Off the Beaten Track

You've seen Budapest; now its time to get outside of the capital and explore the land of the Magyars. Since the average visitor to Hungary spends less than a week in the country, we've opted to give you a few side trip options from Budapest, rather than a 1-week or 10-day tour of the entire country. The train system is Budapest-centric, so a full Hungarian tour would be difficult anyway; you'd need several weeks, traveling by bus (time-consuming) or by car (dangerous if you're not used to European driving). But trains, though not quite luxurious, are easy and safe, and they usually cost less than 4,000 Ft ($20) round-trip.

This section lists four options for your Hungarian side trip: Szentendre is a charming village and artist colony only 20km from the smog of the capital; Keszthely is at the far end of Lake Balaton and away from the throngs of tourists; Keszthely is a small scenic town, not far from the beaches, and nearby Héviz has lots of recently opened spa-hotels; Pécs is a burgeoning cultural center which has lately been attracting many young travelers; and the Southern Hungarian city of Szeged is another cultural center and Hungary's "spice capital."

Option 1: A Day in Szentendre

After 2 days in Budapest, you might visit Szentendre (pronounced Sen-ten-dreh), an artists' colony just north of Budapest and one of the most visited spots in all of Hungary. Take the HÉV (regional train) from Budapest's Batthyány tér metro for a 45-minute ride.

Visit the Margit Kovács Museum and see a wonderful collection of the late Margit Kovács. Her depictions of peasant life in Hungary are heartwarming. Have a late lunch at the Aranysárkány Vendéglo, and take a walk along the river. Then spend your afternoon exploring the many shops, museums and galleries in town. Fo tér, the main drag, is enticing, but explore all the side streets of this small, manageable town. Try Régimódi for dinner, and stay at the Róz Panzió, which overlooks the Danube. (Reserve both several weeks ahead.)

Option 2: Two Days in Keszthely & Héviz

Keszthely and Héviz are tucked away in a quiet corner of Hungary's very own little "sea," Lake Balaton, almost 200 km (125 miles) from Budapest. The towns sit right in a micro-climate area, with warm summers, clear skies, and beautiful vistas and hills.

From Budapest, take a 3-hour express (gyors) train from Déli Station to Keszthely. Then explore its Festetics Mansion, Carriage Museum, or try the puppet museum, the Babamúzeum. After roaming around Keszthely, have a traditional Hungarian meal, with a traditional Unicum, at the Margaréta Étterem. At night, check out a show at the Balaton Congress Center and Theater, and stay either in a "private room" or at the Danubius Hotel Helikon.

The next day take a bus to Héviz, 8km (5 miles) northeast of Keszthely, and head straight to the Rogner Hotel and Spa Therme. Take a dip in Europe's largest thermal lake, nearby, for a dip, or spend your whole day unwinding at the hotel. Spa treatments include a selection of health cures, sports, wellness or even medical treatment programs.

You might shorten this side trip by heading straight to Héviz, then tour Keszthely a bit and relax in the spa hotel at night.

Option 3: Two Days in Pécs

The popular Pécs is the most culturally vibrant Hungarian city outside of the capital -- warm and arid, with lots of museums, galleries, and a large student population.

Take an early morning Inter City train from Budapest's Déli Station to Pécs, a 2 1/2-hour ride. Visit the Tivadar Csontváry Museum and the Victor Vasarely Museum, institutions that celebrate two of Hungary's most notable artists. The Zsolnay Museum houses a vast collection of vases, plates, cups, figurines, and even ceramic paintings. Then check out the hustle and bustle of the Pécsi Vásár flea market, where you can find traditional Hungarian wares. Head up on the hill for dinner at the Bagolyvár Étterem, where you can enjoy a fine Hungarian wine before checking in at the fun, centrally located Hotel Fönix.

The next morning, have a coffee and cake at the Mecsek Cukrászda before checking out Pécs' houses of worship, the Pécs Cathedral, the Pécs Synagogue, and the largest standing Turkish structure, the Mosque of Pasha Gazi Kassim.

Option 4: Two Days in Szeged

The Southern Hungarian town of Szeged gets a lot of traffic from Romanian and Serbian visitors so it's a diverse city, with lots of students. If you're in Hungary in the summer, come here for the Szeged Summer Festival, which offers rock operas, classical music, ballet and contemporary dance. In July, Thealter is a sort of European "fringe festival" of alternative theater.

From Budapest, take the train from Nyugati Station. Start off with a coffee and pastry at the famous Virág Cukrászda. Then learn about some local history at the Móra Ferenc Museum. Take a walk on the river's edge, then head back to Kárász utca, the main walking street which is usually bustling with students. Have an upscale dinner at Zodiákus or a more casual, boisterous meal at HBH Bajor Sörözo. Try to get a room at the reasonably priced and clean Hotel Matrix, not far from the center of town.

On your second day here, check out the Polish Market (Lengyel Piac) on the Southern edge of town and visit the beautiful and historic Synagogue. Then head for some hearty fish stew at Kiskorösi Halászcsárda.