G. W. Sundmans

Frommer's Review

We like this place more than Chez Dominique. The elegant setting is a restored Empire-style mansion overlooking the harbor, a few steps from Market Square. Tiled stoves and paintings on the ceiling evoke Finland of the 19th century. The main restaurant, which is divided into five rooms, lies on the second floor. (At street level within the same building is the also-recommended, and considerably less expensive, Sundman Krog.) Chef Jarmo Vähä-Savo and his staff prepare light, contemporary fare, using the best raw materials available. There's also a celebratory feeling to the cuisine, as you enjoy such dishes as fried sweetbreads with asparagus and pickled chanterelles, or foie gras with a compote of figs. One of the fixed-price offerings, the Menu Skandinavia, features such dishes as sugar-cured salmon with fennel, risotto with chanterelles and local cheese, and apple pie with cardamom ice cream.

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