Visiting Le Corbusier's Chandigarh
Fans of the father of modernism, Le Corbusier, will appreciate the form and functionality of Chandigarh. When Punjab was divided after Partition, Lahore went to Pakistan, leaving the state without a capital; Chandigarh was envisioned as the new headquarters. When Punjab was once again divided into smaller states, the city became a Union Territory serving as the administrative capital for both Punjab and Haryana. Le Corbusier is largely responsible for designing the mesh of rectangular units, or "sectors," into which the city is divided. Characterized by exposed brickwork, boulder stone masonry, broad boulevards, large landscaped parks with abundant trees, and quadrants of tidy, self-sufficient neighborhoods made up of buildings with louvered screens (brise-soleil) and unfinished concrete surfaces, Le Corbusier's city doesn't quite function as the living organism it's intended to be. Urban decay and waste have crept in, but architecture buffs will find Le Corbusier's structural contributions intriguing. Architectural attractions in Chandigarh include the Capitol Complex (Sector 1), where the geometrical concrete buildings of the Legislative Assembly, High Court, and Secretariat represent structural innovation. At the southern end of the complex piazza, the Vidhan Sabha (Legislative Assembly) building is capped by a startling cupola, a pyramidal tower, and a cuboid tower, while within the portico is a bright Cubist mural by Le Corbusier himself. Also within the complex is the Open Hand Monument, a giant metal hand standing 26m (85 ft.) high that is able to rotate in the wind. Symbolizing the give-and-take of ideas, the hand has become the city's official emblem. Technically, tours of the complex start from the reception area, but these half-hourly episodes don't always materialize; check with someone from the Chandigarh Industrial & Tourism Development Corporation (CITCO) (tel. 0172/270-4761 or -4356) in advance. Locals go to walk, jog, and relax in the 8km-long (5-mile) linear park known as Leisure Valley. In Sector 16, the Rose Garden is the largest of its kind in Asia. In Sector 10, the Sculpture Park adjoining the Cultural Complex is worth exploring. Within the Complex, the Art and Picture Gallery (Tues-Sun 9:30am-5pm) includes Modernist works. If you'd like to deepen your knowledge of Chandigarh's planning and construction, visit the City Museum (Sector 10), where exhibits document the realization of the city.
Chandigarh's highlight is the Rock Garden of Nek Chand, a surreal fantasyland created by "outsider artist" Nek Chand -- a road inspector -- from rocks, concrete, and urban rubbish. Set on 8 hectares (20 acres) of wooded landscape, the "garden" comprises a series of mazelike archways, tunnels, pavilions, waterfalls, and bridges, with passages leading from one open-air gallery to another. Each gallery is occupied by unusual characters, figures, and creatures fashioned from an unbelievable array of materials Chand started collecting in 1958; almost half a century later, the garden continues to grow. If the artist is in residence, he'll be happy to chat with you about his project.
Chandigarh can be visited en route between Amritsar and Shimla, or directly from Delhi by train. The best connections between Delhi and Chandigarh are several daily Shatabdi Express trains or the Himalayan Queen. From Amritsar, choose the Paschim Express, a section of which also links Chandigarh with Kalka, starting point for the "toy train" to Shimla. The railway station (tel. 0172/265-3131, 0172/264-1651, -1131, or -1132) is in Sector 17, around 8km (5 miles) from the city center. For railway inquiries, call the city reservation center (tel. 0172/270-8573; Mon-Sat 8am-8pm, Sun 8am-2pm). Chandigarh Tourism (tel. 0172/270-3839 or 0172/505-5462) has offices at the airport and at the railway station. If you decide to spend the night, book into the newly opened Taj (Block No. 9, Sector 17-A; tel. 0172/651-3000), by far the best accommodation in the city. If you're able to make your visit to Chandigarh a day trip, Fort Nalagarh (www.caravantraveltalk.com/nalagarh-fort.htm) lies 60km (37 miles) away and offers doubles from Rs 2,700 ($66/£33) onward. Built in 1421, this heritage property, surrounded by sprawling lawns, is eccentric but a great improvement on anything in Chandigarh itself.
