Side Trips

Phetchaburi

Phetchaburi, one of the country's oldest towns, possibly dates from the same period as Ayutthaya and Kanchanaburi, though it is believed to have been first settled during the Dvaravati period. After the rise of the Thai nation, it served as an important royal military city and was home to several princes who were groomed for ascendance to the throne. Phetchaburi's palace and historically significant temples make it an excellent day trip. It is just 1 hour from Hua Hin.

The main attraction is Phra Nakhon Khiri (tel. 03242-8539), a summer palace in the hills overlooking the city. Built in 1858 by King Mongkut (Rama IV), it was intended as not only a summer retreat for the royal family, but for foreign dignitaries as well. Combining Thai, European, and Chinese architectural styles, the palace buildings include guesthouses and a royal Khmer-style chedi, or temple. The Phra Thinang Phetphum Phairot Hall is open for viewing and contains period art and antiques from the household. Once accessible only via a 4km (2 1/2-mile) hike uphill, you'll be happy to hear there's a funicular railway (it's called a "cable car," but that's not an accurate description) to bring you to the top for 40B (US$1/60p). It's open Monday through Friday 8:15am to 5pm and Saturday and Sunday from 8:15am to 5:50pm. Admission is 45B (US$1.30/70p).

Another fascinating sight at Phetchaburi, the Khao Luang Cave, houses more than 170 Buddha images underground. Outside the cave, hundreds of noisy monkeys descend upon the parking lot and food stalls looking for handouts. Sometimes you'll find a guide outside who'll escort you through the caves for a small fee.

Wat Yai Suwannaram is a stunning royal temple built during the Ayutthaya period. The teak ordination hall was moved from Ayutthaya after the second Burmese invasion on the city (don't miss the axe-chop battle scar on the building's carved doors). Inside there are large religious murals featuring Brahmans, hermits, giants, and deities.

Another wat with impressive paintings is Wat Ko Keo Suttharam, also built in the 17th century. These representational murals, painted in the 1730s, even depict some Westerners: There are several panels depicting the arrival in the Ayutthaya court of European courtesans and diplomats (including a Jesuit dressed in Buddhist garb).

Another fabulous temple is Wat Kamphaeng Laeng, originally constructed during the reign of Khmer ruler King Jayavarman VII (1157-1207) as a Hindu shrine. Made of laterite, it was once covered in decorative stucco, some of which still remains. Each of the five prangs (towers) was devoted to a deity -- the center prang to Shiva is done in a classical Khmer style. During the Ayutthaya period, it was converted to a Buddhist temple.

The temples of Phetchaburi are best visited during daylight hours, from early morning until 5pm.

Lastly, the Phra Ram Raja Nivesana, or Ban Puen Palace (tel. 03242-8506; daily 8am-4pm, free admission) is a nice stop. A royal palace built by Rama V, the German-designed grand summer home comes alive with colorful tile work, neoclassical marble columns, and floor motifs. Today it sits on military grounds and is a popular venue for ceremonies and large occasions.

Western Tours, 11 Damnoenkasem Rd. (tel. 03253-3303), has day excursions for 850B (US$24/£13) per person, though any of these sites can be seen on a day trip by rented car.

Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park

Just a 40-minute drive south of Hua Hin, Khao Sam Roi Yot, or the "Mountain of Three Hundred Peaks," is comparatively small in relation to the nation's other parks, but offers great short hikes to panoramic views of the sea. There is abundant wildlife here (seen only if you're lucky). Of the park's two caves, Kaew Cave is the most interesting, housing a sala pavilion that was built in 1890 for King Chulalongkorn. For more information, call the park services at tel. 02561-2919. To arrange a tour, call Western Tours (tel. 03253-3303; 850B/US$24/£13 per person). A half-day trip to the Pala-U waterfall close to the Burmese border (63km/39 miles west of Hua Hin) is another nature trekking option. Nature trails take you through hills and valleys until you end up at the falls. Western Tours does the trip for 950B (US$27£14.60) per person. The driver can stop at the Dole Thailand pineapple factory for a tour and tasting (tel. 03257-1177; daily 9am-4pm; 200B/US$5.70/£3.10 admission), and the Kaew Cave.

Prachuap Khiri Khan

If you've had enough of Thailand's many overdeveloped beach areas, the small town and beaches near Prachuap Khiri Khan (just a 1-hr. drive south of Hua Hin) might just be the answer. Some of the kindest people in Thailand live here, the beaches are lovely and little-used, and the town begs a wander. There is little in the way of fine dining and accommodations, but it is a good stop on the way south to Chumphon.