Okonomi-Mura

Frommer's Review

Although the people of Osaka claim to have made okonomiyaki popular among the masses, the people of Hiroshima claim to have made it an art. Okonomiyaki is a kind of Japanese pancake filled with cabbage, meat, and other fillings. Whereas in Osaka the ingredients are mixed together, in Hiroshima each layer is prepared separately, which means the chefs have to be quite skilled at keeping the entire thing together. This is the best place in town to witness these short-order cooks at their trade, although the building doesn't look as though it contains restaurants. Its name means "okonomiyaki village," and that's what it is -- floors of individual stalls, dishing out okonomiyaki (the food still remains a dish for the masses). All okonomiyaki stalls offer basically the same menu -- sit down at one of the counters and watch how the chef first spreads pancake mix on a hot griddle; follows it with a layer of cabbage, bean sprouts, and bacon; and then adds an egg on top. If you want, you can have yours with udon (thick wheat noodles) or soba (thin buckwheat noodles). The portion sizes are enormous; this is one of Hiroshima's most beloved establishments.

Wander through the area and stop at a stall that catches your fancy. Or, for a specific recommendation, try Chii-chan (tel. 082/249-8102), on the second floor. It serves food until midnight (closed on Tues) and has an English-language menu. Chii-chan and his female staff sell between 200 and 500 okonomiyaki a day.

Note: This information was accurate when it was published, but can change without notice. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.

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