Neighborhoods

In & Around Kailua-Kona

Kailua-Kona's shopping prospects pour out into the streets in a festival atmosphere of T-shirts, trinkets, and dime-a-dozen souvenirs, with Alii Drive at the center of this activity. But the Coconut Grove Market Place, on Alii Drive, across the street from the seawall, has changed that image and added some great new shops around a sand volleyball court. Next door in the Alii Sunset Plaza, next to the Hard Rock Cafe, beaders can make a beeline for Kona Beads (tel. 808/331-2161) to peruse a dizzying collection of beads from all over the world.

Shopping stalwarts in Kona are the Kona Square, across from King Kamehameha's Kona Beach Hotel; the hotel's shopping mall, with close to two dozen shops; and the Kona Inn Shopping Village, on Alii Drive. All include the usual assortment of T-shirt shops. One highlight is Alii Gardens Marketplace at the southern end of Kailua-Kona, a pleasant, tented outdoor marketplace with fresh fruit, flowers, imports, local crafts, and a wonderful selection of orchid plants. There's cheesy stuff here, too, but somehow it's less noticeable outdoors.

The newly opened Kona International Market, 74-5533 Luhia St. (near Kaiwi St.), in the Old Industrial Area, is a great idea, a series of small open-air shops in a large pavilion with food vendors, similar to Waikiki's International Market. Unfortunately, with just a few exceptions, I find this "market" disappointing. I searched all the vendors looking for something made in Hawaii, and with very few exceptions (some jewelry), most of the trinkets sold here were not from the Big Island, and not even from Hawaii, and prices were not that attractive. A major exception is Emma's Flowers (tel. 808/329-7746), a great place for leis and just-cut tropical flowers, at reasonable prices.

Art Appreciation -- The finest art on the Kona Coast hangs in, of all places, a bank. Award-winning First Hawaiian Bank, 74-5593 Palani Rd. (tel. 808/329-2461), has art lovers making special trips to view Hiroki Morinoue's mural, John Buck's prints, Chiu Leong's ceramic sculpture, Franco Salmoiraghi's photographs, Setsuko Morinoue's abstract fiber wall piece, and other works that were incorporated as part of the bank's design. Artists Yvonne Cheng and Sharon Carter Smith, whose works are included, assembled this exhibition, a sterling example of corporate sponsorship of the arts.

Edibles & Everyday Things -- The Big Island's green markets are notable for the quality of produce and the abundance of Island specialties at better-than-usual prices. Look for the cheerful green kiosks of the Alii Gardens Marketplace, 75-6129 Alii Dr. (at the south end), where local farmers and artists set up their wares daily from 8am to 5pm. This is not your garden-variety marketplace; some vendors are permanent, some drive over from Hilo, and the owners have planted shade trees and foliage to make the 5-acre plot a Kona landmark. There are 40 to 50 vendors on any given day, selling jewelry, woodcrafts, produce, macadamia nuts, orchids, and -- my favorite -- the fresh juices of Kay Reeves, owner of Wau, who gets up before dawn to make her sensational lilikoi and lime juices. Kona Blue Sky Coffee is also here, as is Lynn Cappell, a fine painter of island landscapes, and Laura de Rosa's sensational A'ala Dreams lotions and oils.

Java junkies jump-start their day at Island Lava Java (tel. 808/327-2161), the hot new magnet for coffee lovers at the Coconut Grove Market Place, on Alii Drive. At the other end of Kailua-Kona, in the new New Industrial Area, between Costco and Home Depot, the handmade candies of the Kailua Candy Company, 73-5612 Kauhola St. (tel. 808/329-2522, or 800/622-2462 for orders), also beckon, especially the macadamia-nut clusters with ground ginger or the legendary macadamia-nut honu (turtle). Other products include truffles, pure Kona coffee, shortbread cookies, toffee, T-shirts, mugs, mustards, and other gift items.

Kona Wine Market, in the King Kamehameha Mall (tel. 808/329-9400), has a noteworthy selection, including some esoteric vintages, at prices you'll love. This is a wine lover's store, with selections from California, Europe, and points beyond, as well as gift baskets, cheeses, cigars, oils and vinegars, specialty pastas and condiments, Riedel glassware, and friendly, knowledgeable service.

