Restaurants

Hoi An is a feast for the stomach as well as the eyes. Local specialties include cao lau (rice noodles with fresh greens, rice crackers, and croutons), white rose dumplings of shrimp in clear rice dough, and large, savory fried won tons. Good, fresh seafood is available everywhere (don't miss the morning market). There are some new high-end options in town alongside some popular standbys, and each of the resorts has its own fine dining . The riverfront road, Bach Dang, has become the de facto "restaurant row," but if you take a stroll down here any time in the day, you're sure to be besieged by some friendly but persistent touts who'll drag you bodily into their restaurants. All the places along Bach Dang are comparable in price and cuisine (fried rice and noodles), and it's sometimes fun to let the restaurant choose you.

Note: If you do eat on Bach Dang, choose a table a bit off the street and say a consistent and calm "No" to the many young Tiger Balm and chewing-gum salesman if you'd like a quiet meal.