Planning a Trip

Information

Information on Hokkaido is available online at www.visit-hokkaido.jp.

Getting There & Getting Around

The fastest way to reach Hokkaido is to fly. Flights from Tokyo's Haneda Airport to Sapporo's New Chitose Airport take about 1 1/2 hours. Although traditional airfare to Sapporo from Tokyo costs ¥30,700 ($256/£128), renegade airline Air Do (tel. 0120-057-333) offers tickets from Tokyo for ¥24,700 ($206/£103) or less. For other destinations, JAL flies from Tokyo to Hakodate for ¥28,800 ($240/£120) on the western side of the island and from Tokyo to Kushiro for ¥35,700 ($296/£148) on the eastern side of the island. JAL also flies from Osaka to Sapporo for ¥37,900 ($316/£158). All airfares go up by about ¥2,000 ($17/£8.50) in peak season, but there are discounts for advance purchase and the off season. Better yet, buy domestic tickets from JAL or ANA in conjunction with international flights to Japan, which must be purchased outside Japan and range from ¥10,000 ($83/£42) to ¥13,650 ($114/£57) per flight.

Travel to Hokkaido by land is generally via the Tohoku Shinkansen bullet train from Ueno or Tokyo Station in Tokyo to Hachinohe in Tohoku, followed by the limited express Hakucho train from Hachinohe all the way to Hakodate on Hokkaido. For centuries, the only way to travel between Honshu and Hokkaido was via a 4-hour ferry ride, but the opening of the Seikan Tunnel in 1988 allowed the entire trip between the islands to be made by train in little more than 2 hours -- more than a fourth of which is in the 55km (34-mile) tunnel. The entire trip from Tokyo to Hakodate (on Hokkaido) via train should take about 6 hours and costs ¥18,750 ($156/£78) for a reserved seat one-way. The trip from Tokyo to Sapporo takes about 9 hours (not including transfers) and costs ¥25,060 ($209/£104) for reserved seating. Your JR Rail Pass is good for all trains.

Public transportation around Hokkaido is by train and bus. In addition to regular bus lines, sightseeing buses link the national parks and major attractions. Although they're more expensive than trains and regular buses, and although commentaries are in Japanese only, they offer unparalleled views of the countryside and usually stop at scenic wonders, albeit sometimes only long enough for the obligatory photo. Keep in mind that bus schedules fluctuate with the seasons and can be infrequent; some lines don't run during snowy winter months. Try to get bus and train schedules before setting out on each leg of your journey. In small towns, everyone knows the local bus schedules, even clerks at front desks. Otherwise, you might find yourself waiting to make a transfer.

JR Hokkaido Passes -- If you plan to travel a lot in Hokkaido and don't have a Japan Rail Pass, consider purchasing one of several special passes issued by Japan Railways that allows unlimited travel on JR trains and buses in Hokkaido. The Hokkaido Rail Pass, for example, works just like the Japan Rail Pass (you must be a foreign tourist visiting Japan) and is valid for travel throughout Hokkaido. The ordinary pass, which can be purchased abroad (at JTB and other authorized travel agencies) or at train stations in Hakodate, Sapporo, and a few other cities in Hokkaido, costs ¥14,000 ($137/£58) for 3 days and ¥18,000 ($150/£75) for 5 days. Alternatively, the JR Hokkaido Free Kippu can be used by anyone (including Japanese and foreigners living in Japan) and can be purchased at any JR rail station. Allowing unlimited travel in Hokkaido, the 7-day pass costs ¥23,400 ($195/£98), but note that it's not valid April 27 to May 6, August 11 to August 15, or December 28 to January 6.

Renting a Car -- Because distances are long and traffic is rather light, Hokkaido is one of the few places in Japan where driving your own car is actually recommended. Because it's expensive, however, it's economical only if there are several of you. Rates for a 1-day rental of a compact car in July or August with unlimited mileage and insurance begin at ¥8,920 ($74/£37) per day, with each additional day costing ¥7,770 ($65/£32); rates run about ¥2,000 ($17/£8.50) cheaper the rest of the year. Car-rental agencies are found throughout Hokkaido, often near train stations as well as at Chitose Airport outside Sapporo and at Kushiro Airport in Kushiro. In Sapporo, Toyota Rent-A-Car (tel. 011/281-0100) is located east of Sapporo Station. JR Eki Rent-A-Car Hokkaido (tel. 011/241-0931), near the east exit of Sapporo Station (their offices are always near a JR station), offers 20% discounts for train fares booked in conjunction with car rentals. For routes and road conditions, go to www.northern-road.jp/navi/eng/index.htm.

A Good Strategy for Seeing Hokkaido -- If you're traveling from Tokyo, your first destination in Hokkaido should be Hakodate, an interesting and convenient 1-night stopover. From there you can board a local train bound for Sapporo, stopping off at Shikotsu-Toya National Park along the way. From Sapporo, two worthwhile destinations include Sounkyo Onsen in Daisetsuzan National Park and Akan National Park. To follow this plan, you'll need at least a week. You can also do this tour in reverse by flying into eastern Hokkaido and taking the train back to Tokyo.