To see Hyderabad in a day, first drive to Qutb Shahi Tombs (9:30am-4:30pm; closed Fri), where Hyderabad's dynastic rulers are buried. The tombs, built in grey granite with stucco ornamentation, are an interesting mix of Persian, Pathan, and Hindu styles. Standing at the center of its own garden, Sultan Muhammed Quli Qutb Shah's tomb is considered the most impressive. Built around the same time as his tomb, the mortuary bath (Hamaam) -- where the dead were washed before being laid to rest -- lies at the center of the enclosure. From here, consider walking to Golconda Fort; have your driver show you the route, which is about 2km (1 1/4 miles) and takes you through lively villages where you may even be invited in for a cup of chai and a chat. Allow at least an hour to explore the ruins of the historic citadel, arranging for your driver to pick you up at the entrance.
Next, head to Charminar, a four-sided archway with soaring minarets. It was laid out by Muhammad Quli Qutb Shah as the centerpiece of a great new city when Golconda's disease epidemics forced him to move his seat to the banks of the Musi River. Explore the Old City quarter on foot, heading westward into Laad Bazaar, where double-story houses with tiny wooden shutters line narrow lanes. Wandering through these perpetually congested narrow lanes, you'll encounter numerous burkha-wearing women scanning the stalls for bargains, and you're likely to score a deal on anything from old saris, pearls, bidri (surface ornamentation) work, and silver and gold jewelry to paper kites, henna, turmeric, and cheap china. Lac bangles, made from shellac encrusted with shiny, colorful stones, are a Hyderabadi specialty that you'll find in huge quantities here. It's also where the people of Hyderabad go to buy traditional bridal wear, or Khopdia Joda, consisting of a kurta pajama, choli, and ghunghat.
When you've had your fill of the Old City, the interiors of Salar Jung Museum are a cool diversion, filled with an unprecedented assortment of kitschy collectibles and works of art . Also interesting for antiques-lovers is Purani Haveli, near the Salar Jung Museum, where several Nizams were born and lived. When Nawab Mir Mehboob Ali Khan, the sixth Nizam, lived here, he had a 73m-long (240-ft.) wooden chamber built with 150 huge cupboards (probably the world's largest walk-in closet), to stock his extensive collection of fine clothing and shoes (also called Nizam Jubilee Pavilion; Rs 40/$1/50p; daily 10am-6pm). Alternatively visit the recently opened Chowmohalla Palace, located near Charminar: After 5 years of restoration work, the complex has lovely courtyards and fountains and is now used increasingly for traditional music soirees in Urdu and Persian. Or visit India's second-largest mosque (purportedly the seventh largest in the world): Mecca Masjid (Kishan Prasad Rd., near Charminar) is said to have been built with a few bricks brought from Mecca, and attracts thousands of worshipers during Namaaz, Friday prayers. It's off-limits to non-Muslims during prayers, but visitors are welcome at other times. Leave your shoes with an attendant before making your way through a long room that houses the tombs of the Nizams of the Asaf Jahi dynasty. Non-Muslims cannot enter the prayer hall but can view proceedings through a screen. In Gulzar Hauz is Jami Masjid, Hyderabad's oldest functioning mosque, dating back to 1597.
Round off the day by watching the sun set over Cyberabad from white-marble Birla Mandir (Kalabahad Hill; free admission; daily 6am-noon and 3-9pm). Commissioned by the Birlas, India's foremost industrial magnates, the main temple is dedicated to Lord Venkateshwara, and is pleasantly free of greedy "guides" and the like. Perched on a hilltop, it looks beautiful when lit at night.
If you're here for another day, consider a half-day excursion to the Ramoji Film City (Rs 200/$4.85/£2.45) for an amusing and interesting exposure to the South Indian film industry. It's packed with local star-struck tourists, and you have a good chance of coming face to face with the top actors of the day -- one of their song-and-dance sequence may just be the highlight of the trip. (Check to see what's on by calling tel. 040/2323-5678.) If all you want is to find yourself in a green lung, the best option lies in the middle of the city: The semi-forested KBR Park allows for a pleasant stroll.
