Frommer's Review
Set within five rooms of what was originally built in the 19th century as a warehouse, this restaurant takes its name from the gilded onion-shaped domes of the Russian Orthodox Uspenski Cathedral, which rises majestically a short distance away (Sipuli translates as "onion"). While renovating its premises for its new role as a restaurant, a team of architects thoughtfully added a skylight within the upstairs dining room that provides an upward angle of the cathedral. This, coupled with red brick walls, intricate paneling, and thick beams, creates coziness and charm.
Don't assume that the amiably battered street-level bistro is all that there is to this restaurant. Feel free to explore the upstairs dining rooms that showcase a more intricate, and more expensive, series of dishes than those offered within the street-level bar, where simple lunches are served. Upon every visit we fall under the bewitching spell of the chef, who is an expert at creating robust flavors. He always uses the finest of ingredients from stream and field, and Finnish products when available, as seen in his smoked filet of pike-perch served with a salmon mousse and reindeer meat that has been carefully butchered and shaped as noisettes.
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