For everyday grocery needs, KTA Super Stores (in the Kona Coast Shopping Center, at Palani Rd. and the Queen Kaahumanu Hwy., and in the Keauhou Shopping Center, on Alii Dr.) are always my first choice. Through its Mountain Apple brand, KTA sells hundreds of top-notch local products -- from Kona smoked marlin and Hilo-grown rainbow trout to cookies, breads, jams and jellies, taro chips, and kulolo, the decadently dense taro-coconut steamed pudding -- by dozens of local vendors. The fresh-fish department is always an adventure; if anything esoteric is running, such as the flashy red aweoweo, it's sure to be on KTA's counters, along with a large spread of prepared foods for sunset picnics and barbecues.

My other favorite is Kona Natural Foods, at the Crossroads Shopping Center, 75-1027 Henry St. (tel. 808/329-2296). It's been upgraded from a health-food store to a full-on healthful supermarket. And it's the only full-service health-food store for miles, selling bulk grains and cereals, vitamins, snacks, fresh-fruit smoothies, and sandwiches and salads from its takeout deli. Organic greens, grown in the South Kona area, are a small but strong feature of the produce section.

Upcountry Kona: Holualoa

Charming Holualoa, 1,400 feet and 10 minutes above Kailua-Kona at the top of Hualalai Road, is a place for strong espresso, leisurely gallery hopping, and nostalgic explorations across several cultural and time zones. One narrow road takes you across generations and cultures. Paul's Place is Holualoa's only all-purpose general store, a time warp tucked between frame shops, galleries, and studios.

Prominent Holualoa artists include the jewelry maker/sculptor Sam Rosen, who years ago set the pace for found-object art and today makes beautiful pieces at the rear of Chestnut Gallery; the furniture maker and wood sculptor Gerald Ben; the printmaker Nora Yamanoha; the glass artist Wilfred Yamazawa; the sculptor Cal Hashimoto; and Hiroki and Setsuko Morinoue of Studio 7 gallery. All galleries listed are on the main street, Mamalahoa Highway, and all are within walking distance of one another.

South Kona

In Kealakekua, the Kamigaki Market, on Hwy. 11 (Mamalahoa Hwy.), is a reliable source of food items, especially for regional specialties such as macadamia nuts and Kona coffee.

In Honaunau, farther south, keep an eye out for the Bong Brothers Store, on Hwy. 11 between mile markers 103 and 104 (www.bongbrothers.com), and its eye-catching selections of fresh local fruit -- from cherimoya (in season) to star fruit and white Sugarloaf pineapples. The Bongs are known for their deli items, produce, and Kona coffee fresh from their own roasting room, but I think their black, very hip Bong Brothers and Bong Sistah T-shirts are the find of the region. The juice bar offers homemade soups and smoothies made with fresh local fruit.

In the town of Captain Cook, look for the big BANANA BREAD sign (you can't miss it) across the street from the fire station on Hwy. 11, and you'll come across the Captain Cook Baking Company, which bakes excellent banana bread with macadamia nuts, under the Auntie Helen's label. The bread is made with Big Island bananas and macadamia-nut honey, and baked right here in the kitchen. This bakery/sandwich shop also sells Lilikoi Gold passion butter, cheesecake brownies, and submarine sandwiches on its own house-made breads.

Farmers Market, Fruit Stands & Espresso Bar -- South Kona, one of the best growing regions on the Big Island, has a weekly Farmers Market every Saturday from 8am to noon at the Keauhou Shopping Center parking lot, near Ace Hardware. It's a true farmers market, selling only produce grown on the Big Island. Another great vegetable and fruit stand down south is the South Kona Fruit Stand, 84-4770 Mamalahoa Hwy., Captain Cook (tel. 808/328-8547), which sells some of the most unusual tropical produce from the Big Island. Way down south, the Kau Tropical Espresso Bar & Organic Fruitstand (tel. 808/929-8785) has not only organic fruit, but also locally grown, organic coffee to go. Take a moment and "talk story" with Elizabeth or Barney, who can tell you about the fruits, vegetables, and coffee of the Big Island.

Kohala Coast

Most Kohala Coast shops are concentrated in and around the resorts, listed below.

Hilton Waikoloa Village -- Among the hotel's shops, Sandal Tree carries footwear with style and kick: Italian sandals at non-Italian prices, designer pumps, and other footwear to carry you from dockside to dance floor.

Kings' Shops -- These stores are located at the entrance to the Waikoloa Beach Resort. A recent find here is Walking in Paradise (tel. 808/886-2600). The footwear -- much of it made in France (Mephisto, Arche) -- can be expensive, but it's worthwhile for anyone seeking comfort while exploring the harsh lava terrain of this island or the pedestrian culture of Kailua-Kona's Alii Drive. Toward the mauka (mountainside) end is Noa Noa, filled with exotic artifacts from Java and Borneo, plus tropical clothing for easygoing life on the Pacific Rim. At Under the Koa Tree, some of the island's finest artists display their prints, woodcrafts, and paintings. For snacks, ice, sunscreen, wine, postcards, newspapers, and everyday essentials, there's the Whalers General Store, and for dining on the run, a small food court with pizza, plate lunches, and the Wild Boar Juice & Java bar for fresh-pressed carrot/ginger juice or a steaming cup of brew.

