Farmers Market, Fruit Stands & Espresso Bar -- South Kona, one of the best growing regions on the Big Island, has a weekly Farmers Market every Saturday from 8am to noon at the Keauhou Shopping Village parking lot, near Ace Hardware. It's a true farmers market, selling only produce grown on the Big Island. Another great vegetable and fruit stand down south is the South Kona Fruit Stand, 84-4770 Mamalahoa Hwy., Captain Cook (tel. 808/328-8547), which sells some of the most unusual tropical produce from the Big Island. Way down south, the Kau Tropical Espresso Bar and Organic Fruitstand (tel. 808/929-8785) has not only organic fruit, but also locally grown, organic coffee to go, or take a moment and "talk story" with Elizabeth or Barney, who can tell you about the fruits, vegetables, and coffee of the Big Island.

The Kohala Coast

Shops on the Kohala Coast are concentrated in and around the resorts, listed below.

Hilton Waikoloa Village -- Among the hotel's shops, Sandal Tree carries footwear with style and kick: Italian sandals at non-Italian prices, designer pumps, and other footwear to carry you from dockside to dance floor.

Kings' Shops -- These stores are located at the entrance to Waikoloa Resort. A recent find here is Walking in Paradise (tel. 808/886-2600). The footwear -- much of it made in France (Mephisto, Arche) -- can be expensive, but it's worthwhile for anyone seeking comfort while exploring the harsh lava terrain of this island or the pedestrian culture of Kailua's Alii Drive. Toward the mauka (mountainside) end is Noa Noa, filled with exotic artifacts from Java and Borneo, and tropical clothing for easygoing life on the Pacific Rim. At Under the Koa Tree, some of the island's finest artists display their prints, woodcrafts, and paintings. For snacks, ice, sunscreen, wine, postcards, newspapers, and everyday essentials, there's the Whalers General Store, and for dining on the run, a small Food Court with pizza, plate lunches, and the Wild Boar Juice & Java bar for fresh-pressed carrot/ginger juice or a steaming cup of brew.

As we went to press, under construction was the $95-million Queens' MarketPlace (tel. 808/886-8811; www.waikoloabeachresort.com), located across the street from the Kings' Shops, with a range of shops from Giggles, Island Pearls, Local Motion to Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, Island Gourmet Markets, and Starbucks.

Hualalai Resort -- Ka'upulehu Store, in the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, is a perfect blend of high quality and cultural integrity. Located within the award-winning Ka'upulehu Cultural Center, the store carries items made in Hawaii: handmade paper, hand-painted silks, seed leis, greeting cards, koa bowls, wreaths, John Kelly prints, and a selection of Hawaii-themed books. Hualalai Sports Club and Spa, in the same resort, has a winning retail section of beauty, aromatherapy, and treatment products, including Hana Nai'a Aromatherapy Products. The products include mango and jasmine perfumes, Bulgarian rose water, and herbal lotions and potions.

Mauna Lani Resort -- The recently opened The Shops at Mauna Lani is a high-end cluster of well-known name stores and a sprinkle of local, homegrown places such as terrific eateries Kenichi and Dara's Authentic Thai Cuisine. Shops include Lahaina Galleries, Caché, Kohala Goldsmith, Black Perl Gallery, Tori Richards, A'ama Surf and Sport, and The Market at Mauna Lani. Chain restaurants include Ruth's Chris Steak House, Tommy Bahama, and Starbucks.

Waimea

Waimea is lei country as well as the island's breadbasket, so look for protea, vegetables, vine-ripened tomatoes, and tuberose stalks here at reasonable prices. Mainstays include Honopua Farm and Hufford's Farm, side by side, selling freshly cut flowers and organic vegetables.

Small and sublime, the Waimea Farmers Market, Highway 19, at mile marker 55 on the Hamakua side of Waimea town (on the lawn in front of the Department of Hawaiian Home Lands, West Hawaii office), draws a loyal crowd from 7am to noon on Saturday.

At the other end of Waimea, the Parker School Farmers Market, held Saturday from 7:30am to noon, is smaller and more subdued, but with choice items as well. The Kalopa macadamia nuts are the sweetest and tastiest I've ever had. Hilo's wonderful Dan De Luz Woods has a branch at 64-1013 Mamalahoa Hwy., in front of the True Value hardware store.

Other shops in Waimea range from the small roadside storefronts lining Highway 19 and Highway 190, which intersect in the middle of town, to complexes such as Waimea Center, where you'll find the trusty old KTA Super Store, the one-stop shop for all your basic necessities, plus a glorious profusion of interesting local foods. Across the street, with its upscale galleries and shops, Parker Square will likely be your most rewarding stop.

Honokaa

Mamane Street Bakery, on the main drag (45-3625 Mamane St.; tel. 808/775-9478), will fill all your coffee-shop needs. Fresh-baked breads, pies, and pastries (including melt-in-your-mouth Danishes) are served with good coffee in a tiny cafe lined with old photographs.

Hilo

Shopping in Hilo is centered on the Kaiko'o Hilo Mall, 777 Kilauea Ave., near the state and county buildings; the Prince Kuhio Shopping Plaza, 111 E. Puainako, just off Highway 11 on the road north to Volcano, where you'll find a supermarket, drugstore, Macy's, and other standards; the Bayfront area downtown, where the hippest new businesses have taken up residence in the historic buildings lining Kamehameha Avenue; and the new Waiakea Plaza, where the big-box retailers (Ross, Office Max, Borders, Wal-Mart) have moved in. For practical needs, there's a KTA Super Store at 323 Keawe St. and another at 50 E. Puainako St.

Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Studio Visits -- The airy Volcano studio/showroom of Phan Barker (tel. 808/985-8636), an international artist, is a mountain idyll and splendid backdrop for her art, which includes batik paintings on silk, acrylic painting on wood, oil on paper, dye on paper, and mixed-media sculptures. Her work has been exhibited in galleries and museums ranging from the Smithsonian to Saigon. In addition to studio visits (by appointment only), she also offers beginner classes in silk painting and drawing.

Adding to the vitality of the Volcano arts environment are the studio visits offered by the Volcano Village Art Studios. Several respected artists in various media open their studios to the public by appointment. Artists in the hui include Ira Ono (tel. 808/967-7261), who makes masks, water containers, fountains, paste-paper journals, garden vessels, and goddesses out of clay and found objects; Pam Barton (tel. 808/967-7247), who transforms vines, leaves, roots, bark, and tree sheddings into stunning fiber sculptures and vessels, from baskets to handmade paper and books; raku and jewelry artist Zeke Israel (tel. 808/965-8820); and sculptor Randy Takaki (tel. 808/985-8756), who works in wood, metal, and ceramics.