Planning a Trip

Getting There

By Plane -- Daily afternoon flights (80 min.; to Aeropuerto de Anta, 23km/14 miles north of Huaraz) are now offered from Lima on LC Busre (tel. 01/619-1300; www.lcbusre.com.pe). Flights range from $79 to $99 (£40-£50) one-way.

By Bus -- Traveling by arduous bus from Lima or from other points along the north coast or the northern Andes was, until recently, the only way to get to Huaraz, though travelers now have the more comfortable option of daily flights from Lima. Most of the individual bus company terminals are along Av. Raymondi or Av. Fitzcarrald. For the 7- to 8-hour journey from Lima, major companies offering daily service are CIVA (tel. 01/418-1111; www.civa.com.pe), Cruz del Sur (tel. 01/311-5050; www.cruzdelsur.com.pe), and Móvil Tours (tel. 043/422-555 in Huaraz; www.moviltours.com). Móvil Tours and Transportes Línea (tel. 043/245-181 or 043/261-482; www.transporteslinea.com.pe) are the principal carriers to and from Trujillo (8 hr.).

Safe Bus Travel -- Night bus trips departing Huaraz for Trujillo, Chiclayo, and other cities in northern Peru have earned bad reputations for theft. Some travelers have reported armed thieves boarding long-distance buses and forcibly relieving passengers of their valuables. Perhaps for this reason, the better "executive-level" services don't stop between Lima and their final destination. Be very careful with your belongings on board, even if it means threading your arms through the straps of your carry-on, if you plan to sleep.

Visitor Information

The iPerú tourist office is at Av. Luzuriaga 734 (Pasaje Atusparía, office 1), across from the Plaza de Armas (tel. 043/428-812); it's open Monday to Friday 8am to 1pm and 4 to 7pm. General tourist information is also available during the same hours from the tourist police office between City Hall and the Post Office on Av. Luzuriaga (tel. 043/421-341). For mountaineering and trekking information, though, you're best off consulting the Casa de Guías, Parque Ginebra 28 (tel. 043/421-811). The office is open Monday through Friday from 9am to 6pm, and Saturday from 9am to 1pm. The friendly folks there have up-to-date information on trails, maps, lists of certified guides, and message-board postings for those looking to form trekking and climbing groups. Mostly, though, they're there to set you up with a guide. Basic information on visiting the Huascarán National Park can be obtained from the Parque Nacional Huascarán office, in the Ministerio de Agricultura building on Av. Raymondi (tel. 043/422-086).

Fast Facts -- Most banks are found around the Plaza de Armas and along Av. Luzuriaga. Among those that exchange traveler's checks and cash and have ATMs are Banco de Crédito, Av. Luzuriaga 669 at the corner of Sucre (tel. 043/421-170); Interbank, Sucre 913 (tel. 044/423-015); and Banco Wiese, Sucre 766 (no phone). Money-changers can usually be found hanging around outside banks around the Plaza de Armas.

In an emergency, call tel. 105. For climbing accidents and assistance, including evacuations, contact Unidad de Salvamento de Alta Montaña (High Altitude Rescue), Av. Arias Grazziani s/n, Yungay, at tel. 043/493-333 or 043/493-327; or Casa de Guías, Parque Ginebra 28 (tel. 043/421-811). If you need the police, the tourist police have an office just off the Plaza de Armas (tel. 043/421-341). You can also contact the national police, Larrea y Loredo 720 (tel. 043/421-461). For medical attention, go to Hospital de Apoyo Víctor Ramos Guardia, Av. Luzuriaga s/n (tel. 043/421-290), or Hospital Regional de Huaraz, Av. Luzuriaga s/n (tel. 043/421-321).

There are a number of Internet cabinas dotting the downtown area. Try Avance, Av. Luzuriaga 672, 2nd floor (tel. 043/426-736), which has special deals for repeat visits and is open late.

The Huaraz post office is at Av. Luzuriaga 702, across the street from the Plaza de Armas (tel. 043/421-030). The Telefónica del Perú office is at Bolívar and Sucre, just east of the Plaza de Armas.

Getting Around

The main axis in town is Av. Luzuriaga, which is overrun with tourist agencies, outdoor outfitters, and nearly every strolling traveler who hits Huaraz. The easiest way to get around town is by taking an inexpensive taxi -- the ones incessantly honking at every pedestrian hoping for a fare -- or a colectivo. Myriad bus companies serve the Cordillera Blanca region, including Chavín, Caraz, and Yungay.

By Taxi -- Taxis cruise Av. Luzuriaga in search of travelers day and night. Rides in town cost S/2 (70¢/35p), and cabs can be safely and easily hailed on the street. One operator to call is Radio Taxi (tel. 043/721-482).

By Bus -- Combis service towns in the Callejón de Huaylas around Huaraz: Chavín (4 hr.), Caraz (90 min.), and Yungay (90 min.). Most depart from the Quillcay Bridge on Alameda Fitzcarrald; others leave from Calle Caraz, a half-block east of Fitzcarrald. Fares are inexpensive, usually S/3 to S/10 ($1-$3.30/50p-£1.75).

Tour Operators & Travel Agencies -- Guides and travel agencies are extremely useful, if not downright indispensable, for most adventure sports in the remote and often dangerous mountains. Like Cusco and Iquitos, Huaraz is chock-full of agencies and tour operators. Unfortunately, some of them are less than reliable; others are far worse. It's best to check with fellow tourists (or, before arriving in Huaraz, with the South American Explorers clubs in either Lima or Cusco) to get recent reports about services.