In Hyderabad, food is as important as life itself, a world-view no doubt inherited from the Nizams, who reveled in culinary intemperance. Hyderabad is known for its dum-style cooking (with its origins in Lucknow): the practice of sealing the pot or dish and gently simmering its ingredients over a slow fire, thereby increasing the absorption of aromatic spices. Lavishly decorated in vibrant blues and distinctively Hyderabadi objets d'art, Dum Pukht (ITC Kakatiya Sheraton & Towers; tel. 040/2340-1032; Rs 400-Rs 1,250/$9.75-$31/£5-£15) is the city's most celebrated upmarket restaurant, and known for its dum-style dishes. (Dum Pukht literally means cooking by locking in steam.) Try the chef's kareli ki nahari, mutton shanks cooked in their own juices and marrow, tinged with cardamom and saffron. Melt-in-the-mouth kakori kebabs prepared from finely minced mutton, green papaya, cloves, and cinnamon are skewered, chargrilled, and eaten with sheermal, saffron-and-milk-infused flaky bread.
One of the best examples of dum-style cooking is biryani, Hyderabad's most time-honored dish, best made with marinated mutton which, together with basmati rice and spices, is prepared in a sealed pot for an aromatic result. Available practically anywhere, it's best enjoyed with a spicy mirch ka salan (chili curry) and yogurt salad; lately, however, most of the restaurants are taking a shortcut and cooking biryani in open cauldrons -- although tasty, it's not quite the same thing. Try Azizia, adjacent the Nampally railway station: It is said to be the home of biryani, and its chefs claim to be descended from the Nizams' master chefs; alternatively try Paradise (Paradise Circle, M.G. Rd.), Café Bahar in Himayatnagar, or Medina, in the Old City. Finish your meal with Hyderabad's famous desserts: khubani ka meetha (apricots and cream) or double ka meetha (bread pudding with cashews and almonds). Another place that serves authentic biryani, this time in an elegant atmosphere, is Firdaus (Taj Krishna, Rd. no. 1, Banjara Hills; tel. 040/6666-2323; Rs 305-Rs 1,275/$7.45-$31/£3.75-£16). Another good meal here is the raan-e-firdaus: tender lamb steak marinated in assorted spices and tandoor grilled. But really, all the meals are fit for a Nizam, especially enjoyed against a backdrop of live ghazal music. Also in Banjara Hills, on Road no. 1, is a three-in-one restaurant: At Fusion 9 you can select food from nine different parts of the world. Deli 9 is famous for its deliciously rich pastries -- after polishing off a few Norwegian pork chops or tenderloin steak, order the must-have Black Magic pastry (tel. 040/6550-6662).
If you're keen to sample more regional Andhra cuisine without forever losing your sense of taste (it is intensely fiery), take a table at Chutney's (tel. 040/2335-8484; Shilpa Arcade Rd. no. 3, Banjara Hills) to sample their pesarattu (spiced mung bean flour pancake) eaten with allam pachadi (ginger pickle). Better still, make your way to the first floor and take your pick of a huge variety of vegetarian dishes from North and South India at their reasonably priced all-you-can-eat daily buffet spread (Rs 140/$3.40/£1.70). Another value-for-money restaurant is Abhiruchi on S.D. Road (040/2789-6565 or -2227). It has superfast service and excellent food for dirt-cheap prices -- along with the thali, order the mutton gongura as a side dish (a spinachlike leaf that grows in Andhra mixed with goat meat).
One of the best buffets in town is at Okra, the 24-hour dining at the new Hyderabad Marriott. Priced at Rs 525 ($13/£6.50), it offers a large variety of Indian, Continental, and traditional fare, but its current claim to fame is the highly unusual Teppannayaki method of making ice cream. Open kitchens, a relaxed atmosphere, and location overlooking the pool make Okra a good choice; with the candles lit in the evening, it's charming.
An absolute find is Finjaan (opposite Mughal Residency Apts., Main Rd. Toli Chowki; tel. 040/2356-1738; www.finjaan.com), the first teahouse to open in Hyderabad in 2006. Brothers Salman and Mohammed Taiyebi are only too happy to educate on all 37 kinds of tea and the health benefits of your particular cuppa. India, China, Thailand, and Africa all meet in a steaming pot at Finjaan (meaning "small cup without handle in which decoction is served").