Queens' Marketplace -- The recently opened Queens' MarketPlace, located across the street from the Kings' Shops, offers a range of shops from Giggles, Lids, and Local Motion to eateries like Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar, Charley's Thai Cuisine, Queens' Deli, and Starbucks.

Hualalai Resort -- The Kaupulehu Store, in the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai, is a perfect blend of high quality and cultural integrity. Located within the award-winning Kaupulehu Cultural Center, the store carries items made in Hawaii: handmade paper, hand-painted silks, seed leis, greeting cards, koa bowls, wreaths, John Kelly prints, and a selection of Hawaii-themed books. The Hualalai Sports Club & Spa, in the same resort, has a winning retail section of beauty and treatment products, including Hana Naia aromatherapy oils. The selection include mango and jasmine perfumes, Bulgarian rose water, and herbal lotions and potions.

Mauna Lani Resort -- The recently opened Shops at Mauna Lani is a high-end cluster of well-known name stores and a sprinkling of local, homegrown places such as terrific restaurants Kenichi Pacific and Dara's Authentic Thai Cuisine. Shops include Lahaina Galleries, Caché, Kohala Goldsmiths, Tori Richard, 'A'ama Surf & Sport, and the Market at Mauna Lani. Chain eateries include Ruth's Chris Steak House, Tommy Bahama's Tropical Cafe, and Starbucks.

Waimea

Waimea is lei country as well as the island's breadbasket, so look for protea, vegetables, vine-ripened tomatoes, and tuberose stalks here at reasonable prices. Mainstays include Honopua Farm and Hufford's Farm, side by side, selling freshly cut flowers and organic vegetables.

Small and sublime, the Waimea Farmers Market, Hwy. 19, at mile marker 55 on the Hamakua side of Waimea town (on the lawn in front of the Department of Hawaiian Home Lands, West Hawaii office), draws a loyal crowd from 7am to noon on Saturday. At the other end of Waimea, the Parker School Farmers Market, held Saturday from 7:30am to noon, is smaller and more subdued, but with choice items as well. The Kalopa macadamia nuts are the sweetest and tastiest I've ever had.

Hilo's wonderful Dan De Luz Woods has a branch at 64-1013 Mamalahoa Hwy., in front of the True Value hardware store. Other shops in Waimea range from the small roadside storefronts lining Hwy. 19 and Hwy. 190, which intersect in the middle of town, to complexes such as the Waimea Center, where you'll find the trusty old KTA Super Store, the one-stop shop for all your basic necessities, plus a glorious profusion of interesting local foods. Across the street, with its upscale galleries and shops, Parker Square will likely be your most rewarding stop.

Honokaa

Mamane Street Bakery, on the main drag at 45-3625 Mamane St. (tel. 808/775-9478), will fill all your coffee-shop needs. Fresh-baked breads, pies, and pastries (including melt-in-your-mouth Danishes) are served with good coffee in a tiny cafe lined with old photographs.

Hilo

Shopping in Hilo is centered on the Kaikoo Mall, 777 Kilauea Ave., near the state and county buildings; the Prince Kuhio Plaza, 111 E. Puainako St., just off Hwy. 11 on the road north to Volcano, where you'll find a supermarket, drugstore, Macy's, and other standards; the Bayfront area downtown, where the hippest new businesses have taken up residence in the historic buildings lining Kamehameha Avenue; and the new Waiakea Plaza, where the big-box retailers (Ross, OfficeMax, Borders, Wal-Mart) have moved in. For practical needs, there's a KTA Super Store at 323 Keawe St. and another at 50 E. Puainako St.

A Special Arts Center & Gallery -- Part gallery, part retail store, and part consortium of the arts, the East Hawaii Cultural Center, 141 Kalakaua St., across from Kalakaua Park (tel. 808/961-5711; www.ehcc.org), is run by volunteers in the visual and performing arts. Keep it in mind for gifts of Hawaii, or if you have any questions regarding the Hawaii Concert Society, Hilo Community Players, Big Island Dance Council, or Big Island Art Guild. The art gallery and gift shop exhibit locally made cards, jewelry, books, sculptures, and wood objects, including museum-quality works.