Side Trips

Cat Tien National Park (Vuon Quoc Gia Cat Tien)

145km (90 miles) N of Ho Chi Minh City; 195km (121 miles) S of Dalat

Covering a massive area of more than 70,000 hectares (173,000 acres) shared by three provinces -- Lam Dong, Binh Phuoc, and Dong Nai -- the Cat Tien National Park was first established in 1978, and later enlarged, nearly doubled, in 1992. It's one of the top bird and game spotting preserves in the region, important not only as one of the last standing evergreen and semi-evergreen old-growth forests in the south of Vietnam, but as a habitat for some of the region's most endangered species, particularly the Javanese Rhinoceros. Once ranging widely throughout Southeast Asia, the rhinos were thought completely extinct until a few were spotted in 1999 by tripwire cameras in the park. The sad fact is that these are the last few of a nearly extinct breed, but part of the park's importance is to create the right conditions of wide grasslands as well as damp swampy wallows so that the rhinos will see resurgence in numbers. Other rare animals -- including tigers, sun bears, and Asian wild dogs -- are known to range freely, and the park has been quite successful in growing a population of the threatened Siamese crocodile. You're unlikely to see anything too rare, but even the shortest walk in the dense forest or along the park access road means sightings of squirrels and monkeys and small game like civets and miniature forest deer.

But the park's birds bring most visitors here. You could meet anyone from eccentric amateur birders to professors of ornithology. The park's canteen, in fact, looks something like a panel in one of Gary Larson's Far Side cartoons, with peculiar scientists comparing eyeglass prescriptions, zoom lenses, and swapping their experiences spying all that is ruby-crested, struts, and shows plumage. The birds are interesting, and the park publishes a comprehensive guide listing the many rare species here. I had the good fortune to see a massive yellow hornbill, as well as various large egrets, heron, and rare water fowl.

The park is sponsored by the folks at the World Wildlife Foundation and, under their tutelage, Vietnamese rangers have reduced the number of people living in the park to a dwindling 9,000 (subsistence farmers are given good incentives to move, and support thereafter) and steps are being taken to eliminate dangerous detritus, the kind that is not just an eyesore but can harm animals, like fishing nets and rope traps. The park now supports over 100 varieties of mammals, 350 species of bird, over 100 types of fish, 79 reptile species, 41 amphibians, 457 butterflies, and thousands of insects. The tally of protected animals is as follows: 18 mammals (including the endangered Indo rhino), 20 birds, 12 reptiles, 1 amphibian, and an orange-necked partridge -- which is endangered -- in the proverbial pear tree. The nice part is, unlike other parks in Vietnam, the animal population density is high and you're sure to spot some critters. You might not see the big rare guys, but certainly you'll spot a few civets, monkeys, and funky birds. You're also sure to see some great specimens of massive, ancient ficus trees on many of the park's hiking trails. The grasslands and wetlands that give life to the park's animals and plants drain into the Dong Nai River, which runs near the park entry.

The park area was also home to ancient Oc Eo settlements from Vietnam's early history, and you can find some information about them, and the ancient Phu Nam dynasty, at the visitor center.

The best news is that Cat Tien National Park is very organized. Just wash up on the shores of the information counter and you can organize tours, borrow bicycles, rent jeeps, and hire guides at very reasonable rates. Start with the night viewing by jeep for 90,000 VND ($6/£3.35) per person, with descending rates per person for larger groups.

Be sure to visit Bai Sau, otherwise known as Crocodile Lake, largest of the park's wetland areas and the best opportunity for seeing larger game. (I saw a small herd of Sambar deer, civets and, yes, crocodile eyes glowing on the lake at night.) The lake is 10km (6 1/4 miles) from the park office and the lakeside ranger station is a stunning 5km (3 miles) forest walk. You must hire a guide for the trip. You can overnight at the lake for the best chance to see wildlife at night, but the experience is very basic; imagine an aging Boy Scouts' camp minus any frills.

For further information, contact the park office at Tan Phu District, Dong Nai Province (tel. 061/669-228; fax 061/669-159; cattien_nationalpark@fptnet.com or cattien_nationalpark@yahoo.com).

Getting There

Hiring a car for the one-way trip from either Dalat or Ho Chi Minh is the best option. Expect to pay $60 (£33) to get you to the park gate, but it'll save you some hassle.

The park is located 24km (15 miles) north of Highway 20 between Dalat and Ho Chi Minh (the turnoff to the park is 125km/78 miles from Saigon and 175km/109 miles from Dalat). You can arrange a ride to kilometer 125 from Ho Chi Minh or Dalat, but you'll have to keep an eye out for the turnoff, and remind the driver before you get there. Budget tourist cafe buses also follow these routes daily and are good about dropping you off in the right spot.

The motorbike taxi drivers at the turnoff are some of the hungriest bunch of crocodiles I've ever met, and the sad news is that once you hop off the bus, they have you over a barrel. The bargaining starts at 400,000 VND ($27/£15). These guys are delusional, and persistent, and you're the only game in town. Dig deep for a bit of patience. Sit and have a coffee. Have a laugh. And laugh hard at the price. Locals pay about 40,000 VND ($2.65/£1.50). Anything near that is reasonable. Be ready to make like you're going to walk to the park yourself (they'll follow). I got tired of it and paid 70,000 VND ($4.65/£2.60) and thought I was done with it, but know that from the moment you enter the park, everyone will ask you how much you paid to get there. It is like a badge that defines you, so try to get a good deal (or lie).

Park entrance is 50,000 VND ($3.35/£1.85). Walk 100m (328 ft.) down the road to the free ferry, then to the park information and check-in center, where the very helpful folks will help you sort things out.

Where to Stay & Dine

Accommodations near the park entrance are quite good. A clean, tile room with air-conditioning is just 180,000 VND ($12/£6.65). Cheapest are the little wood and thatch huts for 90,000 VND ($6/£3.35). The entrance area is a cozy little campus, and there is a fun fraternal vibe among the many visitors here, most of whom are avid birders and eager to connect with fellow members of that rare species. Dining at the canteen is reasonable and quite good; they also have a selection of local wines that really gets the conversation flowing. Expect to meet people here and be able to arrange shared tours to the woods together.

One other option is to spend the night out at Bai Sau, Crocodile Lake. Accommodations here are spartan, but they do have running water and toilet facilities. Rooms have no fan and just a hanging mossie net, but the less-than-basic, rustic comforts ensure a good chance to spot rare animals at lakeside in the early morning or at night.